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Giovanni

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About Giovanni

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    Tenax Sniffer (Open a window!)

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    ITALY, NORTH EAST

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  1. Hi Gabor, unfortunately I couldn't come. But I won't miss the next edition. Giovanni
  2. Mini update: The bulge at the base of the rudder had been removed and recontoured using plasticard, putty and sandpaper. In the last picture the result after a coat of Mr. Surfacer 1200. Bye Giovanni
  3. Thank You Jeff! I'd like to have a good f-102a but I don't want to spend too much time on it. So I'm going to fix just the most evident shortcomings. Let's see! Now my little update. With some more putty the radome contour is finally ok: Next step had been thinning the air intakes splitter plates: Here's a dry fit test. The overall fit/coupling is excellent (as for all the other parts in general): The recessed lines are a weak point being a little too deep. This is more evident in some areas. The worst part is the tail section with its craters and wide and deep demarcation lines which aren't compatible with a natural metal finish! There's no choice here rather then fill in and re-scribe. Note: There are two bulges in the kit at the base of the rudder. Beside the fact they are overdone (and I'm wondering if I have to try to fix or let it go)...You should erase the right one since was not present in reality. Fortunately that's an easy task: Other parts needing a fix are the wing fuel tanks pylons which are inaccurate. I've seen two different lengths models in use with the later model been shorter. By the way the pylon is inaccurate also to represent the earlier type according to me. Here I'll have to cut and recontour. Also the details should be repositioned. Probably the fastest way should be to scratch a new part. But this will came later. Now I'd like to go on with fuselage. That's all for today. Giovanni
  4. You're welcome! I'm happy if I may be of help. Let's start the construction beginning from the radome. The one in the kit is good but not perfect and can be improved with patience and a bit of sand paper. It should be a little bit more pointy in the aft part. This is more evident in the top view. That's easy to correct. It also misses some volume in the profile view in the central area. You can brush some thin layers of Mr. Hobby dissolved putty to add the extra volume and then use a 1000 grade sand paper to turn the surface smooth again. If you don't feel confident with such operations I have to say that turning the aft part a bit more pointy is enough to get a good radome. The missing volume is almost unnoticeable. On mine at this point I put the pitot and placed to the fuselage to test the result: In the area were the Master pitot meets the radome there's still some putty needed. But the result is more than OK to me. What about the Quick boost replacement radome? Well that's incorrect too! In my opinion it's too much ogival. I think the right shape lays in the middle between it and the kit part! If you have already procured it well you can do the opposite operation as described above and make it less ogival by sanding it. I think in general it'is easier to reduce volume than to add it so this could also be a solution. The following picture shows the Quick Boost radome, the original kit radome and the one and other reworked by me: And the following a top view of the same. Note how the kit part needs to be thinned: I hope this info could be of help for your Meng kits. More updates tomorrow. Bye Giovanni
  5. Hello RCarlson, hello Laz. Thank you for showing your interest. I used a Kyocera Taskalfa 2552ci laser printer, which proved to work very well with black color. As all the printers for home and office it works with the fine dithering technology with color. This means that the color is obteined trough the use of just three basic color (cyan, magenta, yellow) printed in small dots. The result is more than acceptable if you want to reproduce dark colors (other than the three basic) but the result isn't good with lighter shades, greys etc. So in general if the subject is small you can try to print with all colors but for larger areas you have to try and see the result first. Additionally you cannot print the white color so for istance the badge had been printed on white decal film. This means you have to carefully cut the subject out from the sheet before using it. (that's the reason why I produced some back ups!) I've starded to work on plastic parts, so If I have time I'll post something later. Bye Giovanni
  6. Hello dear modelers! I'm currently working on some new projects one of this being a Delta Dagger. I'd like to represent a 57th FIS machine -the famous Black Knights- which one not decided jet but surely -in ADC grey -one of the William Tell 1972 participants. If You can recall it...it's a real classic with the striking high viz colors and the art on the external fuel tanks representing a black knight riding an f-102a siluette and chasing an escaping bear! The kit: The extras: Master excellent pitot, Quick boost resin sets... Reskit excellent wheels, Pavla resin cockpit set. Some useful resources: I spend some works about decals: There're several producers offering this subject on their range...Xtradecal, Print Scale, Fundekals and last but not least there's an old Microscale sheet. I purchased three sheets in the following order: First the Microscale (on the left side of the following picture-partially used by the previous owner), then the Xtradecal set (on the right) and to conclude the Fundekals sheet together with its stencils (sold separately-in the centre of picture). I found the Microscale sheet not to be up to date to today's printing standards but was and is very accurate and the closest to the subject I was looking for. A pity was to discover that the black knight art was printed in dark blue color while in reality it was black! And the 57th badge was very bad printed even if a very accurate match to the one sported on the f-102a tail: So I purchased the Xtradecal sheet and found myself really disappointed about its accuracy. There's few good in this sheet as we'll soon see So to conclude after doing some researches I decided to purchase the Fundekal sheet even if I knew the knight and bear logo was missing in it. I purchased it basically to find good alternatives for the fin badges. And to say it all in this set they are the best I found. But still I was not happy so I was in the middle of the act of buying also the Print Scale decal set when I thought: I'LL DO IT MYSELF!!! I first worked on the 57th fin badge and the result is the following: I started from a picture found on the web reworked with Paint and converted with Inkscape. It has been a major achievement over all the others as You can see on the next comparative picture: I still have a soft corner for the Microscale one which would be perfect and better than mine if a better printing technology had been available when it was produced in the eighties! The same I did with the knight and bear logo as you can see here by (note also how inaccurate and undersized the Xtradecal logo is): So here my complete decal set: From the Microscale sheet I'm going to use just the afterburner flames That's all for tonight. Hope to get you interested in following my new project. Bye Giovanni
  7. And this cool too. Cheers Giovanni
  8. That's really lovely! Cheers Giovanni
  9. Thank You guys You're gentle! Giovanni
  10. Hello Craig I'm going to represent 64-0949 again in ADC grey in the scheme used in the early 80'.
  11. Thank You Major Walt! Hi all, gents! The canopy is complete! And the model too. Soon some more pics in the display case sub-forum. Thank You for supporting me and help developing this project. As usual it has started as a fast build and then turned in a much complex job. I'm really happy about the result. As I said at the beginning of the build this kit has a great potential and is joyful in the end. I wish to express my gratitude especially to Mr Craig Baldwin for all the precious suggestions and for sharing original and unpublished photographic material. I hope this build could be an inspiration for other modelers. I would like to see many other Voodoos in different livery! So now it's your time! Next project is going to be an f-4D Phantom from north dakota ANG Happy Hooligans, Hasegawa 1/72 scale. So see you again soon. Bye Giovanni
  12. Hi guys let me thank you all for your help about the canopy detail. Dear Craig, your precise description of the subject together with a new consciousness on how it worked gave me a new sight for it. So I checked again all the available pictures and also some new I found following Euge's suggestion about exploring aviationarchives blogspot. Even if I couldn't find a good detailed picture I've found some low-res ones and some others in which the electrical motor is partially visible and I think I can now do a decent replica of all the mechanism. Beside this that will probably be the work for the weekend I have to announce that the airframe is externally complete since tonight I made the last missing bits: Angle of attack sensor… Small side pitots (I think so but I'm not sure. Some source reports these are also A o A sensors but according to me they aren't)... I'll show You also a rare picture I found of the pointy "dog cock". If you go back on page 5 you'll understand. Use this as a reference if you want to improve the parts of the Revell kit. What I've personally done at the time was just based on Baldwin's description of it. Thank you all for the support and kind messages! Giovanni
  13. Hello Laz, thank You! Revell kit has the potential for doing this! Anyway a new mold would be necessary since there are several issues in the kit. First some detailed pictures of the lowered flaps. The original attachment points had been removed so the alignment had been trickier. Earlier in the build I did a lot of dry fitting tests and placed some holes as a reference so in the end all went smoot in here. Here a picture I took time ago in which you can see the original simplified attachment points just removed: Here You can see the new ones: The voodoo flaps had a complex deploy mechanism. It was hinged on four points and operated by an hydraulic actuator: A plause to Revell who did an excellent detailed job here! Yesterday evening I attached the emergency arrestor hook together with some antennae: The red light on last picture should be replaced by a vacu-formed one. Let's see … because I'm thinking at new projects. Here I've already spent much energy I think. So what's missing out? Two small pitots for the nose sides and an AOA sensor! Much of the work remains for the cockpit interior. I need HELP in here! IF YOU HAVE PICTURES OF THE CENTRAL BRACET EXPECIALLY WERE IT MEETS THE REAR COCKPIT PANEL I'll be really pleased to take a look. The hinging point remains a mystery to me. And also the function of all this assembly since the canopy acuator is at the back of radar operator seat as you can see (sorry to the owner for borrowing it)! So thank you if you can help! Bye Giovanni
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