Janissary

Meng and HB both look nice. I bought the Meng kit. I remember reading somewhere that the HB wingtip AN/ALQ-218 pods had some issues (either shapewise or the alignment along the length of the tip pylon, can't remember). But that sounded an easy fix, so Meng and HB are probably about the same.

Thank you the pics help a lot and so do the links. The fan and the dimmer look nice and simple, which is what I want. I can attach a plug no problem. I wonder if the inline fan is truly a hazard with lacquers. I plan to use an air filter like yours. All would be airbruhed (as opposed to hosing a spray can). What are the dangers of an inline fan that a squirrel cage fan (which tends to be bulkier) eliminates? Also, you mentioned in your original post that the 239 CFM is more than enough and at times too much. I like that a lot, but have read elsewhere that a single 300CFM is barely

Looks to be a nice setup. Would you be willing to share the details of the fan you mentioned? I am looking for one. I am not sure if yours is squirrel cage or inline type. Any detail like brand, model, or a link would help. Also, how is the noise level? I have a bedroom right above my workbench. TIA.

The most realistic finish I have seen is here: Somewhere in there, Harry describes how he does it but basically a light metallic base, followed by a misting layer of a greenish or smoke like color (IIRC). I tried to do something similar, with inferior results here: FWIW, mine was a metallic base, then I took a fine brush, gently rolled it around the tip of a sharpie marker (green and purple), and tried to transfer that onto the metallic base tip. It should have been more subtle. Again, Harry's approach is the best I have seen, of course in my opinion.

yes dialing it down may help, at least that would be my first step. Also, keeping a ~45deg spray angle to the surface may help a bit rather than coming down perpendicularly if that is a factor. Finally, I find rubbing the surface down with a dry cotton t-shirt after the paint has cured helps knock down any of that 'dusty' finish. I do this before any clear coat regardless of whether I see a pebbly paint finish or not.

My guess is airbrush paint circulation around concave areas (vortices) is causing the paint to dry before hitting the surface. 20psi trigger down sounds too much to me. At least in my case, my static pressure (trigger up) is around 14psi tops, then down to 10-11 when painting. Your thinner ratios sound reasonable as long as in all those ratios the thinner is more than the paint (which I think is what you mean).

Then do it. Why do you keep asking questions you can easily find answers to using a simple google search? You got tons of replies to your questions and you are still asking trivial things. If you were serious about your original question, you would have already taken the responses and done something with it. Where is your common sense?

Thank you, it was a very enjoyable build.

I have found Parafilm to be the best solution. Before any painting, I deepen the groove between the tire and the wheel with a pin. Then primer, and black. Mask with parafilm, cut along the edge, remove the wheel side mask, paint white.

On behalf of everyone who has responded to your questions: You're welcome. Post harder my man.

If this is a statement, it is common knowledge. If it is a question, I don't understand it.

I future my canopies. Once fully cured, I use Tamiya green cap liquid cement to affix it. It does not fog up the canopy. If needed, I use Apoxie two-part putty to fill any gaps as the excess can be easily removed with a water moistened q-tip, hence not damaging future. Some use white plastic putty for gap filling, but I don't like the plastic putty as it does not feather out as nicely as epoxy putty does.

On FB, sometime last Spring, I has asked Raymond the following: " Raymond, if you are reading this, all you need to focus on is F-16A, and then 50/52 *double seater only*. Then 50/52+. That’s it. Do that and live like a king! He replied: Kineticmodel "the whole projects cover all version except the E/F, we even cover the Block 70/72"

By the way you keep saying C/D, but not sure if this means you are indifferent between the two. C is a single seater. D is a double seater. Tamiya has no double seater F-16. Kinetic is doing both single and double seaters.

Yes that is an F-16C. Most likely Block 52. But it has a parapack occluded by the AIM-120. I am not sure if you are looking for something super detailed and exciting, or just a Polish F-16C, but if it were me, I'd consider only two options: 1. Wait for Kinetic to come out with their 1/48 F-16C Block 52 and Block 52+ (if you want the spine and CFTs directly out of the box). This has not been officially announced but Kinetic's owner has indicated that these are in the works with their new (Gold series) F-16 line. 2. Get a Tamiya base, and add a whole bunch of AM to turn i