Jump to content

Skyraider Maniac

Members
  • Content Count

    988
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Skyraider Maniac

  1. I'll second with what Matt said about the decals. Might I add another useful tip for getting a good glosscoat? I suggest using Future as a glosscoat.

    on your models. It is an acrylic floor polish that you can buy at Wal-Mart. You can brush it on or airbrush it. It works wonders for making decals snuggle down

    into all of the recesses. It's very easy to use. You can find it in the floor finishing aisle. It is called Pledge with Future now, but still available.

    RYAN.

    Ryan,

    that's an interesting and useful tip! Could you expand a little more on it? Do I apply it before or after the decals? and is there any buffing to be done as well? just curious :)

    Thanks!,

    Justin

  2. Justin,

    The surplus versions that I have are the Japanese (JASDF) versions. There is some varience in this version and the regular release. However if you are going to use the kit to model the earlier version (SH-3D) then the parts that are different will not used anyway. Since to do the earlier SH-3D you will be replacing the sponsons anyway. I can sell this version for $40 plus shipping. Let me know if I can help you with any of them.

    Best Regards,

    Ken Bailey

    (SonyKen)

    I'm not quite sure I follow you on how to do the SH-3D... what do you mean "replacing the sponsons"? Sorry, i've just got back into modelling in the last year after a 8 year break - so my understanding is limited :) I am interested though. thanks!

    cheers,

    Justin

  3. Seems like a pretty awesome idea, i'm down with it - seeing as I am a newbie myself and would certainly benefit, just wish I had something to add other than just support. But seeing as thats all I have to offer, you have it!

    Justin

  4. Do I have these intakes on correctly? This is the old Academy kit from 1990 and the instructions are less then stellar! Is there supposed to be a gap where the pencil is and do I have everything lined up? Thanks for any help! :thumbsup:

    100_2413.jpg

    100_2414.jpg

    I Believe so, I looked it up and apparently there is a gap there. There are some pictures of this I found on Flickr.com that show the gap being there. if it helps the link is http://www.flickr.com/photos/kensaviation/...57603745893902/

    That has pictures (of an F-111E) of the intakes on there, and it shows a gap where you pointed. You might have to save it onto your computer in order to zoom in on it, but it shows the gap. hope that helps.

    Justin

  5. Hello all, I'm new on here, and have just got back into building models this past year after a 8 year break. As such, the realm of very good detailing is new to me. As well as modelling forums such as this (never knew stuff like this existed, this seems pretty helpful already from what i've seen). So needless to say, my modelling skills are pretty basic. I've seen pictures and have learned that there is tons more I could do to my models than what i'm doing now. So far, my painting experience has been brush and spray can only - and Testor's Model Master at that. I also only use the Testor's plastic cement that comes in the red tube. Thats the stuff I use regularly, but I understand now that there's a lot more out there than testor's, so I'm searching for ways to improve. i'll break my questions down by issues.

    First: Airbrushes. I've never used one, but I want to; so I don't understand the difference between single and double action and anything else about them for that matter. For example, can one use acryilic paint and enamel paint with the same airbrush/nozzle? What works best with both? What would be ideal for doing detailed work? Should I go single or double action? and what are the pro's and con's between the two? Is there anything specific I should look out for, and how can I stay affordable. Any particular brand or model that works best?

    Second: Paints. As stated, I use Testors Model Master paints, which I find pretty good for the most part, but that they can be a pain at times. Is the arcyillic better for color accuracy, or the enamel? I'm working on a diorama of a static display for my wife of the aircraft that have been stationed at her airbase (I'm doing a 1/48 scale static display of the bases' own Static display/aircraft park). So ideally I want to be as accurate as possible. What are some ideas on paints that are best for proper color?

    Third: Glue. What the best types of glue to use when working on models? I use the Testor's Model Cement in the red tube, but i find that it doesn't work well with different types of sprue/plastic/resin (really doesn't work well with Academy models for some reason - seems there's some sort of chemical reaction that ruins the bond and makes the plastic turn into some sort of elastic material that takes forever to dry). I've seen bottles of glue, but do I use a paintbrush to apply the cement? I'm sort of at a loss - I don't want to ruin any more models by using this glue seeing as it has a tendancy to eat certain types of model plastic; what can be recomended?

    And finally: Fourth! Decals. I want the decals to look realistic, not just look like they were slapped on the side and apparently not painted. I've heard of decal solution that actually bonds the decal to the model which makes it seem "painted" and gets rid of the thin sheet of film that gives it away as a decal. So on that note, what works best and what are some ways to make it look really authentic?

    I am all ears and eagerly waiting to learn whats best, Thanks!

    Justin

×
×
  • Create New...