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spejic

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Everything posted by spejic

  1. The weathering on this is really nicely done. The pilot figures are really exquisite.
  2. I never got it myself so I'm not sure, but the Super Fox requires the two A-4M fuselage sprues which gives you the properly shaped rudder with the ALR-45, and the larger A-4M intakes. And you need the front fuselage of the E/F, which happens to be attached to one of those main fuselage sprues. I assume Fujimi was able to switch around the kind of front fuselage and rear fuselage that came on that sprue, because the A-4KU boxing (which I did get) came with a A-4M front and a A-4E/F rear.
  3. They've already released some a few years ago, like the A-4M and OA-4M. They are adding new ones soon, like the TA-4J with some cool decals. This is all good news for A-4 fans. Hopefully they keep releasing new ones eventually. The only one I really want is the A-4F Super Fox, but that seems a bit unlikely. It was released by Fujimi, but only a limited release at a higher price. Which was just about the non-inflation-adjusted price of a Hobby 2000 A-4M and a A-4E together. I guess I talked myself into it.
  4. Wow. The Academy is a re-release of the ancient LS kit, which is an F-15A and a very bare bones one at that with no pylons, cockpit, or anything really. You did an intense amount of work to turn it into a two-seater and bring the details up to the modern era. Your pylons really look good, and I really like how you modified the tail booms. Really great work. Are those third-party seats or did you scratchbuild those too?
  5. That looks really cool. Is that the clear version or the opaque one? How do you handle the windows?
  6. Those F-35C's are showing a distressing inability to get dirty.
  7. I love the combination of the sharp construction and paint job with the haphazard nature of the touchup painting. Beautiful model.
  8. The kit is definitely a product of its time and your details really improve it. The cockpit and pilot make a profound difference.
  9. Here's one of the pictures. This is 2010, so it looks like it got beat up pretty quickly and needed to be re-touched with regular paint.
  10. This isn't the first attempt at this. The Marines put a shiny metallic coat on both Harriers and Ospreys around 2009. Don't know any details about the experiment, however.
  11. Wow, these really look like they stepped out of the 1999 universe instead of looking like props. Nice work.
  12. This looks really nice, especially lit up. I was wondering how you found those all-over decals. The idea of it scares me, especially the ones on the saucer. I'm afraid I'll get to the last pie slice and find its grossly out-of-alignment to the first one.
  13. I like this a lot. I'm a big Area 88 fan, but I've never built an aircraft from there because the lack of markings usually makes for a very dull airplane. But you put in enough warning decals and little details that it still looks interesting.
  14. Your model is just stunningly beautiful, and the video was clear, entertaining, and very informative. There was lots of information that will be useful to me in future builds. Thank you for posting.
  15. Very exciting. I've been waiting for this aircraft in a small scale for a long time.
  16. Both of these look really nice, especially the impressive metal effect of the surface. I'm always partial to models that actually do something, and seeing it actually swim makes it another order of magnitude more impressive.
  17. If it was an acrylic gloss or flat clear coat, you can remove it by slowly rubbing the canopy with isopropyl alcohol. It will eventually come off. You may have some fogging when done, but applying a gloss clear over it again will remove it.
  18. I really liked seeing this. Well, I like seeing every Skyhawk, but yours is nicely done. It kind of combines a worn feel with a technical style, the latter of which is helped by those large sharp decals.
  19. There are only so many ways to design a modern stealthy fighter. It's going to have two canted tails. It's going to have features like the chine along the sides. It's going to have a wing in roughly that form. It's probably going to have a diverterless inlet. Just look at all the other stealth fighters being developed, like the Korean KF-X or the Indian AMCA or the French-German one. The only choices are to have horizontal stabilizers or not, and to have two intakes on the sides or one on the bottom F-16 style, and if they did it on the sides everyone would be saying they were copying the F-3
  20. I like it. I won't like painting one. Maybe one of the nations that import it will put a reasonable paint scheme on it. It would look good in an Indonesian colors.
  21. I really like building small scratchbuilt details and the filling and sanding stage. I like that far, far more than painting. I have dozens of kits built to the primary paint stage and they have been sitting like that for years (some for tens of years) waiting for me to build up the desire to mask and paint them. I don't finish many kits that way, but I do what I love.
  22. I recommend switching to Microscale Decal Film. It isn't yellow, and it makes a much thinner final product. It's a little bit more effort but your model will look better. For decals I print on an inkjet, I spray a thin layer of the Decal Film using an airbrush (I thin it with acrylic paint thinner) and when it is dry I brush a layer on top. You can't just airbrush a full protective layer because it will get foggy, and just brushing will probably smear the print. I find that one brush layer is sufficient for a black decal. For something with lots of magenta ink (like the
  23. F-35's have some EW capabilities as well.
  24. The fumes are not good for you. I'd definitely be careful of that while cleaning.
  25. Think of it this way. If you go to an airshow and take a picture of a parked aircraft, and then make a 1/72 diorama of the aircraft and a model you taking a picture of that aircraft 1/72 the distance away, then the hypothetical photos taken by you and the model you will look the same.
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