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Janissary

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Everything posted by Janissary

  1. Both kits sold ----------- I am selling the following items, sold individually. PayPal please. (1) 1/48 Zoukei Mura F-4D: Kit: https://www.zoukeimura.co.jp/en/products/sws48_07_f4d.html All sprues, instructions and decals in their unopened original bags. $93 shipped anywhere in the lower 48 U.S. (2) 1/48 Meng F-35A: Kit:https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/image/10467597 I removed and neatly cleaned up some of the pieces. Glued a small few of the pieces. $39 shipped anywhere in the lower 48 U.S. Or feel free to mak
  2. I am selling my 1/48 AMK Kfir C2/C7. Here are the deals of the kit: https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/image/10232681 I bought this brand new from a local hobby shop a few months ago. I removed some of the pieces and neatly cleaned them up (ready for painting). The only parts that are missing are the drop tanks on the wings. The central drop tank is still there. I am asking for $30 shipped (within U.S.). Or make me an offer... PayPal preferred. thanks.
  3. They look awesome. Great reference pics too. The cans are superb. You also had a Hasegawa version of a similar scene going on too IIRC. I hope you haven't given up on that. That was incredible also, and particularly all the tricks you had shared with the cans.
  4. Color match vs sheen match are two different things. The easiest way to do what you are trying to do is to decant the can and airbrush it. Only then should you expect what you spray through the airbrush to match what is in the can. Anything else has many parameters that would be hard to dial in unless you did endless trial and error. The context matters too. If you have a large area of already painted yellow (can), I can see blending in a different yellow (LP) by spraying more broadly beyond the target area and later clear coating to brig everything to the same sheen.
  5. I am curious to hear about the missile selection and firing process. So if there is a captive on the left and live on the right (going by the article), when the pilot gets the tone and fires, is this primarily human error or the result of computer picking the missile? To expand on it, for say two Aim-9s on either wing, is the responsibility of the pilot to pick one specific one (i.e. left vs right), or is the selection computerized as long as there is a tone?
  6. I occasionally do this by mixing Tamiya flat acrylics and their X-22 clear (around 1:1, or a little heavier on the paint). Then thin the mix with X-20A. This gives a slight sheen to an otherwise pretty flat finish. I wouldn't try to turn a flat paint into gloss this way, but is ok for a slight sheen. My main concern with heavier and thicker applications would be the different curing and shrinkage rates of the paint vs clear. It can cause cracks in the final finish.
  7. If it were me, I'd use the red Bondo which can be found in automotive stores. It sands and feathers much better than anything I have used, and can be used to cover large areas (automative putty after all). But if you have already applied something else, and are concerned about the mismatch in surface porosity / reflectivity, yo ucan apply a finer putty on top of what you applied (I'd suggest Bondo again). For rescribing, I'd try to avoid anything that has a pointy tip (like a pin scriber) or that has a v-shaped grooving profile (like UMM's rescriber). Most putties would either chip
  8. Thank you all. Very useful info, the kind I've been looking for. I need to digest all of this and come up with a game plan.
  9. That's great, just the info I needed! So I'll refer those scoffing at my mad riveting of my Meng F-35 to this thread ! :)
  10. I am trying to understand the details behind F-35 surface fasteners. In pictures of primer-only F-35s. these are immediately visible as black dots. However, these are nearly impossible to see in painted F-35s. Towards the bottom of the following link, you can see what I am talking about: https://www.scalespot.com/onthebench/f35b-ita/build.htm And here is the relevant pic from the above link: Reading a bit more, I came across this Quora page: https://www.quora.com/Why-do-F-22-and-F-35-stealth-fighters-still-use-pop-rivets-to-join-the-skin-to
  11. U.S. Navy Cruise Books here: https://www.navysite.de/cruisebooks/index.html This is accessible through the link kurnas posted above. I have found very useful info there including flight deck pics, ordnance, squadron markings, and even port stops.
  12. Interesting. The closest existing kit would be Hasegawa baed on part count. But I am unaware of Hasegawa letting their kits reboxed under a different brand except for ProModeler F-4 and A-4. Has there been many others? Also, don't want to get all geo-political, but not entirely sure if Hasegawa would do this with a Chinese company. I'm leaning toward this being a new tool.
  13. If you mean act like you, perhaps you'd be happy to know that I use examples likes these to teach my kids how not to be. Getting back to your original question. Yes, the hobby is dying unfortunately. Agree with your astute observation that brick and mortar shops are shutting down. Kitty Hawk just went belly up. Testors paints got bought up and is discontinued. Kids are trading pokeman cards rather than baseball cards. If I were you, I'd hang it up and move onto something else.
  14. This line of thinking is so flawed I'm surprised when it comes from people with life experience. So you did everything your grandparents used to do? Why can't you see that what you're saying about the kids today, your parents and grandparents were saying the same about you. Taking yourself as the point of reference and measuring everything else relative to that is like saying the sun revolves around the earth. Just odd....
  15. Thank you Mirek, Thadeus. Much appreciated.
  16. Your humor is just like the KH kits; defies logic, common sense, and quality.
  17. I built the Academy bombcat about 10-15 years ago. It was actually not too bad. The panel lines were ok but the kit was otherwise somewhat bare detail wise. The nose looks odd. Nice selection of ordnance and I remember the decals being real nice. If I found it for $15 or less at a show or something, I would consider buying it just for the ordnance. I had the HB -A but sold it off years ago (so never built it). A lot of rivets on the wings and horizontal stabs that looked out of place. To me, the biggest issue with the HB kits that goes unnoticed is the MLG. They are too tall. That
  18. Thank you! Still a few things that need to be improved, but overall I'm glad I now have this Stinger sitting in my display cabinet.
  19. Thank you. For the blue bombs, I used a 1:1 mix of Tamiya XF-2 (white) and XF-8 (blue), maybe a little heavier on the white side. For both bombs, after the main blue, I did a little bit of post shading with the airbrush using slightly lighter and darker tones of the main base color. Then, for the -31, I did a little bit of sponge chipping with green. For the -12, after the main color and shading, I did a little bit of oil weathering using dots of white and brown at the top, and pulling them down with a mostly dry brush.
  20. Hello, I am looking for this decal set: https://www.scalemates.com/kits/model-alliance-ma-48174-tornado-at-war--270471 I am only interested in the Saudi markings, so a partial set that has all the Saudi pieces would be fine. Thank you for looking.
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