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I.Illes

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Everything posted by I.Illes

  1. I.Illes
    Still looking for the sheet.
  2. I.Illes
    Hello Eric, now that would be good news after a really(!) long search! István
  3. I.Illes
    Still noone? 😕
  4. I.Illes
    *bump*
  5. I.Illes
    *bump* noone? o_O
  6. I.Illes
    Bump PM, please. Instant payment via Paypal; I also have some OOP 1/48 VF-103/VF-84 F-14 decal sheets (if that's more interesting) in exchange you can choose from, but I only give one of these away for the aforementioned JASDF sheet, I won't sell them otherwise: VF Decals: 48-84/103 The Jolly Rogers of VF-84 & VF-103 TwoBobs: 48-096 VF-103 Jolly Rogers Final Tomcat Cruise Yellowhammer Models: YHD48023 Tomcat Nose Art& Afghan War Hero (VF-14 & VF-84)
  7. I.Illes
    Hello all, title really says it all. If anyone is willing to sell that sheet for a reasonable price (I am in Europe), please let me know. Thx for looking! István
  8. I.Illes
    Sounds like you either pushed the needle in too far and split the nozzle like I did once while in a hurry and a bit absent minded, or some paint residue built up, which prevents proper mixing of air and paint. My H&S Evo is one of the pre-series and still does its job like on the first day, but then again, I fieldstrip it after every color I spray and also use a tiny pipe cleaning brush etc. and treat it very well. I also used some older Badgers and still use Iwata HP-B and -C, but cleaning them is a royal pain. Don Wheeler's site is probably still the best source for troubleshoo
  9. I.Illes
    Fixed. Added new links in my original comment, don't click the quoted ones. Just noticed: if the pics are small, you have to click them for the bigger version. Try again :)
  10. I.Illes

    I see your tiedown chain problem. The problem is that you attach the chain to a flat PE part, whereas the real thing allows the chain to be pulled through it. http://www.davisaircraftproducts.com/assets/images/chainGearLineDrawing.jpg

    https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/79/Defense.gov_News_Photo_050204-N-0499M-024.jpg

    Maybe this helps.

  11. I.Illes
    What I developed and works for me to achieve most realistic effects is to simulate what happens: Layer fade away, paint cracks, moisture affects metal etc. So my approach on any kit these days is: - Tamiya primer - Gunze buffable steel (let cure, polish until it is like a mirror) - acrylic(!) zinc chromate yellow or any other primer color that would be used on the real thing - acrylic(!) dark redish brown when this is finished: - hairspray (don't let it cure for too long) and apply your final paintjob on top of that. a wet old stubby brush and a toothpick will help the water to
  12. I.Illes
    My thoughts exactly. After my last Hasegawa F-14 that got almost everything the market had to offer, this is going to be a piece of cake, I hope.
  13. I.Illes
    *bump* noone?
  14. I.Illes
    Hi all, just about to build my second one (first one was almost 20 years ago and turned out ok for my standards then. The CMK-kit is pretty pricy and I don't like much loadout on my builds, so I'd prefer to depict the bay shut. The Aires pit is 15€ here, which is pretty cheap and I am not willing to do days of scratchbuilding when the proper replacement is that cheap. The only question is: does it fit as it is designed for the Tamiya kit? Thanks for any input, István
  15. I.Illes
    Coming along nicely! One day, I will get myself one of the big Cats, but the sheer amount of aftermarket that is required for fixing the current kits so they are accurate is insane. One should expect to get a correct kit for that money these days especially when one knows about today's technology and what is possible… My respect to all those who build and fix these regardless of the kits' shortcomings!
  16. I.Illes
    Looks like the old Mono indeed. The Exhausts are not today's standard, the Landing Gear lacks crisp detail, but at least they are honest and din't remove the ejector pin marks in the detail shots ;)
  17. I.Illes
    Far from it, but thank you :)
  18. I.Illes
    I was hoping for an HH-60H with the Nose FLIR, but this will have to do. I bet they release it the moment I finish this one… ;) Thanks for posting!
  19. I.Illes
    Thank you! It was a mix of Fightertown and TwoBobs. :)
  20. I.Illes
    Beautiful build! :) One minor thing: the so called Birdie Head on the Laser Guided Bomb seems to be missing. Tiny part, but surely laying around somewhere :) Great job!
  21. I.Illes
    Beautiful as always! :) Love that tailart on the second one especially!
  22. I.Illes
    Heat will cause the paint to come off as the metal will expand, the paint will most likely melt or flake off. It's not how slowly you will heat it up, but the temperature itself that you need to reach. I'd say try to gently bend your parts around brush grips or pens if you don't have specialized tools.
  23. I.Illes
    Thank you all :) I will check if I still have some of the in progress pics on my phone which I sent to my friend or add some bigger versions of those I have here if I find the time :) Two weeks went into adding these plus another two went into the gunbay etc.
  24. I.Illes
    Thanks a lot! The Verlinden parts were pretty helpful, but adding wires, bending the soft copper PE and all the research plus what to add and what not etc. did cost me 2 weeks including cutting through the kit, cleaning it all up and all that. :) I used stretched sprue, copper wire and the ultrafine wires from an old headphone (isolation removed).
  25. I.Illes
    :)
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