radioguy

Chris, The kit is superb. The wing sections are engineered such that there's no seam on either the leading or trailing edges. That said, be careful when mating the uppers to the lower. If not done properly, you might experience some wing droop. Otherwise, a joy. You might find the antenna through Attach Before Flight. They're a 2 man cottage operation in The Netherlands. If you can't contact them directly, maybe Luchtvaart Hobbyshop has them in stock. They do several variations, though I don't believe the Westjet article is in their range. Wo

Ruben..when will we be able to order these from your site? No pay button available yet. Alan

You can contact ELLEN LEHMANN [ellen.lehmann@authentic-airliner-decals.de], Kurt's wife. She'll give you all the info you might need. Observation..the AA split scimitar winglets are a bit more complicated in their construction being multi-part affairs, as opposed to the parts from Mike at Contrails that are one piece units.. But you can't go wrong with any of Kurt's product.

Judging by their latest releases, Revell may do a 190 only in Embraer house colours. Licensing for airline schemes is becoming cost prohibitive, it seems.

The Xtracolor AC blue is correct. You could coat it with their mica 1 to achieve the pearlescent effect. If you can't get any more Xtracolor (it's getting very tough), any pearlescent clear (Tamiya spray) should do the trick. Alan

Here's a link to your ACE CRJ-200. Note that it's 1/144 scale. Contact Jon Ochoa at 8aDecs and ask if he'd scale them to 1/72 for you. He's a good guy. http://www.8adecs.com/v2/site/cgi-bin/fdecals.pl?opc=show&id=391

LH paint is simple. White on all parts above the demarcation line, and grey on those parts below. So the wing tops would be white, bottoms grey. The "greyish" appearance of the wing top in photos is probably caused by reflection of blue (grey) sky.

Sorry I'm late to this party, guys. The ONLY thing that will allow Gio's decals to conform is heat. No chemical seems to work on any of his product no matter when it was released. Gio/Chris/?? gave me this info early on. I've since been using the hair dryer more & more, no matter who the decal manufacturer is. Lots of water for placement, fair amount of heat for fixation. HTH, Alan

VMF From an earlier post of yours...language difference? Which is yours? As pointed out, CA is cyanoacrylate, or super glue. If you're trying to get the part onto the V2500 facing, you might try scoring the inner part of the PE fan in several places. That should allow it to slip over the thick part. The reason I mentioned heat above is that once you've applied the PE fan and affixed it with a couple dots of CA (super glue), heating with a hair dryer will expand the metal a bit and allow you to tap the fan blades down. The CA should be enough to hold things down..but just in case.

Which PE set are you working with? Extra-Tech? If that's the case, paint the fan face black first. Then, you might try spotting a dab of CA on a couple of points close to the spinner, and lay the fan blade "disc" from the PE sheet over the spinner cone . Do this with a cotton swab. Then hit the whole fan front with a bit of heat (hair dryer time). The PE metal is very thin so you won't need much. As the metal heats, keep pushing it down with the cotton swab or a blunt-ended toothpick. After the blade assembly is in place, dry brush your desired blade color onto it. This will help p

this is my first serious attempt to build model so any input is welcome, including constructive criticism:) Looks as if you've used Bondo to fill the windows..am I correct? It's great stuff as a filler. Just be careful that the surface is totally flush before you commit to final paint. This might mean several applications/sandings of the filler. A quick shot of primer should reveal imperfections. Did you lay a strip of styrene inside the window line prior to filling? Just wondering. I've just started a 320 and a 330. Tried something new (for me) on these. I layed a strip of masking

My idea for the Beluga is to do it up as a triple decker passenger airliner and paint it up in Ryanair colors. Come on, you KNOW they would try it if they could as Ryanair just LOVES to find new ways to cram airplanes full of seats for short haul flights. Jay..I believe O'Leary already investigated the project possibilities. Standing room only on the upper deck, and a 5 EURO upcharge for grab handles. Also, an entire bank of pay toilets on deck 2..non segregated and 3 EURO to use....exact change only please.

Nice job, Rich. You're a braver man than I when it comes to the nose gear. I always leave mine off till the kit is ready to stand on its own, as in post decal application. It might seem to be impossible to get the gear to slip into place once the fuselage has been closed, but I've had no issues with my method in over 30 319/320/321 kits built. Alan

I just picked up on this thread. Beautiful job, Jelle. @ Living Legend...another method you might try for the blue on the engine exhaust cone is mixing a clear blue with a bit of mettalic (flat aluminum?). The touch of metal in the blue gives it a much softer look. I use Tamiya enamels for this, though one could also use acrylics. HTH. Alan in YUL

Jay, I'd forward these pics to Greg directly. The breakup problem you've had in placing the decals should NOT happen. Looks very similar to what my original ones did. I've goten my replacement sheets but so far haven't had an opportunity to use them. I need to do some stripping of the old ones first and I'm waiting for a different frame of mind to set in before I attack this subject again. I also agree with FD. Draw's windows are too squared for my liking. I just wish Greg would print these sheets with windows separate from the main scheme.