Greenshirt

Arnaud, That's a permanent ground starting station. The hose on the left is for starting air (huffer) the black cable on the right is electrical power. They are/were custom built to specs as a cheaper-to-maintain alternative to the mobile starting units. Basically they look like boxes but they have connections and gauges the same as the mobile units. I did a quick search online but most photos for huffers and MEPPs show them closed up, or too far away to show details. Tim

I've used MM RLM23; it does look pink in the bottle, but if you stir it completely, I may have even shaken it, eventually it looks like a dull red. Not as dull as RAF dull roundel red, but Insignia Red is much too bright. Looked great once I sprayed it on. Tim

What you get when you replace dialog and acting with special effects and action.

IPMS is relevant. It frames our hobby and us as modellers; whether we compete or not. Competition and the "rule of law" enable progress, regardless of the community - modeling, athletics, manufacturing. That modelling progress has resulted in some truly fantastically accurate kits (and many duds) of a very diverse set of subjects. We can build a masterpiece today that only craftsman could do back in the 70's. I am not a member. I don't need to be a member of a society to feel a part of the fraternity. I go to shows, even national ones, and I pay my way. I compete with myself to make the ne

Igno-second. Tim

During the cold war we had aircraft in various "alert" states: 30 min, 15 min and 5 min. Alert 30 the pilot could either be in the RR, chow or rack; aircraft had all its checks done but RBF was still in (removed just before flight). Alert 15 the pilot had to be in the RR in flight gear, aircraft in same state. Alert 5 the pilot was in the cockpit. In all cases the time counted down to "launch" and for safety never was the aircraft actually hooked to the cat until ready to launch. In some cases though the Alert 5 was at the cat, just needing a few feet taxi forward to engage. Also, the RBF st

As Chuck says, the cockpit can fit. I used a spare seat and stick from a 3D-Kits upgrade set, plus put a piece of sheet plastic for the armor. Tamiya tape seat belts helped. But once the canopy is on it's all hard to see, just enough to know its there. Mk IXc kit came out in 2009, Mk I kit in 2010, and then again as Mk I/IIa in 2011. Given price, I like 'em. Tim

One theory says you start with the prototype color, then take the square root of the scale, the add that much white to the paint. Example: - KittyHawk CV/CVA-63 aircraft were either Light Gull Gray (FSx6440) uppers with White lowers or the later Tactical Paint Scheme of FS35237/FS36320 uppers over FS36375 lowers. - Your scale 800th...square root of 800 is about 28, I would round to 30%. - Now add 30% white to the Light Gull Gray for a "scale effect". Another theory, which I use mostly, is just use the basic color and not be concerned with "scale effect", but I have to admit using the abov

Hmm, he looks like a Rufus Hummer. We had one visit once while migrating and he was truly a bully, running off our local Ruby Throated Hummers. After a week it was back to normal; the usual bickering but everybody seemed to be feeding.

Nice build Collin. Finish looks sharp. Tim

Supermarine used an interior green that was different than model paints that are labelled as British Interior Green. In comparing the interior color of a Spitfire to other British aircraft it's a bit different. The color is more a beige-green, not a grey-green. I've read where Hu90 would work as it's closer than Hu78, for a Spitfire; Hu90 is a beige-green that's near to Sky. As you want acrylic, I would consider Tamiya XF21 Sky; by the time you put in a wash, highlights, etc; it'll probably look about right. If you think it's too bright, add some black or gray, but I wouldn't add much. I

Jorge, I took the below pictures at the RAF Museum earlier this month: X4590 background/history is here. As Edgar says, the stiffeners were added well past the BoB, and X4590 represents exactly what Edgar describes. As to decals, a quick search indicates you'll have to source them from spares in 72nd scale. Regards, Tim

No difference to the modeler, other than nameplate. Tim

Correct. Remove the cannon barrels, drill out the holes and remove the bulges. Tim

Right, I remember reading of the directional stability issue. There was also a balance issue, IIRC; and the larger tail contributed to fixing both issues. It seems reasonable to view production moving forward but fielding held until developmental testing was completed; and of course critical issues resolved. Tim