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Posts posted by Skyraider Maniac
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Justin,
The surplus versions that I have are the Japanese (JASDF) versions. There is some varience in this version and the regular release. However if you are going to use the kit to model the earlier version (SH-3D) then the parts that are different will not used anyway. Since to do the earlier SH-3D you will be replacing the sponsons anyway. I can sell this version for $40 plus shipping. Let me know if I can help you with any of them.
Best Regards,
Ken Bailey
(SonyKen)
I'm not quite sure I follow you on how to do the SH-3D... what do you mean "replacing the sponsons"? Sorry, i've just got back into modelling in the last year after a 8 year break - so my understanding is limited :) I am interested though. thanks!
cheers,
Justin
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Justin,
I've got the set your looking for email at bherwig1@cox.net if your interested.
Thanks,
Bob
Bob,
I apprecaite it, but problem's already solved. Thanks for trying to help!
Respectfully,
Justin
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Jennings,
I will sell my surplus Hasegawa Seakings for cheaper than that one on Ebay and I will probably save you some money on the shipping also. That is if you are interested. LMK!
Best Regards,
Ken Bailey
(SonyKen)
How many do you have, and what is your asking price?
Respectfully,
Justin
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Seems like a pretty awesome idea, i'm down with it - seeing as I am a newbie myself and would certainly benefit, just wish I had something to add other than just support. But seeing as thats all I have to offer, you have it!
Justin
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I'm trying to find the AeroMaster EA-6B Marine Prowlers 48-528 decals and am having a on heck of a time trying to find them. Apparently they're out of production, which doesn't help either. Anyone have the set or know where I can get it?
thanks,
Justin
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There is a Hasegawa one on ebay for $54.95 It has 5 days and 2 hours left on it. the seller is Worf1941. The kit is open but everything is there (I know, I asked about it last week). Hope that helps.
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Do I have these intakes on correctly? This is the old Academy kit from 1990 and the instructions are less then stellar! Is there supposed to be a gap where the pencil is and do I have everything lined up? Thanks for any help!
I Believe so, I looked it up and apparently there is a gap there. There are some pictures of this I found on Flickr.com that show the gap being there. if it helps the link is http://www.flickr.com/photos/kensaviation/...57603745893902/
That has pictures (of an F-111E) of the intakes on there, and it shows a gap where you pointed. You might have to save it onto your computer in order to zoom in on it, but it shows the gap. hope that helps.
Justin
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First off, thanks for the warm reception! I'm glad to be a part of this group. Secondly, Wow! A lot of good information, I'll certainly take it to heart; I appreciate it!
Thanks Fellas',
Justin
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Hello all, I'm new on here, and have just got back into building models this past year after a 8 year break. As such, the realm of very good detailing is new to me. As well as modelling forums such as this (never knew stuff like this existed, this seems pretty helpful already from what i've seen). So needless to say, my modelling skills are pretty basic. I've seen pictures and have learned that there is tons more I could do to my models than what i'm doing now. So far, my painting experience has been brush and spray can only - and Testor's Model Master at that. I also only use the Testor's plastic cement that comes in the red tube. Thats the stuff I use regularly, but I understand now that there's a lot more out there than testor's, so I'm searching for ways to improve. i'll break my questions down by issues.
First: Airbrushes. I've never used one, but I want to; so I don't understand the difference between single and double action and anything else about them for that matter. For example, can one use acryilic paint and enamel paint with the same airbrush/nozzle? What works best with both? What would be ideal for doing detailed work? Should I go single or double action? and what are the pro's and con's between the two? Is there anything specific I should look out for, and how can I stay affordable. Any particular brand or model that works best?
Second: Paints. As stated, I use Testors Model Master paints, which I find pretty good for the most part, but that they can be a pain at times. Is the arcyillic better for color accuracy, or the enamel? I'm working on a diorama of a static display for my wife of the aircraft that have been stationed at her airbase (I'm doing a 1/48 scale static display of the bases' own Static display/aircraft park). So ideally I want to be as accurate as possible. What are some ideas on paints that are best for proper color?
Third: Glue. What the best types of glue to use when working on models? I use the Testor's Model Cement in the red tube, but i find that it doesn't work well with different types of sprue/plastic/resin (really doesn't work well with Academy models for some reason - seems there's some sort of chemical reaction that ruins the bond and makes the plastic turn into some sort of elastic material that takes forever to dry). I've seen bottles of glue, but do I use a paintbrush to apply the cement? I'm sort of at a loss - I don't want to ruin any more models by using this glue seeing as it has a tendancy to eat certain types of model plastic; what can be recomended?
And finally: Fourth! Decals. I want the decals to look realistic, not just look like they were slapped on the side and apparently not painted. I've heard of decal solution that actually bonds the decal to the model which makes it seem "painted" and gets rid of the thin sheet of film that gives it away as a decal. So on that note, what works best and what are some ways to make it look really authentic?
I am all ears and eagerly waiting to learn whats best, Thanks!
Justin
Airbrushing, paints and model glues.....
in Tools 'n' Tips
Posted
Ryan,
that's an interesting and useful tip! Could you expand a little more on it? Do I apply it before or after the decals? and is there any buffing to be done as well? just curious :)
Thanks!,
Justin