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datahiker

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Everything posted by datahiker

  1. Decals look best when sitting on the smoothest, glossiest surface possible. If you put a decal directly on a flat coat of paint you'll risk the decal "silvering," which is caused by tiny air bubbles sitting between the decal and the paint. For the exterior of the model most people put a coat of Future or other clear gloss on first. You don't need to do that for the cockpit though. After removing the decal from the backing paper you can carefully dip it in Future and then apply it (using the Future itself as a setting solution). Make sure you wipe up the excess Future. Using a q-tip or so
  2. It sounds like you need to thin the paint. Since it's enamel you'll have to use paint thinner. Put some paint on a palette or even a plastic lid. Add some thinner to the paint (whatever you do, don't add thinner directly to the jar!) until it's about the consistency of milk. It should brush on more smoothly and not dry so fast.
  3. It sounds like you have the basics covered with the laminate floor and lots of light and power. Running water would be awesome but difficult unless the pipes run right past your work area. I know some people who have magnetic whiteboards or tackboards to keep instructions and reference pictures pinned up. Other than that, lots of shelves for paint and all the other stuff we tend to accumulate.
  4. I've heard 1/72 referred to as "Gentleman's scale" and 1/48 as "Quarter scale." Braille scale appears to refer to either very large (>=1/35) or small (<=1/72) depending on who's talking. What other nicknames have you heard? "One true scale" doesn't count since I don't want this to devolve into a what-scale-is-superior war.
  5. I have a dehumidifier but it's because I build in the basement, which needs it anyway.
  6. I don't do commissioned builds. Almost everything I have on the workbench is a gift for someone else: 1/35 Blackhawk for a friend who flies one 1/35 Tamiya U.S. Army figures as a co-build with a friend of the family's kid 1/32 Anakin's Pod racer for a birthday present for a different kid There's a 1/48 SR-71 and B-17 in the queue for my stepfather-in-law (worked at Bell Labs) and grandfather-in-law (who was a bombardier). I just tinker with "my" builds here and there and never really finish them, but that's OK with me.
  7. I have three kids and two other time- and money-consuming hobbies, so, no. I'll stick with Revellograms and the like and leave the rivet counting for others (not that there's anything wrong with that ). It's not like I'm entering them in contests or anything. It's hard enough coughing up dough for aftermarket items when I really want them.
  8. This is about as detailed as it gets.
  9. Wow! Awesome job! Makes me want to go build some armor...
  10. I've got a 6 y.o., 4 y.o. and 16 month old. The only spare time I have right now is late at night when everyone's in bed. Most of my modeling is shoehorned in about 20-30 minutes at a time, which is OK for building and puttying/sanding, but makes it really hard to airbrush anything. On weekends I'll brew some coffee and try to get some work done. I hate the taste, but it gives me the extra "oomph" I need sometimes. Once he gets older it will get easier, so be patient. My only advice is if you're really tired, don't bother. I've had quite a few sessions dedicated to fixing everything I
  11. So THAT's why my models turn out the way they do! I'm 37.
  12. My 2 pennies: CGI and fancy special effects can't improve poor writing, acting or directing. The effects added to the Special Editions and inherent in the prequels clutter the screen in most cases (In best monster truck rally voice: NOW FEATURING EVEN MORE MORE MORE ALIENS AND SIGHT GAGS!!!) CGI has its place. But using effects as the main focus in a movie instead of plot just doesn't do it for me.
  13. Not bad. I could use a spare needle and a tune up. Thanks for the info, Huey Gunner!
  14. What does Coast Airbrush charge for a tune up?
  15. I agree with janman - you don't need an airbrush right now. I think you'll see the greatest improvement if you start off with these three things: 1. The layer(s) of paint look thick. Thin your paint and brush multiple light coats (waiting for the paint to dry between coats). 2. Like the others said, get used to filling and sanding seam lines. I hate this process more than anything else, but it's an essential skill. Search the Tools and Tips forum for "putty" and you'll get everyone's opinions on what works best. 3. When you're ready to put decals on, brush a thin layer of Future floo
  16. Welcome, Pyro-Rob! You'll find a lot of friendly people here ready to help when you need it.
  17. Another vote for Easy Off oven cleaner. The only paint it hasn't worked on (for me) is flat black that has already cured.
  18. I agree. The adhesive seems to be pretty low tack. I've had them on for months at a time with no aftereffects.
  19. 1/48 Testors SR-71 off ebay . . . and bills {sigh}.
  20. You'll have to play with it. The cheap stuff can disintegrate easily, but you don't want it overly thick either. The tissue paper will snug down quite a bit so it may take two layers, but no more than that (I would think). Good luck!
  21. Yes, Elmers is the most popular brand of PVA glue here in the States.
  22. Thanks, Mark! I'm going to try this as well.
  23. Thanks, George! I'll make a run to the hardware store within the next couple of days to see if I can find something similar. I'm working on the Speederbike but also on Anakin's pod racer, which has the two long, skinny hoses from the engines to the pod.
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