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C. Alan

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About C. Alan

  • Rank
    AF target maintainer
  • Birthday 08/10/1973

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    JBSA
  • Interests
    Old Cars
    Model airplanes and Armor
    US history
  1. Back in November, my family made the big move from California to Texas. Before the move, I started to build a Dragon Marder II (kit #6262). Once I got my family settled, in the new house, I started working on it again, and tonight I made a terrible discovery. I have some how managed to loose the transmission during the move. Now being that it is an interior part, I normally wouldn't worry much about this, but the Marder II is an open top design, and you can see right down into the drivers compartment. I've emailed Dragon customer support, but I don't have much hope that they will sell
  2. The problem is that I used Model Masters Enamel Insignia White (gloss) over my normal gray primer. I put on one coat, and found more flaws I wanted to fix. So I sanded those areas and fixed the flaws, but when I went to repaint it, I found that I couldn't match the paint around the spots without putting a very thick coat on. Also I found that gloss finish didn't match that round it. The lesson I took away from this was when you shoot gloss enamel, shoot it all at once. The paint just looks thick... IMG_1471 by C. Alan, on Flickr I am really wishing I had used Tamiya Acrylic on this one
  3. Hmm... There are more choises than I thought. I am going to try the ELO first. I think I can get it at my LHS. The painit is MM enamel, and is on pretty think. --C. Alan
  4. Question on the easy off: will it just strip the enamel paint? I have lacquer primer under it.
  5. I'm sure we have all reached the point with a model where something has gone terribly wrong, and you have to choose whether to try to salvage it or just move on. I am at that point with a Hasegawa 1/72nd scale YF-4E I picked up a few years ago just because it had Edwards markings. Well I tried to paint the fuselage with Model Masters gloss insignia white, and the end result is very splotchy, and pretty unacceptable in my book. So my options at this point are to try to salvage the model by stripping the paint off of it, or to get another Hasegawa F-4E kit ($15 on amazon), and use my decals o
  6. Thanks, They weren't that difficult to paint. I did have to guess at the colors though.
  7. So, the Government is shut down and I am furloughed, so what do I do? I dig way back into my small stash, and pull out the Academy 1/48 scale T-33 I started 2 years ago, and never finished. Over the last couple of days, I turned this into very much and experimental bird: first finish with Alclad Aircraft Aluminum over gloss black, and first try at homemade decals. First, the inspiration: IMG_0663 by C. Alan, on Flickr I spent 5 years working in the desert at Edwards AFB. I passed this gate guardian just about every day near the test pilots school. I have done some work with the museu
  8. I have a few 1/48 scale aircraft kits I would like to clear out. First is a Czech Model XP-77. If you have not seen this kit, it is injection molded body with resin cockpit and wheels. The box is unopened. I am asking $15 shipped. The second kit is the Hasegawa F-86F-30 Saber 'U.S. Air Force' kit #07213, with an Aires aftermarket cockpit. The box is opened, but the parts are still in the bags. I am asking $32 for this one shipped. The last kit I have is a Tamiya P-51b kit #61042. The box has been opened on this one, but the parts are still in the bags. I am asking $25 shipped for thi
  9. Lowered the prices by including shipping in the cost.
  10. I'm not building as much as I used to, so I have decided to get rid of some kits, and sell my Pace spray booth. The spray booth is a Pace Peace Keeper 24" super min (you can see it on their website here). I have only used it about 4 months, and it is pretty much like new. I am asking $200 for the spray booth (it retails for $360). However, I don't have the shipping box for it, and it quite large and heavy. So I can't ship it. I live in Tehachapi California, so if you are in Southern, or Central California, I might be able to meet up with you if you want to purchase it. As for the Kits I
  11. Alclad states up front that you have to use a primer for their paint, and it is due to the fact that it will disolve plastic. I use alclad only with my spray booth, that pretty much handles the fumes issue.
  12. I have been using it for about 6 months in my Paasche VL airbrush, and so far I have not had any packing issues. However, the cleaner does not sit in the airbrush like it did in my cleaning station.
  13. I got an unpleasant surprise tonight. My Iwata table top air brush cleaning station has pretty much bit the dust. I can only atribute it to leaving alclad airbrush cleaner in it overnight one too many times. The threads that hold the plastic top to the glass base have rotted out, and the top will no longer stay screwed on. Im not sure what is in Alclad airbrush cleaner, but it will eat plastic to no end. So take this as a warning, if you use Alclad airbrush cleaner, make sure to clean it out of your cleaning station after every use! --C. Alan
  14. Well I finished it tonight. In the end, I think this model is a best a '5 footer' for the simple reason that this model was the first time I have tried to make some of my own decals, and also used future on a canopy. Unfortunatly, the canopy didn't get dipped until after it was painted, and some of the scratches and flaws got sealed in with the paint. I also elected not to try to do the panel lines on the model for two reasons: 1. I think my future coat went on too thick, and I could not get paint to hold in the panel lines, and 2. Most T-38s I have seen are well washed and taken care of
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