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chasejk

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About chasejk

  • Rank
    Scratching means something different here
  • Birthday 03/21/1967

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Vermont, USA
  1. I think I'm going with Flickr. I found a method to copy images and image addresses. Just right click the image, then select "original", then you can do whatever you want with it. Besides, I am a rabid Mac user and iPhoto has a built in Flickr feature for seamless uploading to the site. Thanks for the support. You can see more of my pictures here: Flickr Photo set
  2. Here is a link to the wiki page for the MK 46 Mod 5 torpedo. It gives all the main dimensions, you'll have to work it out from there. Wiki link If it helps, i had the props 3D printed in 1/35 scale. I don't know that they would scale down much better, but i could give you the link to have them printed if you are working in 1/35. The aux fuel tank is another story. I couldn't find any dimensions, so i just scaled based on reference points on the heli. Here's my scaled version. L= 107" D= 17.5" Hope this helps.
  3. Yes, I am still working on it. My picture host site shut down so I need to get a new host site then get the pics posted. I'm thinking about flickr. As a brief update, i've been working on the windscreen, MK 46 torpedo and the aux fuel tank. The windscreen gives me nightmares. Here's a few previews from my free Flickr account for now. Thanks for checking up on me.
  4. Thanks for clearing that up. Now I don't have to! As for the navy struggling with it's UAS program, it should be noted that in the early 70's when the air force put the F-16 into service, we would see, what seemed like, 2 or 3 F-16's a year go down out in the west desert of Utah during training exercises. But you lose 1 or 2 UAS's and now the whole program is struggling.
  5. Wow! Electrical junction boxes and all. Not easy in 1/48. Can't wait to see what else you come up with.
  6. The blades on the sea hawk are very different from the blackhawk, so they needed to be modified. Next came the folding blade hinges. I tried to make the hinges on the mill, but there were too many operations and not enough clamping ability. So I tried something new. I designed the hinges on CAD and had them printed at Shapeways.com. the color makes it hard to see the detail, but they look great and show a lot of detail. I can't wait to paint them. And all together. The next steps are the control link arms, blade pitch arms and the blade dampeners. After that, it's wiring
  7. Finally an update! I have been working on this for several weeks, but it has been very slow. I contacted MRC for the new windscreen and they delivered. However, the replacement is exactly the same as the previous, so it's a mold issue and not an anomaly with my part. So, I think I'll try to fab my own. That will take some mold making in order to thermal form some clear sheet. I'll wait and see how that all works out. Since the last update, I've been working on finishing up the rotor, swash plate and blade connections. First I made the plates for the scissor linkages, then the plate to link
  8. Awesome. Thanks to all. I've had great luck with Tamiya in the past, so I've got my fingers crossed. Thanks again to loachman and Mason.
  9. I'm hoping for some help. I am trying to fit the windscreen into my MH-60R Seahawk and after much fussing, I noticed that the left side bottom corner of the clear screen is deformed. It's not bad, but it's bad enough to cause serious fit problems. So the question is whether or not somebody has an extra windscreen from a 1/35 Academy blackhawk that they can spare? I know it's a long shot, but I want this to look right. Thanks, John
  10. I'm hoping for some help. I am trying to fit the windscreen into the Romeo and after much fussing, I noticed that the left side bottom corner of the clear screen is deformed. It's not bad, but it's bad enough to cause serious fit problems. So the question is whether or not somebody has an extra windscreen from a 1/35 Academy blackhawk that they can spare? I know it's a long shot, but I want this to look right. Thanks.
  11. Not a problem from me. But I do think you can do better than the likes of me, but I'd be glad help as much as I can.
  12. Wow, I'm surprised by all the praise. I had to check to make sure it was my project you were all commenting on. Thanks! I have started over so many times that I have lost track. I do use CAD to design with so that cuts down a little, but I still make mistakes. I'm only human. I use a Taig lathe. I love it. Super affordable and tons of add-ons available. http://www.taigtools.com/mlathe.html The milling is achieved with the addition of a milling attachment and collet system. Really great to use, but it has it's own limitations. but you get good at coming up with solutions. This one s
  13. Nice work. Love the lights. Doing the same on my Romeo. Seemed a waste to hide all that detail. Can I ask what your power source is? I am using 2 "N" batteries. It was a bit of a challenge to find a place to put them though.
  14. Thanks for all of the responses. Your support means a lot to me. As for the plastic comment, I only rebuild parts if they need to. Meaning, If they are not correctly shaped or the wrong size etc. But, I do enjoy scratch building, especially if it's a challenge. Thanks all!
  15. Continued... The Rotor hub is comprised of 40 different pieces soldered together. I still have the brackets for the dampeners to add, but for the most part the hub is finished. Still left to do on the main rotor hub assembly is the scissors on the swash plate, the connecting rods from the swash plate to the rotor hub and the most critical part will be the modifications to the blade roots. Everything will be "functional" (connecting rods will actuate the rotation of the blade etc.) and most importantly, it must be able to be disassembled just in case it has to be transported. so, th
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