Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by seawinder

  1. According to information posted here: https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?/topic/41612-f-15c-avionics-bay-color/ the last plane to receive the metallic green in Bay 5 would have been SN 79-0081, the last one produced in 1979. AFAIK, the boxes were black regardless.
  2. FWIW, there's a photo of the cockpit of unrestored Glacier Girl that clearly shows the interior frame(s) in the cockpit interior color (green). Also, while I know it's not a good idea to trust restorations, all the museum photos I can find show interior green canopy frames, except there are some with black frames around the windscreen center panel. The photos don't seem to be adequately identified to be able to tell if this was on earlier or later variants.
  3. I agree with Quixote74. Question if I may (pardon my ignorance on this): when was the overall 36375 scheme in use, and was it only found on F-14s?
  4. Thanks for posting the pics, arnobiz. I'd seen the top one, although I wasn't focusing on the stencils at the time. The NO STEP markings, clearly visible, seem to be the larger size of what I've got (again I'm guessing 2-inch height). The other variety of stencils shown in the bottom photo (with the circles around the letters) matches all the decals I have -- there's no discrepancy for those. I've actually gone ahead and replaced all the NO STEP markings with the larger size. There doesn't seem to be any documentation that they were smaller in 1991, plus there aren't enough of them on the shee
  5. I'm using the kit decals for a build of the Revell 1/48 F-15E in Desert Storm markings. The decals work fine, contrary to other reports I've read, but the sheet doesn't supply enough "NO STEP" stencils. I've got an Afterburner sheet, but the "NO STEP" markings are pretty much twice the size of those on the kit sheet. The kit markings look like 1 inch, the Afterburner ones 2 inch. Which begs the question: which size is right? No other F-15 sheets I've got have the markings as small as the kit decals, which makes me think Revell got it wrong. However, it may be that the stencils were enlarged at
  6. Thanks again, Quixote74. I think I'll go with slightly darkening the 36118, or possibly using something like Extra Dark Sea Grey, for a bit of contrast on the sides.
  7. I just found a photo of a large group of 4th TFW Strike Eagles in "Southwest Asia," 1992. The lighter gray dorsal blade antennas show clearly; no planes that I can see have the lighter gray side panels. I also found a photo of 87-0174 of the 333rd TFS that doesn't appear to have side panel(s) at all: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/4th_Fighter_Wing#/media/File:McDonnell_Douglas_F-15E-43-MC_Strike_Eagle_87-0174.jpg OTOH, in a set of photos that Bert Kinsey took of the 4th TFW just after returning from DS, SN 87-0209 has the side panel slightly darker than Gunship Gray, SN 98-0498
  8. Thanks so much for the information. Although there don't seem to be a lot of photos around of DS Strike Eagles, I'd agree that the lighter colored side panels don't show up very much. I think I'll leave them in Gunship Gray.
  9. That's more or less what I was thinking. Thanks for the confirmation. Do you happen to know if any of the other fuselage panels, like the two on the sides directly below the one in question, as well as the circular one aft of the cockpit, were also painted Dark Ghost during that period?
  10. I'm wondering about the small square(ish) panel forward of the windscreen. It appears to be a much lighter gray than the overall 36118. Should I go with Light Ghost, Dark Ghost, or something else? Anybody know what the panel is for? FWIW, I'm doing the plane circa 1991, DS. Thanks, Pip
  11. Whether or not the presence of rivet surface detail makes one kit better than another is a function of whether or not one wants to have rivet surface detail, and I don't think there's consensus on that point. I for one have one copy of the new Tamiya Mk. I and have built one of the recent Airfix Mk. Is. I haven't yet bought an Eduard Mk. I (I'll wait until they come out with a one-plane Profipack), but I've built three of their Mk. IX family and love them. My guess is that Eduard and Tamiya are a pretty close choice and have many features to recommend them, though perhaps not the same things.
  12. Some of the wargame figure guys in my club swear by Citadel metallics, and I must say they look great.
  13. May well be true. Does your comment in some way relate to the KH MiG-25? Just wondering ...
  14. Hi Darren. Those photos are indeed persuasive. I still think I'm seeing a slight difference in the blues in Tapchan's photos. Could be a trick of the light, but looking at the outer edge of the FOD cover, it looks lighter and bluer than the roundel at the same angle. Is it possible they custom mixed the trim color starting with Insignia Blue?
  15. Looking at the top photo posted above by Tapchan, to my eye the Insignia Blue of the roundel is distinctly darker than the dark blue on the fuselage. There's also, IMHO, a faint tinge of greenishness in the fuselage blue, so I would go with Gloss Sea Blue for the fuselage/tail color.
  16. From the diagrams it looks as if the outer surfaces of the vertical tails were also painted the middle color (officially 36320?), and I'm guessing the inner surfaces were the upper surface color (officially 35237?).
  17. According to Scalemates, the Monogram kit was a new tool initially released in 1993. The Aurora kit (1/43 scale according to Scalemates) looks as if it originated as Strombecker.
  18. Suit yourself, but I don't see any need for stencils for this sort of job. The mottle isn't really going to be visible as such once you're done -- it just breaks up the monochrome surface and simulates weathering/dirt. As for using different brands, it's REALLY easy to add a drop or two of white to lighten and a drop or two of black to darken.
  19. I'm not particularly into heavy weathering, but nobody seems to be jumping in here. FWIW, on a recent F/A-18C build, in addition to applying Tamiya Panel Line Accent (black), I mixed slightly lightened and darkened versions of the 36320 and airbrushed a tight mottle of both colors, much the same way as I would for a Luftwaffe paint job. I then misted a thin coat of the original color over everything to pull things together. I'm pleased with the result and will use it again.
  20. FWIW, it's a closer contest if/when you go for an A6M5 since both Tamiya and Hasegawa have produced good, relatively recent moldings. I have both and have built the Tamiya kit. It's really well done, and the cockpit detail OOB is extremely fine IMHO. My one disappointment is the fact that the sliding canopy cannot be easily posed open. I replaced it with the Hasegawa part, which fit perfectly, and will use a vacuform piece if/when I build the Hasegawa kit.
  21. For an A6M2 (or -3), it's hard to go wrong with the Hasegawa kits. They've issued a large number of boxings of both the A6M2a Type 11 and the A6M2b Type 21, the latter being the version seen in the Pearl Harbor attack. According to the Hasegawa kit list at Modeling Madness, all the Type 21 and Type 11 kits have the same plastic (no different wing moldings for folding or non-folding wings) and everything needed for a Type 21, but the Type 11 kits also provide the earlier rear canopy. Obviously, markings will vary from box to box.
  22. The Tamiya A6M5 is a relatively recent kit, while the A6M2 is decades older, so I wouldn't bank on the canopies being the same in detail. Of the options shown at the Sprue Brothers page, the set for the Tamiya A6M3 (EX318) would IMHO be the best choice since that kit is apparently a close descendant of the A6M2 kit. Although out of stock at SB, there's one listing for it on Ebay, and Hobbyworld USA seems to have it in stock.
  23. I've mixed Mr. Color with MRP with no ill effects, so you could probably tint the 26170 with a little Mr. Color white.
  24. Maybe this will be helpful (courtesy of Jim Sullivan):
  25. Two thoughts. 1. Use slightly darker shades of Alclad, like Duraluminum and Dark Aluminum, and/or mix in small amounts of Steel for other darker shades. 2. Use a panel wash of Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color (Black). Lay it on fairly heavy, then use a Q-tip dipped in mineral spirits to bring it down. If you do it right, you can leave a thin patina of black over the whole surface, and you can vary it from panel to panel by wiping off more or less.
  • Create New...