HWR MKII

That looks fantastic. I agree with the wing folds. Forget accuracy as long as it looks as it should.

Oh one thing i forgot to ask . Can the Mohawk carry MK-84s on it? or was it limited to MK-82 and lighter? I want to change up the weapos load on it and i have some MK-82s and 84s to wire up.

Thanks guys. I assembled the wings last night. Only word of warning on that is to LOOK at the instructions. the part number call out o the sheet for the wing tip parts is wrong and i forgot what the correct ones are. But if you look at the diagram and test fit alot before you glue you will be fine. No fit issues on the wings. Also if you forget to drill them out for the pylons the holes ,for once, actually line up on external panels. WIng root fit looks decent but i havent glued it yet. Some mild rescribing will be needed on the engine nacells and their upper cowlings. The lines were light due

I have had this kit for a while now gathering dust. The Mohawk has a place from my childhood. Where i grew up in florida had a Grumman Depot there before Northrop bought them out. Almost every day i would see OV-1s going out for test flights and coming in on approach. F-14s werent uncommon either. The Mohawk stood out to me though. It just had a sleek and menacing appearance. I have read alot of reviews on this kit from bad to good. Some saying the parts fit was terrible others saying it went to gether fine. So i decided to try it out myself. One thing they all agree on however is the canopy

Sadly the academy M1 is little better than the tamiya one. The trumpeter M1s are also just is bad.they all have turret shape issues andhull detail issues. In terms of accuracy the newer Drago M1A1AIM and M1A2 SEP are literally almost 100% accurate. Great work on polishing up the academy one though. If you are interested in doing another i highly recommend the dragon offerings.

Ahhh workbench discipline relaxation rears its uglu head again. It happens to everyone at one point. I clean my bench periodically during projects to minimize disasters like this. unless its immeadiate to the steps at hand i dont like to have it out. Had to pause on my FW-190 build because of a near disaster like this. Fortunately since the desk was mostly clear nothing was harmed. I also keep the glue bottle away from the immeadiate work area most times so the main project is not near the bottle in case of spills. No worries though im sure you will get everything sorted. This is turning out

thanks. I wont be able to continue on it for a couple weeks. I need some narrow C channel from evergreen and my local supplier is remodeling.

Looks like your lines are actually filled and what your seeing is a slight texture difference from the putty areas and the plastic areas. Try giving it a even shot of primer then polish it with some micro mesh or 1500 tamiya wet. I see that on my models sometimes as well and it just up and disappears with that. Also try Mr Surfacer 500 brushed on the line and again polish it instead of sanding it. Block sanding helps as well if you arent doing it. This keeps the paper along one plane of travel and doesnt allow it to flex into the line.

Very nice. I think you got the weathering just right.

Wow....Just wow man. I dont think i could ever do THAT amount of surgery to a kit.

Very clean work. Cant wait to see what you do with the gear and cockpit.

After assembling the wing today the only advice i can give is take your time and, as zactoman says in his SU-27 nose instructions, Dry Fit Dry Fit Dry Fit. It will save you tons of headaches.

Thanks. The Photoetch is a little intimidating but in the end you just gotta do it. The dappling was easy. The metal was so thin the pen tip practically fell in. The Flap boxes fit like a glove honestly. some surgery and file work was needed inside the wing but it looks great in the end. I know it cant be see very well in these shots but the gear bays have Photoetch panels runnung the length of each side as well. on the forward wall of the gear well they hide the seam and on the back wall they just add detail. They even supplied small metal rings that go around the gunports and what looks li

Beautiful work. I always liked the look of the earlier P-51s. Just something more rugged about it.

I have the wing assembled and on the fuselage. WOW is the fit tight there. On the fuselage part there 2 little boxes in the wing root hanging down. The upper landing gear bay interferes. I had to cut these boxes out. Judging from some of the lines inside them i believe they were meant to be removed even though the instructions dont call for it. Once they were out and the shell ejection tubes for the upper guns in the cowl were adjusted the entire assembly literally snapped into place. Some mild sanding will remove any seam lines in the worst spots other than that no real filler will be require

Very nice. Good subtle weathering. Nice to see a tank that isnt all chipped and rusted to hell.

Thanks guys. Its been a rewarding project too. Not near finishing but getting there. My 2 main reference pages are here http://www.1rota.com/strela10.html http://tanksinmoscow.ru/MAKS/Strela10_02.htm youll see in the second link that theres floats mounted to the side of the hull. Its common to see Gophers with and without them. I like the lines of the hull without so i just represented the mounting points for them. When its done i plan on having the model firing a missile similar to this picture http://warfare.ru/thumb.aspx?img=0702ey70/...005/3/str01.jpg The kit comes with 4 decent Str

Very nice work. The PE parts reall set off the AFV club kit.

Skif may not be the best company out there in terms of detail or fit but unfortunately they are the only ones out there with a 1/35 range of MTLB based vehicles. The Strela 10 is one of them. Overall the fit is decent and the kit comes with an interior. However the interior is wrong for the A/A variant pictured here. So it has been left out. Most of the work you see here is creation of details that are present on the actual vehicle but completely left out of the kit. The kit does have one advantage that its overall shape is correct. I know there is an Eduard photoetch set for it but when i loo

Im working on the royla edition of this a few threads down. Be interesting to see the differences in our builds. Good luck. Even though theres alot of Photo etch it does go together well.

thanks guys i am having fun. Just busy scraping and filing away the excess material on the bottom wing so the landing flap boxes will sit right. Doing this before gluing in the wing spar and other gear bay parts keeps me from breaking things. The next part im looking forward to it the main gear bays. Almost every flat surface in there gets a photoetch part. At least it seems that this kit was engineered with the PE in mind. Not asmuch remove and replace as other kits that need Eduard treatment.

What can besaid about this kit except WOW. 2 FW-190 kits , all the photoetch made for them, instructions for everything, scrap of real crashed FW-190, reproduction iron cross and details out the wazoo. But i believe alot of you know this. I won the kit for just 28 bucks at a local club auction. Only thing wrong with it is no decals. This is why im doing a regular A-8 so i can have more choice for markings when i get to that point. Still searching for replacement Yellow 8 markings to go with the wreck chunk I started just a bog standard FW-190 to get used to the kit and how it breaks down. The