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About Janissary

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    Full Blown Model Geek

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  1. Looking for recommendations for a fan for fume removal. This is not for a spray booth (despite the title). Rather, I'd like something that I can mount on plywood, where the whole thing can be slid onto the bottom opening of a sash window at will (like the one in the pic). There is a wire mesh on the outside of the window. There will be another window open on the opposite side of the room. So the purpose is to get a steady air motion out the window that has the fan. I will be airbrushing virtually right infront of the window. I want something that is as quiet as possible. Something that will not rattle the window (there is a bedroom next to this room). Low RPM, high CFM is what seems to be recommended, but not sure. I looked up a few DIY spray booth videos. Most either use computer cooling fans or more industrial type fans. I need mine to have a depth-wise narrow footprint to fit in the opening. The height/width could be as much as 12"X12" if need be. Seems like I may need 70-100 CFM, but this simply a guess based on the videos I watched. Also, something that already comes with an on/off switch, or something that I can easily wire up with a simple switch would be great. Any recommendations? Even if you could help me what parameters I should pay attention to that would be of great help. TIA.
  2. AMK 1/48 F-14!!!

    Wow. All sorts of memories came striking back when I saw his wristwatch.
  3. 1/48 Hobby Boss Su-30MK2 Venezuela AF

    Thanks Joel. Yes, the black edges will likely show, and I wanted it to show through ever so slightly to create a visual interest on those curves. Sometimes in the real thing there appears to be a darker, wetter region where the two colors intersect. Not that I saw this on the Su-30s, but it is an effect that I tend to like. So, the base color may end up being totally hidden. Either way, I plan on quite a bit of post-shading. I want it to have a somewhat dirty and tired look.
  4. 1/48 Hobby Boss Su-30MK2 Venezuela AF

    Thank you all. Unfortunately, the pilots turned out a little too dark. I did a future dip to blend the colors. But it blended everything too much. Next time, I will just spray a light layer of future. But, inside the closed canopy, I am going to force myself to look past it :) CJ, I am using parafilm for masking on top of the Tamiya tape edges. I trim the parafilm with a scalpel by running it over the Tamiya tape but without pressing down too hard. A few more steps. My goal is to freehand the camo as tight as possible, even though the real thing carries a hard edge camo. It's a challenge I look forward to. As for the colors, I have not made a final decision yet, but I will be mixing the colors. I don't want to buy new color bottles so will work with what I have. Here is what I think: - Light gray: Gunze 36375 (light ghost gray) - Medium: Tamiya XF-54 lightened with white. - Dark: Tamiya XF-24 lightened with white, and lightly tinted with blue. One question for the experts: Is it true that the underside gray is the same as the light gray on the top? Caracal decal instructions calls it this way. I was wondering if there is a slight difference between the top and the bottom in the light gray color. Primer on. Back surfacer, followed by a mix of gray surfacer + Tamiya white. Just to give a non-uniform base to work with: Then, drew the camo pattern: Finally, began delineating the camo edge in black. The goal is to establish a boundary for the free hand, and also create the illusion of 'wet' boundaries that I really like.
  5. 1/48 Hobby Boss Su-30MK2 Venezuela AF

    Cleaned the model with rubbing alcohol, which means the last step before primer:
  6. 1/48 Hobby Boss Su-30MK2 Venezuela AF

    The last steps before primer.
  7. Obsession with FS 36170: Who Got It Right?

    Thank you very much for the F-35 colors. Very useful. I'd love it if you can do the same test with the Mod Eagle colors (both the light and dark grays). I am extremely interested in Tamiya, Gunze, Hobby Aqueous, MRP (anything that is non-enamel, non-testors, and non-lifecolor really). I believe MRP has these two paints but not sure how good a match they are. Of course, I am all ears if anyone has good pointers for the ModEagle colors (FS 36176, FS 36251) directly from the bottle or in the form of mixes.
  8. 1/48 Hobby Boss Su-30MK2 Venezuela AF

    Gianni, thank you so much for all the info and the offer. I have been on and off arc but have begun painting the pilots. Hand brushed the face, undershirt and the gsuit. Just masked it with silly putty to airbrush the helmet. Im battling with the flu. Aaaahh daycare! Ever since my 4yo started it, our doctor visits have skyrocketed.
  9. Pre-shading

    ...which is what everyone posting here does already, so all is good.
  10. 1/48 Hobby Boss Su-30MK2 Venezuela AF

    Yes, incredible work Gianni. Exactly what I am looking for. I am tempted to send these to you, but I must give it a try if I shall improve. Four questions (hopefully not too overwhelming): - Are those acrylic or oil paints? - Second picture, the guys's face: Are the flesh tones airbrushed or handbrushed? In general, are these mostly brush painted? - My pilot's helmet. It will be white. Would you hand brush it, if so, what type of paint would you use? - By profiling do you mean a wet oil wash? I suck at creating "tones" for hand brushing but if that's what you mean, would you 'wet' paint those tones or would you 'dry brush' them? I don't know how to get those faded look between the tones with wet brushing.
  11. Pre-shading

    I also want to add the following: Deep inside, I believe many of us are actually not striving for true realism. We are after an effect. This invariably means exaggeration. The richer the variety of these effects are the better we deem a model is, provided that there is sufficient restraint in the effects. But at the end, it is all artistic. That's why we have these fads, and this includes everything I do on my own models. It looks great to me during the year I build them, but a few years later I ask myself "what was I thinking." That's why I personally refrain from claiming that I am after realism. I know I am not. However, I do want references of the real thing to guide my process of a purely artistic and arbitrary attempts at effect-replication. The following is from Mr. Barry Numerick, whom I respect tremendously. He is a 72nd scale modeler: "Weathering is very much a matter of individual taste. Some like accentuated panel lines, others don't. A wise modeler once told me that a real plane shrunk down to 1/72 scale would be boring, while a model increased to actual size would look like a caricature."
  12. Pre-shading

    I did that type of pre-shading a few times after coming back to the hobby 11 years ago. I first saw it on a youtube video, I was amazed by it. But I don't do that anymore. IMO, panel line pre shading has a tendency to look too quilted, especially if one relies primarily on this for weathering with no additional post-shading or blending. However, post shading of the panel lines alone is not ideal either. Here is an example of post shading done on the panel lines and rivets, which looks toyish: Back to pre shading: Pre shading alone can and should mean more than just panel line shading. Black basing is one such instance like others mentioned. Here are some examples of what I would categorize as pre shading: A marbled undercoat: Delineation of camo borders that are sometimes visible on the real thing as a darker, 'wetter' boundary. Preshaded then beaten up:
  13. Yet another 1/48 Tamiya F-14A (updated 21 Feb)

    Does the 1/48 Hasegawa Tomcat nose tip look fine also? I ask this because I see a difference between the Tamiya and Hasegawa tips, but no evidence to support it. It is just the look of the Tamiya 1/48. Looks drawn out and thin at the tip. Hasegawa's always looked fine to me. Interestingly, Tamiya 1/32 also looks fine.
  14. 1/48 Hobby Boss Su-30MK2 Venezuela AF

    Thank you Kike, Captain, Major! The fuselage is all ready for primer, but I have been spinning my wheels with painting the pilots. Below is what I have. Resin pilots moulded together with the seats. I primed and painted them in black for the seat. Then, I started brush painting with Vallejo acrylics (no pics) starting with the face, then the neck line for the undershirt, then the g-suit, then the white helmet. The helmet looked awful handpainted so I won't do that again. So I removed all the paint so it is back to the naked resin. Ready to give it another shot. My question: How would you paint this? I am now considering: Airbrush gray primer, brush paint face, t-shirt. Mask face and t-shirt with silly putty. Airbrush helmet in white. Brush paint g-suit, gloves, boots etc. Mask everything. Airbrush seat in black. Brush paint the head rest cushion. But I am super unsure about this. Is there a general order of things with brush painting such figures? Like inner layers first then outer layers, or paint everything to be airbrushed first then hand brushing? This is proving to be a major hangup.
  15. Yet another 1/48 Tamiya F-14A (updated 21 Feb)

    Looking great. Can you list the (top) three annoying or tedious part of this kit OOB build-wise? Maybe something you would do differently, again construction wise? I am yet to read a single issue with this kit, having a hard time believing that to be the case... Captain and to all the Tomcat experts reading this: The radome on this kit looks too pointed to me. IMO a more bulbous look especially towards the tip would look better. Does anyone else see this? Not bashing the kit or looking to start a red-line war here. Just figuring out how (un)trustworthy my observation is.