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About Starfighter84

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  • Birthday 09/13/1984

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    Rome - Italy

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  1. Hello to all! here my last work... an Air America PC-6 C/H2 from Roden (one of the most challenging kit that I ever faced). I converted the base kit to a "no car doors version" adding a new and corrected vacuformed windshield. Pilatus_15 by Valerio, su Flickr Pilatus_100 by Valerio, su Flickr I also used some aftermarkets like Quickboost propeller, corrected nose and exhaust, Eduard photoetched set and Wolf3Dresin.com main wheels and tail wheel 3D resin parts. Many other parts has been scratchbuilt or made by turned brass. The model ha
  2. Thank you all for the appreciations! Ciao Gianni!! It's nice to hear of you again. Yes, we still have that "suspended" coffee... this damned lockdown. As soon as possible we'll meet at Hobby House! Anyway, you can find the complete WIP here: https://modelingtime.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=19819 I used a tea filter... the one in photo:
  3. Hello to all! After 11 months of work I can finally declared ended my last project: an israeli AH-1 Cobra (Tzefa). This is the old Revell/Monogram kit dated 1986 with a lot of scratchbuilt details. Some parts are made by 3D printing, others are home made turned brass (like the cannon's drum, the M-197 barrels are from Master). I also used the Isradecal conversion and decal set. The viper on both sides of the model is painted, like the stars of David. The positive rivets come from the Archer transfer sets, the disco ball IR jammer from Fireball Modelworks. Painted with Tami
  4. Hi Thomas and thank you for your solidarity. πŸ™‚ The base of my reference had been the DACO book - at pages 37/39/40 you have a clear view of the central window. But I've also found some interesting pics on the web: To reproduce the window I've used a cutting plotter and a trasparent acetate sheet. The outer frame is made by kabuki adesive tape (on the aft cockpit side) and by plasticard (on the inner side). Talon-107 by Valerio, su Flickr Talon-108 by Valerio, su Flickr Talon-110 by Valerio, su Flick
  5. Good night to all, I'm glad to present my last work, a T-38 A Talon from Wolpack. I've built the kit OOB except for some scratchbuilt addictions in the cockpit (i.e. the separation glass of the central frame) and in the wheels/airbrakes bay. I also added the positive rivets from Archer on the exhausts zone. Pilot's name decal on the rear canopy taken from the Fundekals sheet. Hope you'll enjoy... take care and stay safe in this difficult moments. Cheers frome Rome. Valerio. Talon END 3 by Valerio, su Flickr Talon END 4 by Valerio, su Flickr Talon
  6. "Buongiorno! Mama Mia (maybe you trying to say MAMMA mia)! also this modeler encountered the same problem with the seats and canopy!! All of this modelers needs much more modeling skills because they are not so good with the fit of this Tomcat!!!! Arrivederci!" 😏 Indeed... the canopy won't fit not just for an error during the building of the canopy breaker.... THE CANOPY WON'T FIT, PLAIN AND SIMPLE!
  7. Good night to all! I'm back with my last work, an Aermacchi MB-326 G from the old ESCI (now Italeri) kit in 1/48 scale. The only two aftermarkets that I used are the Neomega cockpit (very poor and inaccurate)... and the 300 litres fuel tanks from SkyModels. MB.326-53 by Valerio, su Flickr MB.326-62 by Valerio, su Flickr I built from scratch the following elements: Flaps MB.326-14 by Valerio, su Flickr MB.326-21 by Valerio, su Flickr Exhaust MB.326-52 by Valerio, su Flickr MB.326-57
  8. Thank you! I used an italian floor product, this one: It can remove the floor wax like the Future and it is alcohol based. Alternative, if you use the acrylic paints the classic alcohol works well. For the flat finish I always use Gunze H-20 thinnered with nitro (that one you can find in the hardware shop). NOT USE lacquer thinner Tamiya o Mr.Levelling Thinner otherwise you obtain a satin surface! ;)
  9. Good morning to all! I'm glad to present my last work... a restoration of an old Hasegawa A-4 that I built ten years ago. I decided to put it back to workbench due to the "crack" of the fuselage: 21616109_10210113589216277_2086911637920727775_n by valerio, su Flickr While I was at it, I scratchbuilt a new UHF dorsal hump (the one in the Hasegawa kit is wrong in dimensions and shape) using the cutting plotter: A-4SU Restoration_11 by valerio, su Flickr A-4SU Restoration_10 by valerio, su Flickr There was other details to fi
  10. Enrico, be polite. Be respectful. You're in a critique section, as you said: "this is always the corner of the critic". If you can't accept the criticism, choose the "display case" section. It's very simple.
  11. Good! but the chipping of the paint sounds like something.... slapdash; particularly on the left side of the nose.
  12. The pics below show the same image that is printed in the book (instead, this is the Isradecal instructions sheet): Looking at the rudder... in the upper section you can see the green of the camo. Furthermore, looking at the sun reflection... under the rudder hydraulic actuator is clearly visibile the shadow. I would confirm what I wrote previously Enrico: the rudder isn't white, you get wrong.
  13. Thank you for posting the pics... the gallery I linked is incomplete due to the Photobucket problems! so, now also other users can recognize what we are talking about! I have the book that you've flagged, and I've read it many times. I think you're being misled from a sunshine reflection that impact on the rudder (in the picture, in that moment, was turned to the left). Pay attention to this detail the next time... but dont' worry! nobody's perfect. ;)
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