Crash Test Dummy

So, I've been building since the 70s and currently own around 20 airbrushes, so what's your point? You either don't understand how an airbrush is supposed to work or are failing to effectively communicate your problems. WTF, dude, why are you bringing up a trigger limiter now when you've never mentioned it before? A trigger limiter has nothing to do with any of this, leave it wide open while troubleshooting. Many airbrushes do not have trigger limiters at all. The trigger limiter on modern airbrushes limit how far the trigger can be PULLED BACK to avoid spraying more paint

@dai phan I can only repeat what I and @Bob Beary have already told you. A properly set up double action airbrush is down for air, back for paint. If you get both air and paint pushing down, the needle is not seated correctly. It must close off the nozzle with the trigger all the way forward. I don't care how your other paint brushes work, they are also apparently wrong and you never learned the absolute basics about airbrushes. You have no control of paint initiation if the paint is spraying at first push of air and this also encourages paint buildup on the needle that leads to tip dry and sp

@dai phan With the Tamiya HG-SF (I have one as well) It should not behave like that. Did you just take it out of the package and shoot some paint through it? For shipping many of the better airbrush companies will not have the needle fully seated to prevent damage to the nozzle in shipping. You need to loosen the needle chuck, slide the nozzle forward all the way with then tighten the chuck. Properly set up an airbrush should be no paint with just air and you have to pull the trigger back to start paint flow. This is for any airbrush. If they are spraying paint without pull the trigger back,

I didn't know you have the NH, that's a different story. The head is different using a drop in nozzle without the Teflon washer like the original model I have. Badger now refers to the the old style as "Legacy". I got mine for Christmas in 1980 when I was a kid. You still probably have a leak around the base of the nozzle where it seats into the body. It would give the same symptoms. A smear of Chapstick around the base of the nozzle should seal it up. If that works you might consider replacing the head. Badger 200NH head top, Badger 200 Legacy bottom. The washer I was talking abou

I've seen this with my own Badger 200 and I use CO2 that's a constant pressure, so it's unlikely compressor related. I found the Teflon head washer (Badger PN:50-055) is leaking. Allowing air from the airpath into the paint path. Pulsing and difficulty sucking paint into the brush are symptoms. If it's bad enough you can get bubbles into the paint cup. Teflon doesn't rebound as much as rubber, so it gets crushed into place to seal. Eventually it doesn't seal as well. Taking the Badger head off for cleaning all the time just accelerates this failure. Last time I had this happen I ha

I've got about a dozen or so airbrushes, mainly Iwatas and Badgers with some odd balls like the Grex TS3. Depending on how confident you are in troubleshooting an airbrush, serious money can be saved buying used off eBay. The HP-C+ isn't really much of a difference over the Eclipse, 0.3mm vs 0.35mm. Both are general purpose airbrushes with a big paint cup. The only reason I don't have an Eclipse is I already have an HP-C. For a detail brush you should be looking more at 0.2mm or smaller. In the Iwata High Performance line these are based on a smaller body shell and come with smalle

The Karaya sets only include the standard pylons common to most modern F-16s. They do not include AIM-7 501 pylons. Kinetic has them in some of their F/A-18 kits on their AIM-7 sprues. You might try Kinetic customer support to order a couple sprues, but I wouldn't hold my breath. While this sprue has an F-16 pylon I don't think they ever included this in any of their F-16 kits. I'm nearly certain they haven't been in any of their new mold kits and I never cared enough about their first attempt to keep track of what they did with any of them.

I don't know if you're joking. Hasegawa A-4Bs on eBay are expensive because they were always a limited edition and somewhat rare. There hasn't been a A-4B release in over a decade. Sellers can price them at whatever they want and people will pay if they are desperate enough. Hobby 2000 is buying sprues direct from Hasegawa that are newly made for their boxing. Hobby 2000 gets the sprues from Hasegawa and decals from Cartograf, provide their own packaging, mask and instructions. Sell them at a price to make a profit, but not so expensive people avoid them. The initial one o

Buy whatever's cheapest. Is this for thinning or cleaning? I thin paint with hobby thinner and clean with cheap stuff. I use KleanStrip Lacquer Thinner from Home Depot for cleaning. I haven't run into anything it won't clean, including a few eBay airbrushes that I have no idea what was in them. It also never crossed my mind to use it for thinning paint for the airbrush. For paint thinner I'd either stick to the recommended thinner for your paint or Mr. Color Leveling thinner if it's compatible. I only use paint I can thin with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner so I don't have to stock a

I wouldn't assume anything from a manufacturer. I wasn't aware the Block 20 was an A/B combo. I've kind of ignored that one waiting to see what Minibase's kit. Since the OP asked about GOLD kits I was only commenting on Gold kit releases and didn't want to confuse things like you have by bringing up the first gen kits.

Its should have them. I'm glad it does. It provides positive locating for pods. Shaving off a couple lumps is the least of the issues with these kits. I still see a fair number of built kits that builders left them on because they don't know any better.

This is incorrect for the F-16 kits. Kinetic has different sprues for single seaters or two seater kits. They have not issued a kit that could do A/B/C/D. It's A/C or B/D. 48105 builds any of the two seaters. You need 48146 F-16C Texas ANG. This has the parts for any Block of the single seaters. AFIAK 48105 and 48146 are the only kits so far with the MCID intake and GE engine. These become "universal" kits where the others are limited to only PW Blocks.

VRC-50 US-3A "Miss Piggy" would be very welcome. I've got the US-3A kit in the stash and lack of decals has been a big roadblock.

ADFs in Foreign Service. Italy use to operate the type and had a couple specially marked planes. Jordan, Pakistan and Thailand currently have them in service. Pakistan uses a unique camouflage pattern. Jordan's went through the MLU program and can now use Sniper pods and LGBs.

Buy a couple glass pipettes or eyedroppers instead and just clean them out. I've bought eight eyedroppers over 35 years and the only problem is the rubber bulb will wear out after a couple decades or so.