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Old Man

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Everything posted by Old Man

  1. While the family resemblance between the I-16 and I-15 is clear, the later biplane versions were much more strikingly similar. And so I thought I would do an I-15bis, the first mass-produced I-15 variant. I remembered, too, that I had bought on many years ago at the shop, well before I was even building models again, having seen it while there with my daughter to get supplies for a school project, and thinking I would have killed for a model of such a subject when I was building as a kid. It was the first kit I bought there, and the first for ages, and when I got it home I took one look at it
  2. So I thought then, I will build one of the biplanes. The I-16 is often described as the successor to the I-15 biplanes, but actually they were simultaneously designed, and early I-16 types were produced en masse before any model of the I-15 biplane was. The original I-15 was not very popular in the Soviet air service; visibility for landing was particularly poor, and it was fragile owing to extreme care taken to lighten its weight. It was, on the other hand, spectacularly manouverable. Less than four hundred I-15s were built, with almost half being shipped to Spain. But I wanted to do a Soviet
  3. The build that started it was an ICM I-16 type 24. My local does not stick a lot of kits, and they are mostly modern types, or the most popular WWII items. I did find this on their shelves, however, several years ago, and snapped it up immediately. It is finished as the machine generally described as that of Lt. Safanov of the 72nd Inependent Fighter Regiment (a naval formation) at Murmansk, though it may not, in fact, have actually been flown by him --- he was, however, photographed standing beside it. There is some question what was actually on the starboard side of the machine. It In any ca
  4. I got a bit sick around the end of last year, leaving some projects unfinished. When I got better, I wanted to do something simple, a good kit out of the box, and get it done pretty quick. I also wanted to put a new build up in the case at my local hobby shop, and wanted it to be a kit I had bought there. This led me into a bout of building Polikarpovs, step by seemingly reasonable at the time step. After six weeks, this was my bench: Wife did the dragon over-looking it all; it is folded up from a printed sheet, and I rather like it.....
  5. Measuring off the airfoil-section of a reliable 1/72 scale drawing, Sir, the wing is 1.5mm at its thickest point. The wing has a fairly heavy camber, however, and the trailing edge is 1mm below a datum line, while the thickest point of the wing is 1.5mm above that same line. I would begin with 2mm styrene sheet. Once it was cut to basic shape (best a little over-size), score it at about the mid-point of the chord, and bend it a bit along the score. Fill the score with a hard filler (CA gel, Milliput, that sort of thing). Get some serious cutting grit sand-paper (220 or even larger). Tape some
  6. Here you go, Sir: This is from WWI Aero Magazine, but I do not recall which issue. A period drawing, here http://www.finemodelworks.com/arizona-models/reference/Thumbs/Aircraft/Great_Britain/Martinsyde/Martinsyde.html gives some further structural detail (second from the top, profile).
  7. I will look through my things, Sir. I did a scratch-build of a G.100 myself a couple of years ago (in 1/72), and have a cuple of interior photographs tucked away somewhere. This is Lt. MacKay's machine, at Baku in September 1918, with Dunsterforce. The only difference between the G.100 and the G.102 is the motor, the former having a 120hp Beardmore and the latter a 160hp Beardmore. The real tricky part is doing the cowling: the front is open, so you can see the engine, and there are some large openings through which you can see day-light, including around the junctions of the cabane strut
  8. I will be doing a Curtiss Hawk of the Chilean Air Force in the late twenties/early thirties of the last century. This was the first export fighter order Curtiss booked, for a total of sixteen machines, eight P-1A in the first batch, and eight P-1B in the second. P-1A P-1B The build will be mostly a scratch-build, though I will be employing w
  9. Are you sure, Sir, it is an Arab, and not an Hispano-Suiza? I ask because the Bristols sold to Mexico, Spain, and Greece at about the same time as Peru purchased its handful were equipped with Hispano-Suiza motors. Only a very few Arab powered Bristols were ever completed, and the motor performed so poorly it is hard to see any still being functional several years after they were built. The Hispano-Suiza installation and the Arab installation do look pretty similar.
  10. Roden, Sir, did a kit in 1/48 of the Sunbeam Bristol. A bit expensive for a '3-D' reference, but sprue shots and such might give you what you need. There is a Windsock Special in two volumes on the Bristol, my vol.2 covering the post-war usage has nothing on the Sunbeam variant, but the first volumn might. If you do not have it already, this seems a very useful picture for your purposes....
  11. The front is painted, Sir: references indicate a medium grey enamel paint was employed. The roundel colors would be the usual 'bright' tones in gloss paint of the pre-war period. Indeed, all the pants emplotyed here seem to have dried shiny.
  12. Hawker Demon, 74 Squadron, Malta Camouflage, 1936, based on Airfix kit:
  13. This was finished a while ago, Gentlemen, but I finally have pictures. I have been laid up for the last couple of weeks with a very bad and persistent cold, that has put paid to the chances of finishing the Curtiss and the second Gladiator before the deadline. More pictures will be in the 'finished' thread. Best wishes for the New Year, Gentlemen!
  14. Definitely interested in a CBI/Pacific group build!
  15. CBI for me, Sir! A great range of subjects there, and much of it pretty well-worn....
  16. Definitely interested in a China-Burma-India build; I have several subjects to hand.
  17. RS Models, Sir; It is a Hawk II, a Goshawk (F11C-2). Good model; it is available in several boxings, each with multiple decal options. I have a set of the Cuban decals I will never use, if you cannot find that particular boxing (or, for that matter, want to build a Monogram Goshawk in that scheme).
  18. Great news about the date, Sir! I just today managed to track down enough information on the Chilean Curtiss Hawks to make that a viable project. Found an article from the Chilean Aerospace Museum on the topic on-line; it nails down questions of markings and sub-types and usage I had not yet been certain of.
  19. Any word on a final start date for this?
  20. That, Sir, is a slick tip I will be remembering....
  21. Painting is just about complete, gentlemen: I think the white needs one more thin coat, and the borders need dressing in a few spots still.... I was able to find an out-of bottle match for the orange, and used something in the PollyScale range called Soviet Brown #2.
  22. I hope you have good results, Sir. I, too, like this kit very much. One thing I have in mind for one is conversion to a Cyclone variant. Allow me to recommend foil for the bare metal examples; it is not so difficult as many suppose. Nothing looks quite so like metal as metal.... This scheme is 'off-brand' even by the standards of the time: it was purely for display at the National Air Races, and not part of any manouver or exercise.
  23. Upper wing went on very well. I am using a slightly different order here; rather than painting everything and then assembling, I have left the wings in primer only when attaching the struts. This lets me dress strut joints without worry about damage to a final finish.
  24. Here is the mid-way point in putting on the canopy: the front and rear pieces are fixed in place, the middle piece has been trimmed at bit fore and aft to fit in,but is simply resting in place here. The framing of the front piece had to be altered a bit, with extra frames for later armor glass removed.
  25. The one piece lower wing fit very well. So did the front decking piece; almost no filling was necessary at the joints with the cabane struts. The moulding on the cowling is very nice. The kit is moulded with a set of very large (more than a half millimeter in diameter) holes for passing rigging thread through, which have to be plugged.
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