Treewizard648
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Posts posted by Treewizard648
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Question regarding the gloss coat. How many coats are required? Doesn't the paint surface affect the gloss coat surface i.e. if the paint surface is grainy/pebbly like (this is due to either incorrect mixture or ambient conditions, still learning how to airbrush!) then won't the gloss coat also have this same appearance especially with Future? I've tried both airbrushing and brushing Future without much success getting a smooth gloss finish.
Mike
Good question there Mike, I hope we get an answer for that one too. Anyway I have been looking for Future floor polish online and its around $6.00 a bottle and over $8.00 shipping! Jeebus Cripes!
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Thank ya'll for your imput but I think have some more questions now.
1. Clear coat of what? Future? Where can I buy it because last time I checked my local Walmart doesnt have it. :\
2. Bob mentioned "mineral spirits". So does that mean I still use alcohol for thinning the oil based paint?
3. I have seen models washed with thinned out acrylics. I really dont want to go out of my way to buy oil based paint but I suppose I have to if it works best.
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did you clear coat before washing?
I described the steps thoroughly so no.
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So I was working on my Finemolds Tie Fighter, I primed it with Tamiya surface primer. Then I gave it a basecoat of Neutral grey (XF-53) with my airbrush and I used rubbing alcohol as a solvent to break up the grey so I can get an even flow with my airbrush. Then after it dried I used a wash of Black (XF-1) and it was heavily diluted with rubbing alcohol too. When the wash dried I used the q-tip method (I used rubbing alcohol as a solvent again) to rub out the excess black wash so it will leave just the panel lines black. But as I started working at it I started to rub out the basecoat and the surface primer! I damaged the Tie Fighter so badly that I bought a new one. No joke, I damaged the model THAT BAD. So I have the new one stashed away, unassembled, right next to my epic fail Tie
So with that, my question is, what did I do wrong? Did I soak my q-tips with too much alcohol? Was I supposed to shield the basecoat with dullcote or something before I applied the wash? Or should I be using rubbing alcohol at all?
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This is very unfortunate, the only thing we can do is pray for the safety of the pilot.
All is not lost, after the remains of the wreckage are recovered, the investigators can figure out what caused the crash and improve upon their mistakes.
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Im working on something similar except its an X-Wing under repair. Lets see how that goes
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Its probably just a new Russian sub with a nearly silent propulsion system test firing a dud missile to see what happens. Nothing Jack Ryan can't handle.
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I just bought a RoG F-22A and a RoG F-14D both are in 1/72 scale and I was wondering if I could use any aftermarket resin mods or photo etch parts to fix any missing details. And If I do need any, what are they exactly and where could I get them for a fair price? I am a very detail conscious model maker and I would very much appreciate any suggestions.
-Al
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Or are there any other companies that make superior models of the F-16C?
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I am looking to build a 1/72 scale F-16C and I am debating whether to buy the Hasegawa or Italeri version. My main concern is out of the box accuracy and whichever one wont need as many aftermarket mods or none at all. Does anyone have any experience with these models?
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F-4C
Thanks! I didnt know much about this bird. But now that we know its an F-4C I could buy a model of it now!
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Here are some photos I got of an F-4 Phantom on display in Tulare CA, its just off Highway 99 North. I managed to get some detail shots of the engines and landing gear for all you hard core scratchbuilders out there. :lol: The only downside is I'm not sure which type of Phantom this is, I'll leave it up to you guys to figure it out!
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Here's mine- He111 H-10
That is the finest He 111 model I have seen! I would also like to know how you achieved that paint job and what paints you used. I want to get similar results from my kit however the windows will be closed because I want to mount it on a flying base and put electric motors to make the props spin, do you think this can be done Chuck? And thanks Patrick for the link, I will be buying mods from them as I see fit, but do they sell crew figures too?
-Alex
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Might want to post this in the Props forum for more exposure. This forum is mostly for pre-WW2 stuff.
Well the Heinkel 111 is developed in the 1930's so I figured I should have posted it here, I will contact a moderator to have it moved.
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I bought a rare monogram 1/48th scale Heinkel 111 h-6 and after looking at the cockpit I must say that I am a bit intimidated by it. Does anyone have any experience with this kit or any prior knowledge on shielding it or finishing it? I would also like to know where I could get model crew members for it and if there are any after-market resin mods that might be useful. I would also like to know where the best place to purchase 1/48th scale swastika decals as well.
-Tree
Using Future, rules and techniques
in Tools 'n' Tips
Posted
I found out that my local Walmart does carry Future floor polish, its just marketed as "Pledge with Future shine". Anyway, the formula hasnt changed just the name. Therefore, I am heading down there tomorrow to by myself a bottle. But I want to know some rules and techniques when I use it. Do I have to dilute it when I use it with my airbrush? What do I dilute it with? Its supposed to be a gloss finish but what If I don't want my model to have a glossy finish?
On a side note, I have been working with Gundam models lately and most are not glossy. The luna titanium alloy they are made out of is usually painted white with a semi gloss finish.