Jump to content
ARC Discussion Forums
  • advertisement_alt
  • advertisement_alt
  • advertisement_alt

Janissary

Members
  • Content Count

    1,750
  • Joined

  • Last visited

7 Followers

About Janissary

  • Rank
    Full Blown Model Geek

Recent Profile Visitors

15,469 profile views
  1. That's funny; they cut through the power line instead of the long short-term memory model to create a new NTVW system in the trunk. Why they would pack that I have no idea.
  2. Hello all, an update after a long break. All the panels and rivets are deepened, cleaned, glued together, sanded, rescribed (where necessary). So this is the permanent assembly (everything glued). I wanted to share these pics to document the places that I ended up using putty (Bondo). Some of this putty was used to fix places the scriber slipped, so not all the red that is seen is a seam line. Just to see if my line/rivet deepening has been utterly unnecessary, I am leaving some of the panels/rivets untouched, specifically those on the Phoenix pallets and the wing pylons. I am curious to see how the rescribed vs the original parts look like after the oil wash. All in all, I've made this build somewhat challenging for myself rather than going with a quick assembly. Overall it's a great kit, but I've had some problems with the vertical stabs. They wouldn't sit flush with the fuselage and had to do a major surgery by cutting off the alignment tabs on the fuselage as well as sanding/enlarging the slots in vertical stab. It was definitely something I've never seen brought up by others, so it was probably something I did wrong. I like the Quickboost chin pod, it is extremely nicely done. I rescribed that one too though 🙂 I also got the Steel Beach tail braces (really nice) and the ECM blisters under the glove vanes. I think the blisters may have been 'sided' and perhaps I attached them wrong. The aft ones seem to be sticking sideways a little too much. I CAed them, so don't want to mess with them any further. I wish somebody could paint the pilots for me. That's something I am so bad at. I will be starting my third attempt with them soon!
  3. Yes, the GE engines. Are there close-ups, or better yet, drawings of the triangular DEWS antennas on the side of the cockpit? I want to make a master for it.
  4. Between the Kinetic and Hasegawa 1/48 F-18C, I chose Hasegawa for my next build. I gathered quite a bit of ordnance for it in AM though. I have built Hase's in the past and the tricky points have been mentioned above. I did come up with a solution to it as seen here by deviating from the instructions (install the engine housing to the bottom fuselage first) and placing a spreader for the lower half: http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/258352-148-hasegawa-f-18c-30th-anniversary/&do=findComment&comment=2450154 I don't have the Kinetic, but from what I can tell looking at Doog's video review, it is a little fiddly (9-10 episodes in total I think, but worth watching): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GFFZcTdRv-w Kinetic's weapons are great though. So if you want an OOB loaded model without AM or going with your spares box, Kinetic is the way to go.
  5. Also, as a point of reference, here is how XF-20 looks like: https://modelingmadness.com/review/mod/us/leef15.htm As mentioned by the author, it is the lighter color at the bottom.
  6. 307 and 308 are great IMO. I use them a lot. For the darkest gray the code is H337. But that is a little off as I mentioned earlier (too purplish). If you checkout my 1/72 Tomcat and 1/48 F-18F builds in my signature, you can see all these colors in both scales. Now, I use Hobby aqueous (acrylic, or acrylic lacquer whatever they call). But Mr. Hobby (pure lacquer version) is very similar to these from what I can tell from many other builds I have seen.
  7. I have no experience either, but sounds like surface tension is at play here. Applying it to the less shiny side is the right way, but seems not enough. I suspect thinning the glue with water etc. will just make it worse like stated above. But, after you lay down the foil, isn't there the step of burnishing it? I would imagine that, that action will iron out any bumps there might be there, meaning you will have resolved the issue. My guess is that the glue may need not be uniformly spread on the foil.
  8. XF-19 may work for light ghost gray (I would add more white and a tiny bit of blue to XF-19), but I strongly urge you to reconsider XF-20. XF-20 is a tricky color. The color pallet above is highly deceiving. In real life, XF-20 has a distinct beige tinge to it. Nowhere near dark ghost gray. It looks like a dirt gray, with a hint of earth tones, not sky tones. I would say if you lighten XF-20 with quite a bit of white, it may pass as 36440 Gull gray for the pre-TPS Tomcats.
  9. To the best of my knowledge: - No acrylic bottles for 320, 375, 327 - There is a new lacquer line: https://www.tamiya.com/english/products/list/lacquer/kit82103.htm That at least has the 320 and 375. 327 won't be too difficult to obtain from 320. Need to darken it a little bit and adda tad bit of blue. In general, if you insist on acrylic, Hobby Aqueous has all three colors covered. Though, their 327 is not a very good match (too purple IMO). But there are other new lines such as MRP lacquers, and AK acrylics, the latter looking like Tamiya for the most part. MRP has the TPS covered. Not sure about AK and too lazy to google.
  10. To answer your question, looking at a 1/72 model 1 ft away is roughly* the same as looking at the real thing from 72 ft away. *Habu's way of thinking is the right way to go. At the risk of being overly pedantic, see the pic below. It is a top view. Basically, when you are going up and down the scales, you want to keep theta unchanged. Say the length of the airplane is 60ft (length) and you are sitting 100 ft away from it (dist). If the length was made 6 ft (imagine a 1/10 model), distance would need to be 10 ft to preserve the same angle. This is a simplification though, and does not take into account things like camera field of view etc. if all this is about photography. Also, if it is about the level of detail you would see on the scale model (e.g., to make an argument for or against rivets), this type of simplification is not going to capture everything at play here (especially if theta is wide, i.e., distance is short relative to length, as then you would need to think about the huge difference between the closest point on the airplane to your eye vs the farthest point, the amount of detail will be very different). For the most part, it is a good approximation though.
  11. What an unfortunate generalization. The line between thick and thin skinned does not run along ethnic or cultural borders, neither does other stereotypes many people casually bring up. The notion of "face" is present in all cultures. I have been fortunate to befriend and professionally work with people from many many different cultures and ethnicities. These types of generalizations are false and very harmful. I know you probably did not intend it to come across this way, but it does. I have had mentors as well as students from China, so did my father back in his day. None of what you seem to imply is accurate in my experience.
  12. The ortho view surely doesn't help here, but I do see a glimmer of hope. I think it has been reworked quite a bit (not as curvy anymore). The bag looks a little odd, but perhaps do indeed look that way when fully inflated.
×
×
  • Create New...