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Everything posted by MickeyThickey

  1. Stevens won't do diddly unless you purchased your kit from a retailer Stevens supplied. And even then the chances are remote. I'd go back to wherever you bought the kit. Hopefully they can either exchange the kit, or get you a sprue from their suppliers, or whoever distributes Trumpeter in the EU. I'd also try contacting Trumpeter again. Could be the e-mail slipped through the cracks, could be they'll just send the parts without a reply (like Revell).
  2. Actually it's not. It comes with the featherless plastic exhausts and PE feathers to go on top, as can be seen on the PE fret at the top of the package. So you can do both. Though, as mentioned, you'll need to do more than swap the exhausts for an accurate F-15I
  3. http://www.luckymodel.com/scale.aspx?item_no=FU%2072133 shows the breakdown. And yes, the kit has *massive* and uncorrectable shape issues. It's really Starfixian in it's wrongness.
  4. That's old info - the Fox One relationship is over, and acrimonious. Ben says they stole his artwork after low-balling payment, AM claim he was a pain to work with and they sourced their info elsewhere. Whatever the reality is, the AM kit won't be coming with an official Fox One decal sheet.
  5. "Merry Xmas" on a Huey gunship... So would this LITERALLY be the war on Christmas?
  6. You want to know the helo's ID. Seriously? As in, the big white 751HC along the tail? It's 751HC. Google that for registration info and details of the helicopter. Googling 'Intermountain Life Flight' will also turn up info.
  7. http://www.missionmodels.com/product.php?productid=16462 ...and the two ring tools: http://www.missionmodels.com/product.php?p...=313&page=1 http://www.missionmodels.com/product.php?p...=313&page=1 Although I'd just use (thick) styrene sheet or rod. personally.
  8. ...or somehow bash the AIM or AModel kits with Trumpeter's... But that's too horrible to even consider.
  9. And unfortunately, none of the Trumpeter kits will work for the Indian Navy jets - their Tu-142 sub-type would need a revised tail and underfuselage fairing, among other modifications. I had hoped to do the same thing, but no dice. As Dave said, there's many differences between Tu-95 sub-types, and many differences between Tu-142 sub-types, so lots of differences between one Tu-95 sub-type and one Tu-142 sub-type. The Polygon Tu-95/-142 book has good coverage of the major versions (as would any other Yefim Gordon book/article).
  10. Come on now, let's not get crazy saying stuff we'll regret later. :lol:
  11. Those are going to be a ******* to install - nothing against CA, just the way the Scooter's wells are designed (ie. the roof of the well is the skin of the wing) - lots of sanding, paper thin plastic, paper thin resin. Like adding AiRes bays into Hasegawa's kit... only more so. And the instrument panels are naff.
  12. THat's probably what I'd go with. Maybe spice it up with a bit of chrome or stainless steel.
  13. Not entirely true - late boxings of the Nato 50th and Monogram 50/52 had tinted sprues. Not sure when it happened, but I have copies of each kit, both ways. In fact, I *think* my 'tinted' Nato 50th kit had both clear and tinted clear parts sprues. Tornado kits... the Gr.1 was, I *think* (again), the last version released. Black Thunder and Spirit of Boelcke came first, then I'm pretty sure it was the ECR, followed by the Gr.1 - though it *may* have been Gr.1 followed by the ECR; they both hit locally pretty close to one another. Frankly, I'm more disappointed that they haven't done a Luf
  14. Ooooold review - it was written just under five years ago (the anniversary's coming up in two weeks, actually...), and published at Roll Models just over four years ago - May 7, 2004. There have been three (four?) new boxings of the kit since then, each going in and out of production. And FWIW, the A and B versions of the kit are in stock and on sale at Luckymodel.
  15. The member profile view just shows recent activity. Click on a username while viewing a topic to bring up the pulldown menu - view profile, add friend, send PM, find topics, find posts. Click on 'find posts', and they're all there. Clicking on your name to find all posts brings up 41 pages worth of stuff, dating back to 2005.
  16. Not entirely sure what you're asking... If you mean the wings, no, they're stitched around the edges, with rib tape fastened over top - so basically, nothing visible. If you mean the fuselage, yes, it's laced along the bottom. Pic that sort of shows it here: http://memorial.flight.free.fr/gallery/DR1/fok19.jpg It's not really a simple scribed seam though, but two pieces of fabric, laced together. Sort of like this: http://www.internetmodeler.com/2006/decemb...tion/DVII-5.jpg So if you want to be accurate, you might want to pick up a sheet of PE stitching or lacing. Not sure exactly whic
  17. So I guess now we know what the new name is. And that it doesn't mean new/better product. Not even a new pic of the stuff - just slap a new product number over top. Very greasy indeed.
  18. It's like Phantom and Bizarro-Phantom. :) Digging the re-paint - looks much better to my eye.
  19. Nope. Entirely different engines. Only thing they have in common, is that they lack turkey feathers.
  20. Correction: it was AFTER Pro-Modeler (the PM brand started in 1996), just not a Pro-Modeler release.
  21. Man, have times changed. The photo you'd have seen in every Western news source, 20+ years ago: The photo you'll probably see today:
  22. Yes, pastels must be applied on flat/matte paint. They'll just blow right off of gloss paints. (imagine using pastels to write on paper, vs. glass - not very effective on the latter) Doesn't have to be over a 'flat coat' - it'll work on straight, flat paint - but it does have to have a flat finish one way or another. A subsequent clear coat *will* alter the pastels. Sometimes it will make the pastel work more stark. Others, it'll tone it way down. Depends on the pastels used, the paint it's covering, and which way the wind's blowing. Light, misty clear coats will minimize the change (I
  23. Dark grey pastel. Sand on some fine grit sandpaper, or scrape a knife blade along the stick to make a little pile of dust, then dab on with a paintbrush or Q-tip. The pastels will be delicate - they won't handle well and will show fingerprints - but you can vary the lightness by adding more (or lighter) pastels, and it will add effective, subtle tonality. If handling will be an issue, a light coat of clear will seal them in.
  24. That was updated a long time ago - ten years anyway, probably closer to fifteen (in fact, a quick check on RMS suggests it was fixed in 1993, so yeah, fifteen years ago). The split windscreen and decent landing gear were added at the same time. How can you tell if your kit is pre- or post-improvements? I dunno. Obviously if it's got a late-90's or 2000's date on the box, it should be good, but if you're buying on-line, I have no idea. If you're buying from an e-tailer, it's probably safe to assume it's 'new'; if you're e-baying, ask them to check, I guess. As for the Goffy sets, here's
  25. The kit *does* have some inaccuracies, though they're primarily in shape/contour subtleties, not major dimensions. Most notably, the engine bulges around the aft fuselage are generally considered to be somewhat 'off' (not Starfix bad, but not 100% dead-on accurate). So the short answer is, in this specific case (wing area), the drawings are probably wrong.
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