datahiker
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Posts posted by datahiker
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Try collecting gold and silvercoins then and specialize in bullion coins like sovereigns, maples and eagles.
C`mon, give it a try and then come back and complain about modelling. B)
Yeah, but at least you're ready for when paper money becomes worthless!
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Firstly, The last time I went to Buffalo was about 20 years ago and it was a cross border run for gas and beer. So I'm not very familiar with the area. Secondly SWMBO is coming so I have to limit myself to 1 place as far as Hobby Shops go. Need to know the best place for shopping (clothing and electronics) something close to the border as we will be going back to the Casino on the Canadian Side.
For the Clothing and Electronics I'm not fussy nor is my better-half but the Hobby place has to be one stop shopping with a good selection of kits (aircraft and armour) AM and supplies.
Thanks in advance!
Emil
If you can, Niagara Hobby & Craft Mart at 3366 Union Road in Cheektowaga is a good LHS, but it's on the other side of Buffalo. I live in the 'burbs so I'm not familiar with other shopping opportunities near the border, sorry.
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Well, I just saw from another thread, I think it was "for a smooth gloss coat or finish", not totally sure. In that thread someone mentioned that thinning Future with windex or any ammonia based fluid would attack acrylic paint. Please, can someone help on this? The future/windex idea is working very well but I don't want my paint job to be ruined by this mix. Anyone had any acrylic (or any paint for that matter!) paint crazed or attacked when thinning Future with Windex???? Thanks.
I haven't had a problem as long as the acrylic is completely cured. I'm only adding a drop or two of Windex, though (enough to break surface tension), and I apply light coats.
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If you need parts for Revell/Monogram, here's the site.
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I have a HP-CS too. It could be any number of things, but it may just be the nozzle still has some dried paint stuck in it. I love the airbrush, but it's a bee-yotch to clean.
Try soaking the nozzle in thinner for a little bit. Use interdental brushes to clean it out.
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I actually have two cross-action tweezers, but one is too soft and one is too hard (they were gifts). I'll check out the Tweezer Bee and the Wiha tools.
Thanks!
:P
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I usually use tweezers like this to hold small parts while getting them positioned on the model.
Unfortunately, if I hold the part too loosely it will slip or fall out. If I hold it too tightly, SPROING, right into the carpet.
Is there a trick or tool that would do better? Tweezers with flatter/wider tips don't seem to do much better.
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I did a double-take when I realized this was 1/72. Awesome job!
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...The REAL irony is that I betcha the guy didn't have to 'afford' that M-B; it was probably a 'perk' that is being covered in the cost of all those many dollars of compensation. That is the killer with these sorts of deals- folks who get paid millions in salary, millions more in bonuses, more millions in 'compensation packages', etc. - which they get to invest or otherwise spend in a 'discretionary' way- While most of us struggle to pay for all we need (transportation, healthcare, housing, food, etc.) out of a single paycheck with far fewer zeros & commas, so very little is left to invest for future growth or to set aside for retirement.
That's the case where I work (although on a much smaller scale). The executives get to pick a car and the company leases it for them. They change their choices frequently. And this is after a 50% reduction in staff, cuts to benefits and no raises for two years.
Bitter much? Yup.
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I don't know about Plastruct's product either, but the last time I used a non-toxic cement it took weeks to cure. I finally decided I can deal with small amounts of toxicity in return for something that's usable.
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Not that I really care but do they kill the weasels when they take their fur for the brushes?
Carlos
EDIT: Ok, I do care, that's pretty sad if they do... :[
I doubt it, since the hair comes from their tails and you'd think they just let it grow back so they can keep harvesting it. But I have no proof...
What's interesting is it's usually a blend of male and female hair. I wonder what's different about them?
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Thanks for the help!
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Hi everyone!
I'm starting to do the research required to build a 1/48 B-17G for my grandfather-in-law, who was a bombardier. My question is, where do I get decals for his particular group? He was in 8AF / 92BG / 325BS. I know the 92nd has the letter code of "B" and the squadron code was "NV." If no one makes the decals, do you print them yourselves or paint them on?
Also, he claims he flew on a B-17H, but I thought that was SAR aircraft. He was flying in Europe in spring of '45. Can anyone enlighten me?
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Hey... any aerodynamics experts here:
a.)Have we tried doing anything like this yet, and if so, where can i get info?
b.) how much more mechanically complex would this be than a regular helicopter? You wouldn't be making the same adjustments to the pitch of the blades, you'd do it to the whole ring.
c.) would this have any advantage over a regular copter, apart from looking wicked cool? Flying in Pandoran Jungle would probably be tough on rotor blades. The rings would really protect them. (and not the big brush/cable cutters on the leading edge of the rings.)
a.) Look up the Bell X-22. It's more plane than helicopter (looks like a precursor to the V-22), but it's still something that's been tried.
b.) I have no earthly idea, but I'm guessing it's complex enough to play with but not use in production, the same as forward swept wings.
c.) I doubt it, but looking wicked cool is half the fun in sci-fi!
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Good thing plastic can't talk . . . ;)
Besides, plastic doesn't bat your hand away when you're trying to cop a feel.
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I have the Iwata one as well. It provides a safe place to put my airbrush when I'm not using it and prevents spray blasting all over when cleaning, especially at higher psi.
I wouldn't say a commercial one is a "must-have," but it sure works well for me!
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Congrats on your purchase! I just got mine a year or two ago. I started by spraying on paper (a drawing pad) and cardboard boxes the first few times just to get used to how it feels and works (and afterward, practice cleaning it).
If you don't have a cheap model to practice on, get one. You don't even have to build it, just spray the pieces still on the sprue. I always test on my practice model before spraying my work-in-progress just to make sure everything's working. You'll want to play with the air pressure and practice thinning paints to see what happens when you over/under-thin the paint. If you use paint that's too thin or with the pressure too high it will "spider" on the model.
From what I've seen on the forums, I think most people tend to thin paint quite a bit and use the lowest pressure possible to paint in multiple light layers. I use a higher pressure when cleaning/changing colors to help eject any particulates.
For me it comes down to four things:
1. Correctly thinned paint
2. Correct air pressure
3. A clean airbrush
4. Practice, practice, practice!
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I hate you, but only in the most awe-inspiring, jaw-dropping, respectful way.
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I understand the whole Windex-eliminates-orange-peel thing, but I sprayed Future and the coat dried with a gritty finish. Can anyone explain what happened? Was it drying before it hit the model? I was using lower pressure - no more than 15 psi, probably closer to 10, but I was also holding the airbrush farther from the model than I would for paint.
If that's it, will a flash coat of Windex smooth it out, even if it's already cured?
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Agree with above, either Winsor & Newton or Loew Cornell (can't remember which line). They won't shed and will last a long time if you take care of them. I skimp on a lot, but not brushes.
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In Michaels you can get Testors brushes, i preffer synthetic brushes for large surface painting and natural bristle brushes for detail painting and drybrushing.
Your don't NEED to prime the model, i never prime my models prior brush painting, NEVER, i only do preshading and that's it.
I'm guessing you primarily use enamels(?) Acrylics, especially the cheap craft acrylics, don't stick very well without a primer coat.
I like Loew Cornell and Winsor & Newton brushes. Red sable is a good natural bristle but the synthetics are also very good.
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Plans are at the bottom of the page.
You greatly overestimate my skill, kind sir, but the plans are cool!
One of these days I'll be frustrated enough to start scratchbuilding . . .
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Prime it, thin it properly and use good brushes.
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Durn - three good, completely different replies. Looks like I'll be pulling out a test model.
Thanks to all (and any more that show up with something to try)!
Decal setting solutions
in Tools 'n' Tips
Posted
I'll give this a shot. You're going to find a lot of people that are happy with Micro-Set and Micro-Sol. Problematic decals may require something "hotter" like Solvaset.
Having said that, some people use Future, some use white vinegar, some use other homemade concoctions. You can probably find previous threads on the subject by doing a search.