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Everything posted by datahiker
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I'm constantly struggling with this. Lately it seems I've been doing more repair work than constructive progress, so that every session I'm fixing something that didn't go well the last time instead of just pushing forward. It's also really hard to start up again when it's been put off for months because life got in the way. I would really, really love to build a contest-worthy model but I've come to realize (over and over) that I just don't have the skills or time to do so. The good news is that my stash is small so I don't feel I have to complete them on any kind of time line to get my m
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I don't think you have to use advanced search. I use this term, straight from the Google search bar: site:arcforums.com whateverI'mlookingfor
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I spoke out of ignorance. My apologies, Paul!
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I'm pretty sure Paul is using an ALPS printer, for which you can get white ink. I believe they're out of production now (at least the MD series) but they can produce fantastic looking decals.
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That's gotta be the understatement of the year. I think it would take a considerable amount of time just to catalog one scale of one genre, like 1/48 U.S. WWII bombers, especially when talking about adding aftermarket pieces, which tend to go in and out of production on a regular basis. Good luck!
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I know for fridge motors that's because they are sometimes moved on their sides or backs, in which case you definitely need to have the fridge upright for a while so the oil can migrate back to the compressor. If it's moved upright or slightly tilted there shouldn't be an issue. As for the airbrush compressor, I would imagine the oil sloshing around wouldn't make much of a difference and you'd be able to use it immediately as long as it wasn't tipped over during the move. Disclaimer: I am not a small motor expert, so anyone else with a different experience is free to correct me.
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Awesome paint job, dude!
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Those are two questions with a short answer of "It depends", but here goes: It all depends on how much you thin the paint. Thinner paint requires less pressure. I'm guessing most people spray at 20 psi or less (as low as 10 psi if the paint is really thin). How much you thin the paint depends on what brand you're using. Some can be used straight from the bottle while others are a sludge that need more thinner than paint to spray. If it's too thin it will "spider" on you and run all over the place. If it's too thick it will dry before it hits the model and leave an "orange peel" or pebbl
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My big (unfortunately multi-year) project is a 1/35 Academy UH-60L. It burned me out, so I started a pet project. Here's the beginnings of a 1/72 Italeri Ka-52 Alligator. Cockpit with tape belts, scratchbuilt IP, collective, utility lights and ejection handles: Trying to fix the exhaust/IR suppression: Drilled out the rocket pods, which still need to be cleaned up:
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He beat me to it. That's one of the most realistic armor models I've ever seen. Great photography, too, by the way!
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I completely agree about the aerosol part. No matter what paint is used a respirator and adequate ventilation are a must when spraying. That being said, I honestly feel acrylics are, in general, safer. Why? I can use water or alcohol to clean up acrylics. Enamels require more toxic chemicals for clean up. I still use enamels when I have to but I've been pretty happy with how acrylics turn out. This hobby has plenty of opportunities to kill brain and lung cells with all the other solvents, cements, glues, putties, paint strippers, homemade concoctions, etc.
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I can disassemble and reassemble my Iwata HP-CS blindfolded and upside-down and finish before my nose starts bleeding (compliments of "Major Payne").
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Ain't that the truth! That's when I start seriously considering tearing up all the carpet and installing solid white tiles.
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How much of a perfectionist are you in your modelling?
datahiker replied to gaz262's topic in General Discussion
Ditto. Unfortunately, for me this tendency leads to models in a "never finished" state. There's always something else that can be fixed, tweaked, modified or scratch-built. -
To strip down paint to the plastic, I use Easy-Off Oven Cleaner (just watch out for the fumes and wear a respirator if possible). I'm sure others will chime in with Simple Green or something else. Spray it on, wait a few hours, then use an old toothbrush to get the more stubborn stuff scrubbed off. Future sprays very well at low PSI. You can also brush it on with a little practice. Hopefully this won't turn into an enamel vs. acrylic flame war, but acrylics aren't as difficult to use as you might think. The hardest part is getting used to how quickly they dry. And undoubtedly, someone w
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Good luck indeed. I don't know of any Snowspeeder kits that match the scale of the MPC/ERTL AT-AT. The Battle on Hoth diorama is the only one with an AT-AT and a Snowspeeder you could use together, unless you can scratch-build one like George said.
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I still have most of them on videotape from the original run! For me it jumped the shark when they became a Special Forces unit.
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Need information which airbrush is good. Iwata or Badger?
datahiker replied to Youngtiger1's topic in Tools 'n' Tips
Back flushing is what happens when you put whatever you're using to clean the airbrush in the color cup, seal the front of the airbrush with your fingertip and hit the trigger. Air gets pushed back up into the paint cup and can help clear the airbrush of paint when cleaning. -
What, no Princess Bride? It's full of hilarious one-liners! Other than that, Blues Brothers, Animal House, Holy Grail, and Office Space.
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I agree. Fabric paint is your best option and you should be able to find a variety of colors.
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Hopefully you found some consolation at the Dixie Chicken . . .
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Windows 7 at work (and love it!), Linux at home (yeah, I'm a computer geek).
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Medium power lens. Sorry, it got cropped a little.
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Some of these pictures are phenomenal! I'm not even an amateur photographer, but I love trying to take pictures through my telescope. This is from a crappy point-and-shoot Canon, not even mounted to the 'scope, just hand held up to my low-power eyepiece:
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What happens to these models when we're gone?
datahiker replied to SteveH's topic in General Discussion
Most of the models I build are for other people anyway (kids and adults). Anything else can be trashed, which doesn't bother me because they aren't show/museum-worthy by any definition. Same with my stash - I buy cheap models (Revellogram, Italeri, etc.) so they're better off getting donated to a local club when I'm gone. I like tornado's idea - if I manage to get one kid interested it would be worth it. A friend of my wife's came to visit and brought her three kids. The ten-year-old came down to the man cave and his eyes lit up when he saw kit parts all over my desk. I let him pick out