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Vidar_710

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Everything posted by Vidar_710

  1. Engine assembly is done before epoxying it to the model. Glued in then beaten into submission to blend it into the model. The KASL engine was not made for this kit, so it had to be convinced. Top Bottom One the other hand, the radome part DID come with the kit, yet it extended almost a 1/16" all around. So, it had to be sculpted back and feathered into to the fuselage. Starting to look like and F-16...
  2. Small update. 15 brass static wicks installed, 6 per wing and three on the tail. These come from Master-Model. A little clean-up is still needed. The tail installed first re-enforced with a wood screw through the top of the fuselage into the base of the KASL resin tail... I don't trust CA glues. The top half was finally cemented onto the bottom assembly... TERRIBLE FIT! It will need being beat into submission to prep for the wings being glued on. Curing over-night before I grind away at where the wings glue on.
  3. Wrapped up the exhaust. Ready to close up the fuselage, but a few things to do first... Gun port was pathetic, so... before. After. Final main wheel wells parts installed. A small dilemma. As I waited on a replacement seat, I thought, "what the heck", try scratch building new seat rails and try to blend them in... First seat by Black Box on the left, and CAM's earlier version on the right. Which one should I use? On to closing up the fuselage!
  4. External details on the engine are coming along. Below are two strips of white decal painted Grey ready to be cut into squares. Each pedal gets a thin square at the end, and a fat square at the base of the nozzle assembly. Once the decals cure, I'll apply the washes and finish to unify the surface
  5. I will be doing this on my 1/100 and 1/144 707's, and 720 builds. You've seen my threads I'm betting. All my engines are on and filled prior to priming. You have to have a plan on what you're painting first, then work in layers. You'll see that I already started with the Coroguard on a couple of them first. That will be masked off, then I'll start in with black and blue basing for the bare metal surfaces. Those get masked off then I move on to the White and Color phases. Tracy
  6. Pre-basing the external engine exhaust areas... Special mix for the turkey feathers, and a few grey panels to the base for added details before adding metalics. Tracy
  7. Thanks guys... CJ, I used Model Masters Sand as a base then added drops-at-a-time of SAC Bomber Green until I got a close match to my reference material. Tracy
  8. Basic paint on the ejection seat Excuse the pics from here.... For some reason they turn out dark. After the clean-up of the dark wash, the dry brush work was applied. Cockpit tub completed. Since this Black Box cockpit was not made for this kit, a ton of changes had to be made to both the kit and the aftermarket piece. Here, I added Sculpting Dough to fill in the cavities around the tub to secure it into position better. There were just a few gluing points, which concerned me, so this really locked e
  9. Hey CJ Oh no, I still use Apoxie Sculpt. Imaging trying to free stand sculpt with the foam to repair the tail I showed here on page one. The Free Foam is great for filling in large and small gaps then smoothing them in leaving very little sanding. Both products are also considered an adhesive. So, you're getting more construction support in assembly. Interior turkey feathers are mostly done. For some reason, my phone camera doesn't show the tan colors I blended in that well.
  10. Shifting my attention to the "business End" of the jet... Preliminary basic colors applied to the parts. The White ceramic finish of a brand-new engine. Next, layering in the oils for the Can section... There's more to a Burner Can than White ceramic and black soot. The Turbin/Flame holder are finished. Can Assembly complete. The first layering is done for the inner turkey feathers. Black and grey soot next... Tracy
  11. WOW, these pics do not do this justice. The contrast is nowhere near this bad in person.  Much more subtle. Start working on the tub soon. Damn thing still doesn't fit right. Tracy
  12. Sanded and feathered into place... until I drop the damn thing again!
  13. A little detour in the build... Well, I dropped my KASL tail assembly. The resin they use is very brittle, but it really presents fine detail. As you can see the front tip snapped off. Need to dig up some sculpting skills to replace it. First, I drilled two holes and made the bottom one a trench to give the Apoxie Sculpt and anchor. I mixed a small batch of Aves Apoxie Sculpt and worked it into the holes I drilled and applied the amount I roughly needed. Then I refined the shape to the contours of the tail.
  14. MRP Black Primer applied Little clean up now that I can see the errors, then the color goes on. Tracy
  15. Phot-etch installed and replaced as well as added additional rivet and fastener details lost in the sanding process. Prime and paint when everything fully cures. Tracy
  16. Main Instrument hood filled and sanded in. Photo-etch for the canopy seal details to go...
  17. Main Instrument Panel hood installed... Some refining to do. Mail Call!!! Replacement details damaged or removed from installation arrived. Tracy
  18. Done with the turtle deck - save a few small added wet transfer rivets and brass details. For those concerned about what tail is going on this build... A slightly modified KASL F-16A/B tail should do it. 😉
  19. Styrene trimmed and sanded to shape... Due to the different colored mediums, I chose Green filler so I can see it during the sanding process... Tracy
  20. The OLD Black Box cockpit set does not fit too well. It's a bit small so some adjustments had to be made... Here strip styrene and Aves Apoxie Sculpt was added so the tub fits the contour of the cockpit area. Moving on to the Turtle Deck, I had to scratch built the extensions to add detail for an open canopy. First, extend the deck Then add the inner walls Next, the outer walls Finally, cap off the openings up front. After everyth
  21. Forgot to add that the Wheel Wells, have been primed and painted gloss White. Detail painting to come...
  22. This kit is terrible! From what I can see, it's a badly distorted version of the XL based on the old Hasagawa F-16A kit. So... I'm going to try to fit a round peg into a square hole throughout this build using aftermarket sets that are not designed for it - None have been created. This kit comes as Closed Cockpit only. Lucky for me, I have a couple of Hasagawa canopies in the parts box. This means I have to do some hacking at the cockpit tub. Instrument panel hood removed for aftermarket tub. I also cut into the fuselage to accommodate the Hasagawa canopies.
  23. Awesome stuff as always Shaw! Glad you're on ARC. You always pick cool subjects to study. Tracy
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