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CrowTRobot

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Everything posted by CrowTRobot

  1. This is just gorgeous! Your first time using Alclad looks better than my fifth time. It's probably the best B-58 model I've ever seen.
  2. Wow- there's a lot of good stuff in this thread. Here are my paltry 3 builds for 2012: 1/48 Czech Model FJ-1 Fury 1/48 Monogram F-100D Super Sabre 1/48 Hasegawa A-4F Skyhawk
  3. Thanks, Gianni. I'm looking forward to seeing your completed Thud.
  4. Thanks! Great minds think alike, eh? What sort of load-out are your going to use on yours?
  5. I just finished the very nice 1/48 Hasegawa scooter kit, and it was a real pleasure. This thing is crammed with detail and lots of small parts, so keep the carpet monster far away if you build one. I used the Cutting Edge resin seamless intakes and cockpit sets, and they fit without any fuss at all. The decals are from an old Superscale sheet that I've had laying around for over 20 years, but they laid down skin-tight like they were brand new. The bombs and Shrike missiles came from Hasegawa weapons sets. Really- selling an A-4 kit without any ordnance included is like selling a pizza without any toppings. That's my only real gripe with the kit, but that's just the Hasegawa way. Paints used were Testor's Model Master and Metalizer and Floquil. I weathered with a thinned oil wash to grime her up a bit.
  6. Nice job! I'm partial to 50's-era jets.
  7. Take a look here. The tail markings appear to be the same as those on your T-33.
  8. Nice job on the Sabre! I'd like to see more of those Panthers and that T-33 in the background too. I think I have an F-84G model from the same squadron as your T-33.
  9. Wow, that looks great! Nice job on the weathering, and the photography is very good too.
  10. Looks great! My 9 yr. old son read a book about the "Candy Bomber" earlier this year, and ever since he's been wanting a model of a C-54.
  11. I'm partial to the Monogram Hun. I just finished one recently, and although it took a fair amount of elbow grease I'm happy with the choice. I never cared for the more expensive and heavily riveted HobbyBoss kit, although I have seen folks crank out some spectacular results with it.
  12. Holy thread resurrection Batman! I posted these photos almost 2 years ago! Thanks for the compliments!
  13. Yes, you can. I used that exact technique on this Monogram F-105D.
  14. Another thought: on your next Mustang paint the invasion stripes first, then mask them and paint the NMF. It will be much easier that way.
  15. I've never tried the metalizer sealer, but I'd advise caution when masking metalizer with anything stickier than a Post-It note. I prefer to use the wet-masking technique when dealing with such fragile finishes: Get some good quality gift wrap tissue. The stuff from Hallmark shops is good. Don't use the Dollar Store stuff as it disintegrates when wet. Cut small strips/squares of tissue to outline the area to be painted Dip the tissue in water and apply to the model. Paint the desired area Remove the tissue strips Repeat as necessary The wet tissue has just enough "tack" to stay in place when airbrushing at low pressure (<= 15 psi), and it will not damage the underlying paint. Try to spray at right angles to the surface if possible in order to avoid blowing air up under the edge of the tissue. Low pressure and thin paint are the key. Keep an eye-dropper full of water handy in order to re-moisten the tissue while painting. It can dry out rather quickly, and without sufficient moisture it won't adhere. The key benefit of using gift wrap tissue paper is that is very thin so it can conform to surface details. Also, when it's wet it becomes translucent (think of a wet T-shirt :) ) so you can see the surface details beneath it. This can help you in getting it positioned properly. It takes a bit of practice, but it's worth it IMHO in order to guarantee 100% that the paint job won't be damaged. I use this technique with all Metalizers and some of the more fragile Alclads too. Here are some examples: F-86F F-84G F-104C F-100D
  16. That's a very nice natural metal finish. What kind of paint did you use?
  17. Thank you. I don't recall the exact amount of time, but it took quite a while- maybe 20 hours total. There are lots of intricate lines on the wings, vertical stabilizer, and the bottom of the fuselage. I spread the scribing out over several weeks so as not to drive myself crazy. Yes, I sanded off everything including the access panels. I had scribing templates that made it easy to restore them.
  18. Thank you! Before applying the decals I sprayed the model with Future to give it a high-gloss shine. Here are the steps I followed for each decal: Dip in very hot water to soften it, then I apply it to the model. Dip a cotton swap in hot water and roll it across the decal to press it in place. Brush with Solvaset. When decal is dry slice through panel lines with a sharp scalpel and apply more Solvaset. Repeat steps 2-4 until desired finish is obtained. Afterwards, I sprayed the model with a mix of Future + Tamiya Flat Base to give it a semi-gloss finish.
  19. Thank you. I used the kit cockpit and seat, but I dressed them up with Eduard photoetch. The drop tanks and exhaust are resin replacements.
  20. I used a sewing needle chucked in a pin vise and a handful of scribing templates that I've accumulated over the years. I also cut some custom templates from an aluminum soda can.
  21. Here's my take on the good old Monogram Hun. This is the 3rd such kit I've built in 30 years, so there were no surprises left. However, I got a bit more ambitious with this one. I rescribed it and cut off the stabilators so I could reposition them in a more natural drooped position that you see on parked aircraft. I tossed the kit pitot tube and replaced it with telescoping sections of hypodermic tubing. The 200 & 275 gallon drop tanks are resin from Fox 3 Studios. The exhaust is Aires resin. Eduard photoetch rounds out the details. The decals are from Aeromaster. I used Floquil Old Silver for the "Operation Lookalike" silver lacquer finish, and Alcad + Testor's Metalizers for the natural metal portions.
  22. FS 30219 is indeed Dark Tan, and it's the correct color for the SEA camo scheme. Which brand of paint are you using? Perhaps you just need to add a little white to it to lighten it. I used Testor's Model Master enamel FS 30219 on this F-105D:
  23. Thank you. This is one of the older Czech Model kits from '99 I think.
  24. Well, after 5 months of work I finally I just finished this... pantload of a model. Like most short-run kits it had a lot of rough edges: The resin intake trunk was ridiculously short, so I replaced it with a longer styrene tube. The surface detail was so faint that one coat of paint would have obliterated it, so I rescribed it. The wings and horizontal stabilizers attached via simply butt joins with no positive attachment points. I built sturdy attachments using brass tubing and steel pins. There was gaping hole behind the cockpit where the aft deck should be. I had to fill it in with sheet styrene. The main gear wells had no walls. I had to box them in with more sheet styrene. Some of the gun ports and fuselage vents were plugged up with plastic (no doubt a molding flaw). I had to clean them up. The kit omitted the clear navigation light lenses on the tips of the wingtip tanks. I added some that I had left over from a Tamiya F-84G kit. I added a thin weld bead to the tip tanks using stretched sprue. The resin pitot tube was missing from my kit, so I substituted a steel pin in its place. It's probably better off this way since it won't break. I used Model Master & Alclad paints, and the final clear coat is a mixture of Future and Tamiya flat base. I used Area 53 decals to represent an FJ-1 assigned to the Naval Air Reserve Base in Oakland CA, circa 1950. The tape over the gunports is replicated with some painted clear decal film that I cut into thin strips. The wire antenna is EZ-line. That's it; I'm gonna' work on my Monogram Hun now.
  25. Wow- fantastic job! Are those Eagle Strike decals? If so then I have the same set in my stash. I wince every time I look at them because the green trim is going to be tough to apply without leaving any seams or wrinkles. However, yours look like they were painted on! What kind of decal solvent did you use?
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