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About Giovanni

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    Tenax Sniffer (Open a window!)

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  1. Please ignore my previous. Now I see. They are different. They have made a mistake in the decal placement diagram (or in the decal sheet numbering). Sometimes is better to trash the instructions and use our experience...
  2. Use #30 #32 on the upper side and #31 #33 on the lower. Or are they of different area? If they're identical it will work. Giovanni
  3. I'm sorry for the decal issues. If I may suggest use water when placing the decal and setting solutions in a second moment when it's in the right place. Waiting for news. Bye Giovanni
  4. Very nice and i teresting built. Giovanni
  5. I've darkened a littele the exterior ring. In the meantime the kits are going to be two. Bye Giovanni
  6. Hello, a little update: I've modified the afterburner inner part with some plasticard stripes to have a ring more similar to the real one: Finally started with some color: Glued the parts together and dry tested the result on the fuselage. Not the best I've done but I like it. That's all for tonight. Bye Giovanni
  7. Hello Gents, I resume this build with some updates: To create the parachute compartment you have to remove some plastic as for the following picture: This way You'll get the desired result: A great effort had been spent detailing the exterior of the rear fuselage. All the panel lines had been re-scribed and all the bolts finely reproduced: I love the natural metal areas and I want them to be perfect! Switching to the burner can there's a resin replacement available from Wolfpack but I opted for using the kit parts instead with some minor improvements: First carefully using a razor blade I separated the exhaust ring from the inner side of the aerodinamic bulges (in red on the following picture): Don't mind the gaps You'll get on the ring. These would be invisible once all is assembled: The variable inner exhaust part has been cleaned from its placement pins: I've added a reinforcement element on the exterior of the ring by stretched stirene: All elements had been thinned a little: Here's what You'll get: With the right use of colours I think the part will suit very well. Soon more updates since I'm still working on the subject Bye Giovanni
  8. Hi, without using too many words that's a beauty. Congratulation Giovanni
  9. Hello Sebastian I always admire your skills !!!! Impressive Job Giovanni
  10. Hi Gabor, unfortunately I couldn't come. But I won't miss the next edition. Giovanni
  11. Mini update: The bulge at the base of the rudder had been removed and recontoured using plasticard, putty and sandpaper. In the last picture the result after a coat of Mr. Surfacer 1200. Bye Giovanni
  12. Thank You Jeff! I'd like to have a good f-102a but I don't want to spend too much time on it. So I'm going to fix just the most evident shortcomings. Let's see! Now my little update. With some more putty the radome contour is finally ok: Next step had been thinning the air intakes splitter plates: Here's a dry fit test. The overall fit/coupling is excellent (as for all the other parts in general): The recessed lines are a weak point being a little too deep. This is more evident in some areas. The worst part is the tail section with its craters and wide and deep demarcation lines which aren't compatible with a natural metal finish! There's no choice here rather then fill in and re-scribe. Note: There are two bulges in the kit at the base of the rudder. Beside the fact they are overdone (and I'm wondering if I have to try to fix or let it go)...You should erase the right one since was not present in reality. Fortunately that's an easy task: Other parts needing a fix are the wing fuel tanks pylons which are inaccurate. I've seen two different lengths models in use with the later model been shorter. By the way the pylon is inaccurate also to represent the earlier type according to me. Here I'll have to cut and recontour. Also the details should be repositioned. Probably the fastest way should be to scratch a new part. But this will came later. Now I'd like to go on with fuselage. That's all for today. Giovanni
  13. You're welcome! I'm happy if I may be of help. Let's start the construction beginning from the radome. The one in the kit is good but not perfect and can be improved with patience and a bit of sand paper. It should be a little bit more pointy in the aft part. This is more evident in the top view. That's easy to correct. It also misses some volume in the profile view in the central area. You can brush some thin layers of Mr. Hobby dissolved putty to add the extra volume and then use a 1000 grade sand paper to turn the surface smooth again. If you don't feel confident with such operations I have to say that turning the aft part a bit more pointy is enough to get a good radome. The missing volume is almost unnoticeable. On mine at this point I put the pitot and placed to the fuselage to test the result: In the area were the Master pitot meets the radome there's still some putty needed. But the result is more than OK to me. What about the Quick boost replacement radome? Well that's incorrect too! In my opinion it's too much ogival. I think the right shape lays in the middle between it and the kit part! If you have already procured it well you can do the opposite operation as described above and make it less ogival by sanding it. I think in general it'is easier to reduce volume than to add it so this could also be a solution. The following picture shows the Quick Boost radome, the original kit radome and the one and other reworked by me: And the following a top view of the same. Note how the kit part needs to be thinned: I hope this info could be of help for your Meng kits. More updates tomorrow. Bye Giovanni
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