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About Nick_Karatzides

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    Tenax Sniffer (Open a window!)

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    Valley of Death

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  1. @ Major Walt, You are welcome. As far as I can remember, nobody asked this before, so no need to apologize. Well, after few years of experience on 3D design, I can say that there is no magic software to build everything. I use something of “this” or a little “that”, then touch-up with some of the “other” untill having a final result. You know, each 3D designer loves to work with some specific software and stay on this - I am not like this, while I consider myself flexible and can produce 3D models with combination of two or more softwares. When Anyuta 3D fou
  2. Meanwhile, the rotor blades for both versions attached on their rotor heads as described into the building manual (click HERE for the PDF formated file) through pages #88 to #94. Parts sprayed over with AK interactive AK768 primer to spot mistakes and prepare for paintjob. I did a visual inspection and shot some pictures. After overall primer, rotor blades dry fit tested to ensure that all individual components could be later combined together as an overall built model. I admit that it’s not easy to handle Kolibri scale model and find best angle for photoshoot on bench, w
  3. Been long time since last visit, huh? Well, let's remember some hobby fun again. The objective is to build two different diorama scenes for two different versions of the same helicopter: One for the full fuselage version of the 1/18 scale Flettner Fl-282 V21 Kolibri model kit and, A second for the cutaway / fabric stripped version of the 1/18 scale Flettner Fl-282 V21 Kolibri model kit. According to plan, both of them would include few additional features without distracting viewer's attention, keeping the Kolibri helicopter as the main protagonist of the story. Starting
  4. The helicopter model secured in place, by wedging the pins under the wheels into holes that had been already opened on concrete (that's the reason wheels had pins underneath). Once the Kolibri placed on display, each one of all these previously mentioned 1/18 scale items & diorama accessories also secured on ground with hidden metal pins and glued with transparent silicon. Finally, few more “maintenance & refueling area” related items (such as one 1/18 scale WWII era fuel hand pump, a set of 1/18 scale wheel chocks, some 1/18 scale wooden crates and a couple of 1/18 scale water buckets
  5. CHAPTER XII - Concrete apron display base construction When I started this Kolibri project for a collector located in Kiel, Germany and later built more identical helicopters for other customers and my own collection at home too, I was concerned about a proper display option, on which the model would be placed. My goal is to build up a simple diorama scene, which looks like a “maintenance & refueling area” on a forwarded airfield. From an artistic point of view, a “maintenance & refueling area” scene might possibly dictate everything to be into a state of complete engine oil ‘n’
  6. The wheels attached on undercarriage, according instructions described into the building manual. The U-shaped nose wheel supporting fork, pinned into the shock absorber slot while making sure that axes are aligned, as shown in following picture. Notice that nose wheel is tilted accordingly to the rudder fin (which is already installed) as previously explained. The twin 25 litres cylindrical fuel tanks (mounted externally on both sides of the pilot seat), attached on frame by plugging pins into proper slots as shown on the following pictures & secured in plac
  7. The main advantage of the pigment powder shades is that the already painted scale model gets some nice weathering / lighting effect tones. On the other hand, the big disadvantage is that once the pigment powder settles on the model’s surface, it should not be touched to avoid smudging. To overcome this problem, modelers usually secure the pigment in place by carefully soaking the model surface with modeling fixer. However, even after applying modeling fixer, it is not absolutely safe to touch the model. I tried a different approach and used Winsor & Newt
  8. To add some weathered look on fuselage areas (doped fabric covering over the steel & wooden frame on real helicopter) and replicate parts like being dirty, dusty or sunfaded, I appplied different shades of dark brownish pigment powder, trying to blend them nicely to look artistically accepted and create 3D-alike effects on flat surfaces. The results on model may not look so “strictly realistic” comparing to the real world objects, but IMHO scale modeling has to balance between realism factor and artistic expression. I admit that adding (extensively in some specific areas) pigment powder, m
  9. CHAPTER XI - Assembling individual parts As soon as most individual 3D printed parts on both “full fuselage” & “cutaway” scale model kit versions were already painted & weathered, everything should be combined and assembled as an overall built miniature. Having already installed the rudder fin and the two horizontial elevator fins on the “full fuselage” version model’s tail, the gear box unit was next. Following instructions described into the building manual (click HERE for the PDF formated file) through pages 33 to 37, all the four pins on gearbox unit should be simultaneously
  10. After all kit parts washed in White Spirit & water to clean the oil traces, every section of the model has been repeatedly dry fit tested to ensure that all individual parts could be later combined together as an overall built model. When looked OK to me, each part sprayed over with an undercoat mixture of 80% Life Color LC02 Matt Black and 20% Life Color LC37 Matt Burnt Umber acrylic, to prepare the surfaces for the basic paint which about to follow. Later, a very thin coat of Life Color UA503 Light Blue acrylic paint layer applied, very diluted with Life Color’s acrylic thinner in a 30%
  11. Although 3D printed models do not differ so much from ordinary kits, the plastic material may cause surprises. Some of the kit parts may feel a little greasy and appeat slight traces of oil on their surface. As I've already described into previous pages, it is absolutely normal. After the 3D printing process was finished and the kit parts been removed from the printer tray to be washed into an ultrasonic oil bath and later an ultrasonic water bath, some oil traces escaped the clean inspection and dry by hand procedure. Parts can be easily cleaned by following one of the following methods:
  12. Rotary hand pump used by techical crews & maintenance personnel to transfer fuel from the 55 gallons drums to aircraft & armoured vehicles fuel tanks or into the 20 lt fuel canisters (both drums & canisters are available for sale at Anyuta 3D products catalogue). This type of manual fuel pump used by Luftwaffe & Wehrmacht during WWII. The rotary hand pump kit contains all necessary parts for assembling one fuel hand pump under 1/18 scale. Any extra diorama accessories (hose, 55 gallons fuel drum etc) are not included and should be purchased separately.
  13. Some additional parts unrelated to the helicopter structure, also 3D printed to be used later as part of a diorama scene. For example few 1/18 scale 20 litres fuel canisters, a couple of 1/18 scale 200 litres fuel drums as used by Wehrmacht, Luftwaffe & Kriegsmarine during WWII with “Kraftstoff 200L Feuergefährlich Luftwaffe” and “Kraftstoff 20 L Feuergefährlich 1941” inscriptions engraved or embossed on side, a 1/18 scale fuel hand pump and one 1/18 scale wooden 3-steps ladder as used by Luftwaffe WWII ground crews and technician personnel for ground vehicle & aircraft maintenance pro
  14. As soon as 3D printing process completed, the produced parts were cleaned & checked for broken parts or imperfections by Shapeways 3D printing lab specialized personnel. Later, everything carefully packed and shipped to my home address using UPS 24hrs delivery service. Once again, I was happy to hold my own custom 3D printed model kit, CAD designed with my laptop and later converted to an actual physical object, under my preferable 1/18 scale.
  15. After digitally building the Fl-282 Kolibri cutaway 3D model using only mouse clicks, I saved it as an STL - STereoLithography format binary file and forward it on the 3D replicator to start generating the individual parts of the actual scale model. Once again, I used best available tools & plastic material and asked from Shapeways digital fabrication lab (equipped with a high-precision & high-cost “ProJet HD 3000” machine for creating custom made-to-order products), to 3D print it. The 1/18 scale Fl-282 V21 Kolibri “cutaway” model kit consists of more than 40 different 3D printed part
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