Jump to content

AbramsTanker

Members
  • Content Count

    16
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About AbramsTanker

  • Rank
    Snap-Together
  • Birthday 09/11/1987

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Fort Carson, CO
  1. AbramsTanker

    M1 ABRAM

    Being an M1 TC I have to admit you did a great job of catching the essence of the tank.
  2. SEP stands for system enhancement package, most of what they did was put updated electronics in the tank as well as cutting down on fuel capacity to put a APU in the rear left which ended up turning into just a place to put extra batteries and alot of other minor changes.
  3. Are you talking about the diffrence between an A1 or A2 to an A2 SEP?
  4. All the M1's that are coming off the line now are refurbished
  5. I just recently moved to colorado and the building im in has thin walls so i think using my current compressor which is just a standard one (that is very loud) from a hardware store made for filling bike tires etc. is out of the question. so im in the market for a new airbrush compressor that isnt very loud and preferably under 300-350 does anyone have an recommendations or am i gonig to have to up my price limit?
  6. actually the center bolt is bare metal
  7. thanks for the advice and i wish i would have heard about that right step sooner. i just finshed dullcoating my panther and i got alot of what i guess is called frosting. any reason in particular why this happened? it doesnt look that bad but there is buildup in alot of panels lines and bolts especially on the roadwheels, would some windex be able to get rid of this build up without me having to redo the whole job?
  8. im finally at the point were im ready to dullcoat my DML panther. it has a gloss coat of future to seal everything in and my plan was to airbrush a mixture of future and tamiya flat coat as a final coat. i cant seem to get a good mixture though, the last one i tried was about 20-25% flat base to 75% future i think i remember reading that about 15% flat would be good enough but everytime i airbrush my scrap models it still comes out as glossy as pure future. this is my first time using clear coats and im wondering if maybe im doing something wrong. im about to be pcsing on top of this so my ti
  9. can tamiya flat base go bad too? i just bought a jar of it recently and was planning on mixing it with future for a dull coat but the flat base seems too thick.
  10. so far on my dml panther ive done my first clear coat of future and added the decals last night, ive decided to do a wash but am not sure if i need to put another coat of future in order to protect the decals from the wash or should i just go ahead and put the wash directly over the decals? also i am debating an oil wash vs. a chalk pastel wash what are the pros and cons of those two methods?
  11. today i highlighted the tank with a mixture of the base coat and white took me a while to get the mixture right but i managed to get it where i wanted it. i decided to not go with further highlighting the panel lines with a darker color because dulling down the stripes brought out the preshading just enough. other than finshing weathering the track a bit im just waiting to clear coat and put down the decals and attempt a wash.
  12. thanks for the advice guys even if some of it comes from a scout . i think im going to go with a light dusting of white followed by the post shading and a wash. i have a few questions though for the dusting of the lightening color i was thinking that white might stand out a bit much, i think i have heard of people doing this with the base coat color and some white added to it if i remember correctly. also before i start the post shading or any further weathering in general would it benefit me to add a clear coat of future now to protect my work? here are some pictures of where i am currently
  13. after a long break from modeling ive just finished airbrushing my first model a Dragon Panther A . i preshaded with flat black and once the tan base coat was painted it had a very good weathed look but once i painted the camoflage stripes of green and brown most if not all of the weathered look that the tank had went away. other than airbrushing some tamiya smoke around the muzzle brake i wasnt planning on much more weathering but now the tank is back to that fresh out of the factory look im intersted in what options i have to give it a more realistic look.
  14. ok so i managed to get the track on and it was less of an issue than i thought it was going to be just very time consuming. now im on to painting. i got the base coat on and now its on to the stripes that cover the whole tank. this is my first time using an airbrush and so far ive managed to achieve some good results with preshading. with the stripes im wondering what would work best, trying to paint them freehand or masking then painting.
  15. thanks for the advice i just finshed painting the road wheels and the hull so ill be getting to the tracks soon ill try to get some pics some with the results
×
×
  • Create New...