scotthldr
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Posts posted by scotthldr
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Yes plenty of aircraft that have no representation on the market or in serious need of replacements, a few that come to mind for my own personal interests in 1/48 are TA-7C, T-37, T-38, Mirage F-1C, C-27, NH-90. Yet multiple F-35’s, F-14’s, F-4’s and Su-27/33’s all come along at what seems at once🤷♂️
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Technology has certainly enhanced the quality of kits, accessories and decals, but I do feel that some stuff has maybe just gone too far in order to achieve 100% accuracy(is that a bad thing?). I’ve recently used some 3D printed items, I’m not going to name the part or the manufacturer as it would be unfair to them as the item is top notch but in order to obtain the greatest of detail the part is extremely delicate, fragile and fiddly to work with that you seriously run the risk of ruining the part.
One thing that annoys me is that living in the UK a lot of stuff is out of reach due to either not available or overly expensive due to shipping/custom charges etc…..due to these new VAT rules and companies reluctance to adopt to it. Then you have overly restrictive postal regulations which forbids the carriage of paints, thinners, glues etc…..
But times are indeed good for the hobby 😆
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Come on then PlaneLover, care to elaborate on why it’s a dumb idea?
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Anytime I’ve needed to achieve a Gloss White finish, I’ve always put down two light coats of Matt White first with a light rub down(4000 grit), between coats. Matt paint seems to have a better opaqueness to it. This is followed by one light coat of Gloss White, with a light rub down(6000 grit), then finished off with a slightly heavier coat of Gloss White. Once the decals are on a couple of light coats of a clear Satin finish to seal everything in, remember you’re not trying to achieve a mirror finish just enough sheen to differentiate from a Matt finish.
My current choice of clear coat is a 2:1 mix of Revell Enamel Gloss Clear to Revell Enamel Matt Clear.
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That would explain Vidar’s method then🤣. I built the AMT version many years ago and couldn’t remember how it went together, but now you mention it…….🤦
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Would it not better to paint the inside of the canopy, then shoot a very light matt clear coat on the outside🤷♂️
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Yip thanks for that, it’ll save me parting with another £50.
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I wonder if the recent NF-5A, 48110 boxing is any better?
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1 hour ago, ReccePhreak said:
I wonder how you tell if you have sub standard boxing?
My kit is ©2012, although I bought it many years after that. I haven't even opened the bags on it yet.
Larry
Are you referring to the F-5 or Mirage? The original boxing of the Mirage had very Light Grey sprues, but the later boxing was more of your standard Grey sprues, everything else, box, instructions and decals were the same. From a hazy memory the F-5 I had was of the same Light Grey sytrene.
later release on the left, original on the right
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Hi all,
I bought one of the above kits direct from Luckymodel when they first came out in 2012, however the quality of the finished mouldings were far from great, to the point that the kit was basically unbuildable and ended up in the bin. At the same time I ordered the Mirage2K-5 kit which also suffered from the same problems ultimately sharing the same fate. However Raymond at LM very graciously replaced the M2K5 kit with a later run version which was leaps and bounds better than the original. So am wondering if the problems with the initial F-5 releases have been rectified over the years? I know Kinetic changed their injection process procedures about 2015/16 and it seemed to correct a lot of the earlier sub standard boxings.
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Welcome onboard ARC. You’ll probably need to go 1/2 Female to Female coupling-1/2 Female to 1/8 Male reducer- 1/8 Male to Male coupling. I would also put a moisture filter and pressure regulator in line before the AB hose.
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I’m curious on what would happen to any plastic kit soaked in bleach, would it alter the qualities of the polystyrene, would it etch it or slowly dissolve it over time, would it become brittle etc etc ……🤷♂️
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Seems a hell of a lot more hassle with an unknown outcome to bleach the plastic, rather than just prime it🤷♂️
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Just to close this thread, the decal sheet turned up during the first week of October, so all good👍🏻 Hopefully things improve for Sylvain and his family.
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These are two of the finest models I’ve seen. The level of detail overall is exceptional, especially in the cockpit and on the seats. The paint finish and weathering is first class with a feeling of depth to it. Two models to aspire towards.
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It’s a Diehl FPR(Flight Profile Recorder) AACMI pod. I think it’s based on the IRIS-T body.
ACMI pods and Captive missiles are completely different pieces of kit designed to do completely different tasks, it’s not just a case of removing or adding fins to have one or the other.
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15 hours ago, ElectroSoldier said:
I always use the thinners for the paint line Im using.
Many of them may well be the same stuff in a different bottle but the one thing I know about them is they will always work in the paint they are designed to be used with.You would think that would be the case. I primarily use Xtracolor (20yrs +), but could never get Xtracolor thinners to work with them. The paint would take days to dry and sometimes would remain tacky to touch for ever(found any shade of Green to be the worst offender). I was advised by another modeller early on to switch to Revell Colormix instead and haven’t looked back, still use Xtracolor/ Revell combination to this day.
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Here’s a picture taken in 1974 of an early F-14 fitted with IR/ALQ-100 chin pod, although it appears the IR sensor has been removed for maintenance,
credit Peter Foster
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This explains the ‘D’
To commemorate the event Grumman repainted an a F-14D from VF-2 in the 1970's light gull grey and white camoflage scheme, adding a "25 years-The Cat is Back" logo on the inside of the tails.
The second ‘A’ shows the aerodynamic cover that was fitted when the TCS was removed.
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The areas that you’re referring to(I think) are the leading edges of the blades and show the usual weathering and wear of the outer cover wrap revealing the underlying material which in this case is a fibre glass composite so yes a creamy/brown colour. Some blades on other types of helicopters do have a metal anti wear edge to them, but I don’t see it on these.
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I’m not seeing any sort of Metallic finish on the blades in any of the above pictures, just heavily weathered and faded Black🤷♂️
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I find it unusual that they faded to a metallic colour considering they were made from fibreglass. This picture shows various shades of Blacks through Greys.
._The_ship_is_part_-_DPLA_-_b4533e1d84a16c1f75903915404f956b.jpeg)
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4 hours ago, Dave Williams said:
The lizard scheme in the Meng kit doesn’t do anything for me (plus doesn’t really seem appropriate given the kit load out of HARMs and ALQ-131).
I’ve not seen the decal options in the kit but the 52TFW at Spangdahlem routinely flew with AGM-88/ALQ-131, while still wearing Euro1 scheme.
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Not sure if they’re still trading but Roll Models used to stock Xtracolor Enamels, these cover BS, FS, RAL and RLM colours.
F-35A in solid color
in Jet Modeling
Posted
The colour between the two areas is more or less undifferentiable nowadays. Correct colour is FS36170, readily available from several manufacturers