blunce

Any images yet?

Make sure you get all that elbow grease off, paint don't stick to it very well :lol: Great job getting back to a new canvas!

yeah, that's what I was afraid of. Since I don't have any of the Tamiya clears, I was hoping to find an alternative, but I think some clear red, yellow(?), and orange may be in my future.

Figured I'd ask here since this is most prevalent in auto modeling (I think), so what are you guys doing to color clear plastic amber and red for tail light lenses when the plastic hasn't been pre-colored for you. I've been using Future mixed with food coloring, which works fine on small lenses like landing lights on 1/48 aircraft, but doesn't work so well on larger stuff for 1/35 armor lenses. Also tried mixing Tamiya colors (non-clear variety) with Future, but really was about the same result as using the food coloring. Problem is, I have to apply so many coats to get the right color dens

Thank you Jeff! Appreciate it! Thanks Mikkel. Well they can't all have bite I guess. Though I'm sure a Springbok has been know to bite something at least?!

Probably only a few people on the planet that would be able to tell you the crew names were wrong! So if you can get the numbers you need, and the 48-020 sheet which Brian has in stock (at this time, subject to change?) then you should be able to do the scheme you want I think.

Well FTD and 2Bobs are quite good. I'd choose them over SuperScale or most of the others really. If you really want to do the medium gray scheme (160) you might be able to use the 48-020 sheet and would really just need to source the 160 and Buno numbers to be almost entirely accurate. The only really tough thing to get would be proper crew names.

Yeah, that's some great riveting, nice-n-straight, for 1/72. And the detail you are adding looks amazing! The Seiran has always been one of my favorites too. I didn't know this was essentially the land version of it.

That might be to your advantage. You want some color variation in the NMF pieces anyway. I think if it were me, I'd do a helluva lot dryfitting, and paint the exterior panels before installation. But I'd have to see what I was dealing with to be sure. But the way you describe it, seems like that'd be the way to go.

ahh, that's true. Well, might be time to start watching Ebay or posting a looking for post in the Spares Box section here on ARC.

Veliko, Unless you're really stuck on the number 160, FTD sheet 48-020 has exactly the same scheme as the 160 you posted above, and that sheet is still in stock. Only difference would be crew names and the modex number of course. Everything else is the same. I'll scan my sheet and post it here for ya to see.

Looks purdy good, but seems a bit tough to see. Perhaps some photos on a white background? And since this is "critique forum", I'll offer this observation: while the aircraft looks to be somewhat weathered, the nozzles look pristine. I'd like to see more color variation in them. Also, try and increase your F-stop to get more depth of field for the focus. See how the area that is focused is fairly small compared to that which is blurry? Increasing your F-stop helps this. But other adjustments then become necessary as well. Good to do a search on that, there's been threads here before on photo

Question answered over on Hyperscale: Rub pastel dust or pigments on the sheet.

Not sure of the rates, but this hotel is literally right on the waterfront and very nice. http://www.edgewaterhotel.com/

I read a tip somewhere (here or on Hyperscale I think) that a few guys suggested using to make the outline of the masks show up before they are peeled off the sheet. Anyone know what this trick is? I should've written it down, but didn't.

Yeah, I figured. It's just that all the pics were just posted today. Nice job though, it really came out nice. I really like the subtle weathering and the paint scheme.

Man! That is stunning! I'm assuming you didn't do all that in a day? Oh, who's kit and what scale?

Janne, Probably too late at this point, but I just dealt with this same issue the last few days. I had a pair of small rectangular marker lights that were molded clear and needed to be turn signal amber. First I tried food coloring in Future, and dipping it, but it took so many dips, eventually it looked like crap and also began getting foggy. I suspect when the Future gets too thick, it starts to fog up. Eventually, I opted to just mix Tamiya colors straight into Future, with alot of Future and a little color, then airbrushed this mixture over my parts. Still took many coats as I probably di

Hi John, That's some amazingly accurate and sharply detailed work there. Looks like the real thing. Very inspiring!

Hey hammy, how 'bout cutting some thin strips of white decal paper?

Hey Guy, I can't speak for Aaron, but you could always strip it and get a fresh start on it. If no assembly's been done should be a piece of cake to strip. Just an idea, though I imagine it will be ok to start as is.

I really need to switch to contacts

Gotta love Old Elvis with his walker. All of em are GREAT, but Elvis gave me a lol!

Yeah, GREAT job Hawg! Will it be going into a swamp diorama next?

If this is Ebay and you are paying with Paypal, I'm not sure of all the specifics, but ran into this problem when I sold a few things a few months ago. Apparently, if you pay through Paypal, Ebay requires you to use International Priority because there is no tracking option with 1st class. So, hypothetically, the seller could send you the kit 1st class intl, you get the kit, then file a dispute with Paypal saying you never got the goods. Since there is no tracking on the package, Paypal will refund you your money and the seller is out a kit and the $. So that may be what's going on here. I ha