CrowTRobot

I didn't know these existed- thanks! These decals are for the Sabre Mk.5/6- do you know if they're accurate for an F-86F-30?

I did, but I 'm having trouble with the paint lifting when I remove the transfer backing sheet. I found that I have to rub really long and hard to apply the transfers to a glossy finish. It seems these dry transfers adhere best to a flat finish. Right now I have a coat of Future over Alclad, and I'll be damned if I'm going to frost the whole thing with Dullcote at this point. I may never get back the original finish if I do that. That's why I'm looking for stencil decals.

Please contact me if you have a set of 1/48 Cutting Edge F-86 stencil decals you'd be willing to part with.

Here's another vote for 1/48

I'll bite. Please send your list to apuddleofgoo@hotmail.com (yes, it's a real email address)

I found something much better than news print: gift wrap tissue paper. It's much thinner and more pliable so it conforms to surface contours much better. When wet it becomes semi-transparent so you can see underlying surface details (think wet T-shirt and you'll get the idea). This helps in getting it positioned properly. I used tissue paper on an F-86 I'm building, and I was very happy with the results.

PM sent re. the Accurate Miniatures SBD-5

This works even better if you anneal the tubing first. I heat it up using a propane torch until it's glowing cherry red, then I roll and cut as you describe.

It's no great loss. The kit decals in previous releases were thick and poorly printed. I'd recommend using Mike Grant's excellent decals instead: http://www.mikegrantdecals.com/B58Main.html

Please disregard: I found a set

I'm looking for some aftermarket decals for the Czech Model 1/48 scale FJ-1 Fury. Specifically. I'd like to find a set of these: http://www.modelingmadness.com/scotts/decals/a533.htm Please email me if you have a set you'd like to sell.

I'm building the Hasegawa F-86 with the same color scheme, and I'm planning on using Model Master Insignia Yellow. I don't have a firm reference for this, but it looks right to my eye. Add a couple of drops of white paint to the mix for scale-effect and it should be a good match.

I don't think so. I recently used a thin bead of blue tac to temporarily attach an F-86 canopy while I painted the exterior airframe. The canopy was held in place like this for well over a week. When I popped the canopy off there were gooey bits of blue tac stuck here and there, but I simply dabbed at them with a another small wad of blue tac on a toothpick and it all came off.

Yes and yes. Spraying it over different primers produces a very subtle effect- perhaps too subtle for in some cases. For more obvious variations I have successfully tinted Alclad with Testors metalizer and other non-metallic paints (i.e. black, blue, red. etc...). I'm too cheap to buy a bunch of different shades of Alclad.

Have you tried contacting Kinetic to ask for a replacement sheet? Might be worth a try. Failing that, Aeromaster has a sheet with markings similar to those included in the Kinetic kit: http://www.modelingmadness.com/scotts/deca...ero/am48727.htm The stenciling isn't as complete as the Kinetic sheet.

I just checked his web site, but it's undergoing an upgrade and content is limited. I found a PE set for the RF-84F- does he also have a set for the regular F-84F?

Excellent! I think set #48004 is what I would need. Do you have any experience with the Airwaves photoetch set for the perforated speed brakes and spoilers? I'd like to make sure they'd fit the Kinetic kit before I plunk down my cash.

I have the 1/48 Kinetic F-84F Thunderstreak, and I'd like some recommendations for worthwhile aftermarket upgrades. I'd like to improve the cockpit and speed brakes/spoilers if possible. Here is what I have found so far: Airwaves makes a set of photoetch speed brakes and spoilers: http://www.rollmodels.net/search/pic.php?fName=AW484061.jpg Extra-Tech makes a photoetch set that includes interior and exterior details (including speed brakes and spoilers): http://www.modelsforsale.com/listphotos/EX48045.jpg AMS has a resin ejection seat, but I haven't found any pictures of it yet. Have I

Handling models with your bare fingers can leave behind an oily residue that can interfere with paint adhesion. Also, your fingertips can "melt" an imprint into enamel paint jobs that have not had time to cure. Long ago I used to do NMF finishes with enamels, and they took forever to cure. I've not had this problem with lacquers. Regardless, I now wear disposable cotton gloves when handling my models.

I also use 3M Acryl Blue, and although it is expensive I'm still using a 21 oz. tube that I bought almost a decade ago. Good stuff, but Gawd is it ever smelly!

I'm using Blue Stick for working with tiny photoetch parts. I put a tiny wad of it on the end of a toothpick and touch it to the part. The part sticks nicely, and it releases when I want it to.

Floquil Platinum Mist or Old Silver may do the trick.

Just copy the text out of your email and paste it here. I'm sure we'd all be interested to see this given that it just became available for pre-ordering. WTH is up with that?