jetdx

I don't have a "search" function for these forums on my phone so I am just going to ask. This may be a trivial question but what is a "buffing metalizer"? What do I need to do with it and what kind of results should I expect? THX

I have decided to go with Mr. Color paints and I plan to thin it with the manufacturer thinner. Would a coat of future still work ok? How about a sludge wash? What should I use in a sludge wash?

I have been using Tamiya acrylic paints for quite sometime now but I think we all know the issue with Tamiya paints right now. The kit that I am building now shows "Creos Aqueous Hobby color" and Mr. Color. I do not know much about them. Acrylic paint smells better and can be thinned for an airbrush by alcohol. Also, my wife doesn't complain about the smell. That is how I am thinning Tamiya paints anyway. Are either of those two acrylics? If so, can it be thinned with alcohol? I want to keep with acrylics ideally. Tamiya paints are very hard to come by but I have some paints yet. I

As most of you might know Tamiya paints are not being distributed in the U.S. here for an EPA issue (as I have heard). I have NEVER primed a model before painting it. My results, to me, have been GREAT, or else I would have started priming. I have noticed that after painting/airbrushing my first layer of paint any flaws in my filling or sanding, including the lack there of will show better. I am airbrushing a Blue Angels aircraft and I think the yellow would be better with a white undercoat. Would my flat white undercoat work as a primer or should I spray down a traditional primer instead

DITTO

Hey yas, I am about to begin my next build(s) which will be several eggplanes. They are so simple that I plan on doing several at the same time. Since they are stubby do I still need to add weight in the nose? If anyone has any other pointers they would be greatly appreciated. THX

DITTO It is nice to know that I am not the only one. Do I need to start buying 1:48 B1 stuff?

LMAO...WOW...TOUCHY. OUCH...everyone knew what I was talking about! For now on I am going to also submit a disclaimer that has something to do with the way I am spelling things (i.e. B1B vs B-1B) Just remember: sarcasim (sp?) DOES NOT transfer over into what you are typing.

I have been holding onto my Revell 1:72 B1B for a LONG time now and it has been a while since asking this. Has anyone come out with aftermarket stuff for the 1:72 scal B1 yet? I know there is 1:48 stuff. I may just buy a 1:48 B1.

I have been thinking about doing such a thing for a while now but how does one get started building for a commission? I may or may not do it. I need some input. I have no idea how one would get started doing such a thing. THX Jetdx

The Tamiya metal primer cannot be seen when it dries. I was just curious what others do and if it not needed then I can skip that step and not have to wait for it to dry. Right now I am building a a 1:35 AFV M1126 Stryker. I bought A LOT of P.E. to add to it. The kit comes molded in "field green", I think it is, and I am painting everything to make it "NATO green". I have never had to do that before but that is A LOT of painting.

Hey yas, Is is necessary to prime P.E. parts? I have Tamiya Metal Primer because the RC211 (I think it was) race bike that I built called for it. Before I buy another can I wanted to get some input on the matter. THX Jetdx

The color that I came up with using the instructions is XF-5 (flat green). I looked at Tamiya's NATO green (XF-67) and the color that they show there looks better than XF-5. I have a lot of PE to add to it so I am going to have to paint it all. I have tried it before using the molded color (not painting) it and painting it all, even the same color, makes it look better. Another question then: I assume...after I get it done I add the weathering. I don't want so much but I don't want it to look like it just rolled off the factory floor. How do I get that look? Real sand (wouldn't the gra

That makes my decision for me. I like it when that happens. How close is NATO green to field green? THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Jetdx

For my next build I plan on getting into a 1:35 Stryker. It is molded in a field green color. I was on my way to the hobby shop to pick up paints. I figured I may just want to change that to a desert color. I use Tamiya Acrylics for everything...it seems to be working for me and if it is not broke don't fix it! What is a good "XF" color for the desert color? I guess it can be any brand. I will then covert it to Tamiya from the EXTENSIVE conversion chart I have. THANKS! I need the input!!!!! If it comes down to it I am just going to leave it the field green color THX Jetdx

Hey yas! I am looking for 1:35 scale modern weapons to put on my M1126 Stryker. I saw some at one time but I don't have a way to get back to them. I should have just bought them when I saw them the first time. Does anyone have any knowledge of such a thing? THX Jetdx

shull24...yeah i think that is right. i am at work right now so i don`t have it in front of me.

those are good points to think about for judging a model and something more to keep in mind when i build a model. there has been a lot of talk about them on these forums but i found a Sniper pod for a 1:48 B1 and a set of decoy buldges for a 1:48 B1. i can`t remember who manufactured them but i was glad to see them. BUT, when i got home i realized that the kit that i had already was 1:72. i guess i will have to but another one...don`t tell my wife!

forgot to enable email notification of replies....lol

This was the first time that I have been to a IPMS convention. I was impressed that I got as much as I did out of the vendor section. Also, I was impressed with some of the ideas that people came up with for models that they were showing. Some of you that entered a model might be reading this. One in particular that I can think of is an A-10 model that the person that purchased the model found that when they opened the kit the cockpit and armament was damaged or missing (I forget the details now) so they made it into an A-10 that was in storage in the "boneyard" in Tucson, AZ. All the ent

We have done MANY, MANY strut re-packs (replaced seals). I am almost (99.9%) sure that it is not polished steel because there would be MASSIVE rusting. I know it is coated steel. I am not sure that it is chrome or not...that is what we call it though. If the coating, in particular, the inner strut surface traps moisture and causes corrosion and pitting. If such a thing happens it usually needs to be blended and recoated. Airbus has rather liberal limits to corrosion and pitting on the inner surface. We were able to blend some pitting without refilling/re-surfacing without it leaking. I

WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I didn't know you all were that technical. Since I have been an aircraft mechanic for 15 years (14 years transport aircraft and 10 for a major airline) I will use exact terms. I should have known better. Some people are into aircraft modelling way too close while others got there knowledge elsewhere.

Hey yas, This doesn't only relate to "jet modeling" but how do you paint/cover the chome of the inner struts on landing gear? I have used "Bare-Metal" foil, used silver/chrome paint to paint them, and also used a sharpened silver "Sharpie" to color them. "Bare-Metal" foil looks the best so far but is VERY hard to use...especially if the model or strut areas are small. I don't like the look that the paint or the Sharpie give. I have thought about just using aluminum foil but that might be the same thing as the Bare-Metal foil. Maybe I am just doing it wrong. Your input would be greatly a

Good input...THANKS It seems as though I need to wait some more...OIG VAY! The first one to come out with the featherless exhausts will get my business!

AH YES...Cutting Edge...I get those two mixed up sometimes (I don't know why)