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About CrowTRobot

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    I want to decide who lives and who dies!

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    Graham, NC, USA

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  1. Thank you. If I built one of these kits again I'd skip the Aires cockpit and just install a nice resin ejection seat in the kit cockpit. The Aires fit was lousy, and you really can't see much it once the kit is assembled. While dry fitting the leading and trailing control surfaces on the wing I noticed that if I posed them in the drooped position there were very few gaps, but when I posed them in the raised position there were lots of tiny gaps that had to be filled. It was worse on the right wing because it was a bit warped. I straightened it by dunking in hot water and bending against the warp, but I still had gaps to deal with. Also, I think I'd skip the "J" and build an "E" next time because there appear to be more decal choices for it including some Mig killers. There were no Mig kills made by the "J" that I could dig up. For either model I highly recommend the Wolfpack resin speed brake. It was easy to install, and it looks great. Most photos of parked F-8s show the speed brake at least partially open due to the hydraulic pressure bleeding off and allowing the brake to fall under its own weight.
  2. Doh! Sorry about that. Perhaps a moderator will boot this into the display case forum.
  3. This was a pretty tough build for a Hasegawa kit. I opted to build it with the wing down and droops & ailerons up since the whopping majority of photos of parked F-8s show it in that configuration, but it wasn't easy getting rid of all the gaps that presented. Then there was the infamous problem of posing the canopy open. It's clear Hasegawa intended for the wing to be up and the canopy to be down, but I just had to be contrary. To make matter worse, the kit decals shattered when they hit the water. I managed to salvage them by spraying the sheet with Future, but that made them tend to curl up when they came off the backing sheet. In the end I used some of them, but I supplemented heavily from aftermarket AeroMaster (thanks Jeem!) and Furball decals. I also added an Aires resin cockpit & the Wolfpack resin speed brake (which is most excellent, BTW). An Air Master brass pitot tube rounds out the aftermarket stuff. F-8J_1 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr F-8J_2 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr F-8J_3 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr F-8J_4 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr F-8J_5 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr F-8J_6 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr F-8J_7 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr F-8J_8 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr F-8J_9 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr F-8J_10 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr F-8J_11 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr F-8J_12 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr F-8J_13 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr F-8J_14 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr
  4. I was planning to use the kit-supplied decals with my Hasegawa F-8J, but they shattered like glass when they hit the water. I ordered a replacement sheet from Hobbico nearly 3 months ago, but I've received nothing and I really don't expect to given their financial situation. I'm looking for one of the following sheets so I can finish my model (listed in order of preference): Aeromaster Colourful Crusaders III 48-445 Hasegawa decals from kit HSGS0226 Aeromaster Colourful Crusaders I 48-403 Aeromaster Colourful Crusaders IV 48-450
  5. I just finished this Encore/Monogram 1/48 F-102 Delta Dagger. I started it way back in 2014, but I shelved it while working on my U.S.S. Enterprise Refit. I picked it up again last October, and boy am I glad to be done with it. The fit was poor, and there were nasty seams to be filled on the underside of the wing and the starboard side of the vertical stabilizer. There were also some rough molding artifacts where Encore had grafted the Case XX wingtips onto the molds resulting in ridges that had to be sanded and pits that had to be filled. Some of the Encore "enhancements" & details seemed redundant or gratuitous to me, so I omitted them for the sake of simplicity. Overall, this kit was more complicated than some of the short-run kits I've built. I rescribed all the panels lines, drilled out the opaque formation lights on the wings and fuselage, and filled them clear styrene. I replace the kit pitot tube with a turned-brass tube from Master Model. I also added landing & taxi lights to the gear doors using MV lenses. The decals are a mix from the kit and SuperScale, and they represent an aircraft from the 57th FIS, Keflavik, Iceland, ca. 1970. The paints are from Testor's Model Master and Alclad. Thanks to the ever-diminishing selection and ever-decreasing quality this is probably the last time I use the Model Master paints. IMG_7349 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr IMG_7352 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr IMG_7355 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr IMG_7359 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr IMG_7315 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr IMG_7326 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr IMG_7365 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr IMG_7369 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr IMG_7370 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr IMG_7374 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr IMG_7378 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr IMG_7381 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr
  6. Kitsworld has a good selection of racy decals for P-51 and P-47 subjects.
  7. Yay! I've wanted a Caravan in 1/48 for a very long time. I've logged about 4,000 hours in the 1/1 bird. I hope they offer the cargo variant.
  8. That was a fascinating story. Thanks for posting it.
  9. I normally spray a coat of Future over Alclad with no ill effects. I've never tried Aqua Gloss, but when in doubt it's best to experiment on some scrap plastic so you can tell exactly what the effect would be without jeopardizing the finish on your model.
  10. If you end up going with a Sandy loadout try to find a 150gal resin fuel tank for the starboard stub. The Tamiya kit provides a 300gal tank for this station, but 150gal tanks were more commonly used there. Two Mikes made a 150gal tank for the A-4, but the same tank was used on the A-1. I used it on this build:
  11. Thanks! I didn't post anything in-progress- only the finished model.
  12. I finished one of these kits early last year. Take a look at this posting to see my comments.
  13. They're nice decals- which is especially good considering the lack of options for the FJ-1.
  14. I don't think that would work in this case because the wire I have isn't bare copper: it's enamel-coated. It's the kind of wire used in coil/transformer windings, and the enamel coating provides electrical insulation, and it's tough to remove.
  15. That's a nice find! I have spools of enameled copper wire in various gauges, but the colors range from red to green. I HATE painting this stuff because it flakes off so easily during handling. The pre-colored black and silver wire would make short work of adding brake lines. Do you know if they had this in 30 gauge?
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