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Janissary

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About Janissary

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    Full Blown Model Geek

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  1. This is incredible! The attention to detail, colors, weathering, that exhaust area, diorama, photography... Simply wonderful. It's so good that I will not bother getting the kit myself. Whenever I get a Su-27 itch, I will just come here and look at the pics. This is the ultimate Flanker.
  2. So let me understand this clearly: You think all the unvaccinated deaths prior to the vaccines becoming available are thrown into the mix when reporting unvax death rates, say the 1st week of March 2022. Is that so? This right there tells me you have zero understanding how to read charts, what death rate means, what a moving average is. Even a simple glimpse at the charts would have told you what you are saying is literally impossible. You're like a flat-earther. You know it is B.S., but you also know all the talking points, so you think you make sense by throwing out words you do
  3. There are two separate issues that you and other are anti-vaxers keep conflating. Also you keep deflecting the discussion by bringing up unrelated issues to create the illusion that pro-vaxers are peddling their unsubstantiated beliefs on you. This is not the case. (1) On the issue whether you have the right not to get vaccinated. Of course you do. Everyone does. (2) Regardless of whether you are exercising your right to not be vaccinated, there are facts you simply cannot ignore. These facts don't care about your political stance, if it is morally right or wrong for
  4. Are there major external, cockpit, or ordnance differences between SEA, Euro I, and Hill Gray camo F-4Gs? For instance, is a SEA possible given the above Meng box? ZM offers the Euro I scheme which is also nice.
  5. If it were me, I'd pass on the tinted canopy. It is hard to get it just right (Tamiya's is too dark). Also, many two seaters have only the front half tinted and not the rear. I'd just let the modelers airbrush a thinned clear paint. You can even add that to the instructions (something like "Airbrush a mix of Tamiya smoke:clear yellow:X-20A in 1:1:8" whatever)
  6. I really like the surface detail. I hope it also fits well. I am desperately waiting for the D-Block 50+ (GE engines). Raymond, IIRC you mentioned over FB that this was in your plans. Any idea when we will get to that, or anything you can share regarding the order of versions you will be releasing?
  7. I find their "tweak list" pages to be quite useful http://www.zone-five.net/forumdisplay.php?s=be53a6aa2258428210ac58a75caca21d&f=114
  8. Yes that is exactly what I did. I glued the upper wing halves to the upper fuselage to get as clean of a seam as possible at the upper wing-fuselage joint. Basically trying to get one big upper half and then one big lower half and glue them (just like how Hasegawa F-22 is). I got the wings to lift up when I did that. I don't know if I was forcing to lift a little too much to lose the upper seam but whatever I did, it just didn't look right. Took a heat gun to it to flatten it out --> disaster. Anyway, just wanted to know if I did something wrong or if the dihedral wa
  9. Thanks for these details. They are enjoyable to review. One slightly off-topic question for everyone in the knowing: This is about Meng F-35A. When I joined the upper wing halves to the upper fuselage, I got a noticeable dihedral: https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Matthias-Steiner-3/publication/313202088/figure/fig3/AS:457055027896322@1485981818914/Dihedral-angle-on-an-aircraft-wing-Jackson-2001.png Granted, I did not glue the upper to the lower halves yet, so that may bring the wings down a bit, but I was surprised and started to question my assembly.
  10. I can't remember unfortunately. I don't have a lot of Alclad's. If I created lighter and darker tones of the pale burnt metal (which is the brownish base), I must have added Alclad burnt iron and thinned the mix to create light mottling. But the chances are I mixed a bit of Tamiya acrylic flat black with Alclad then thinned it with MLT, and then repeated the same with flat white. I have mixed these things in the past and they have worked ok especially because it is a very dilute mix anyway. What I am quite sure is that I did not use any oils, pastel / makeup sets, dry brushing, or
  11. Hey, assuming you are asking about the outsides: After Surfacer 1200, I sprayed Alclad stainless steel all over, then sprayed Alclad pale burnt metal. I may have then post shaded that with a few other similar alclad tones, but can't remember. Then, using a piece of Tamiya tape, I masked the hard edge of each petal and lightly sprayed Tamiya Nato black to the masked edge. That creates the darker lap regions between the petals with a hard edge one one side and soft edge on the other. I just used a single piece of tape and kept spraying and moving to the next petal. Finally, I very gently sanded
  12. Wonderful all around! Do you have a build log you can share? Also, how did you like the kit? I am tempted to start mine but 'frustration' is the vibe I am getting from all the build reviews I have seen. You must have put in a lot of work to get the mating surfaces flush and still keep the details.
  13. Looks awesome. So much inspiration... I especially love the colors, the BAM set, RBF tags and the nozzles.
  14. Yes but what about Niels's reply to that? Meaning, seeing the 120 on the inside and outside seems to be common (which I have also seen to be the case). With the jammer issue solved, is the choice random?
  15. I believe the correction was to the two-seaters (B & D). The area behind the canopy was a suspect in the original AFAIR.
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