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trekracer20

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  1. That is a really beautiful finish, can't wait to see it done! I almost hate the thought of covering up the paint with decals!
  2. This is really starting to come together nicely, and the re-scribed panel lines on the front end look ten times better than what you started with. Keep it up!
  3. Well, that's pretty interesting. I will definitely have to try a similar shading technique on my next WWII build, as this looks a lot better than shaving plastic off the model and re-doing panel lines and rivets to create actual texture. Thanks for the idea!
  4. These look good! My only critiques will be minor since these are so well done. The panel highlighting is just a little overdone for my personal taste, but that's just a preference. Given the overall weathering, you might consider applying a little wear to the propeller and leading edge of the wings, at least on the -1A. Also, the step on the wing should be filled in on these, and it generally wasn't added until after the war I believe. Looking forward to seeing more!
  5. Wow, that's a great-looking mustang. The weathering is fantastic in my view, and the painting of the olive drab looks great without being overly stylized. My only criticism is that whenever I see a P-51 this well-done, I wish more than ever that the wing panel lines were filled in to complete the really great work. As it is, you've build a really great model and I'm looking forward to the next.
  6. Congratulations on a great-looking Corsair! My only suggestion would be that the decals look very bright and un-faded compared to the rest of the top of the bird, and that maybe a little fading/dirtying of the white could look nice. It's hard to tell, but what I can see of the bottom/exhaust area also looks very clean compared to the effects applied to the upper half.
  7. This looks like a tough kit to flex your muscles on unless you're willing to re-scripe panel lines, add aftermarket parts, etc. In general this looks good from the photos. I think the paint looks good. One thing you might try in the future that I only thought of after reading your intro is painting the white afterward rather than painting it first and masking off--it won't be as bright, but I think that might actually looks a little better at small scale and still clearly read as white, as long as you can avoid getting a big lip of paint around the edges. Looking forward to seeing more that st
  8. Many thanks, guys! There were a couple sites in there that I've never seen before, and I found what I was looking for. Hopefully it'll be up in critique corner in the next month!
  9. Thanks, Rex--I saw some good photos in there, but I wasn't able to find any that shows the areas I'm looking for. I don't think it's a very common angle to photograph...
  10. I'm working on a A-4K Skyhawk, built from Hasegawa's A-4E/F kit. I'm using Gekko Graphics great decals, and the bird I'm building is the third one down on this sheet: I can't for the life of me find any photos showing the paint color of the underside of the wing slats and the underside wing flaps on the back of the wing (though I'm sure they have a real name). Brett Green build this same aircraft a few years ago, and it looks like he painted the interior of those wing flaps the same gray as appears on the outside of the plane, but it's hard to tell. Does anyone have a good suggestions for t
  11. For what it's worth, I have used another brand of plastic polish called Novus--I use the medium and fine polish, and have sworn off of Future on canopies for all the reasons Chuck mentions. The results are very clear and shiny, and if it gets dirty, dusty, etc you just need to apply a tiny amount of the fine polish to a q-tip and re-shine.
  12. I would hate to see the Critique Corner go away. As it is, I feel like there's a lot of hesitation to offer complete, honest criticism to models posted even here. Few people are interested in bashing a model that clearly needs a lot of work or addressing every little flaw, but without the Critique Corner there would be no criticism at all, as in the Display Case. Many people enjoy and prefer the more casual atmosphere of the Display Case, but I personally would rather at least attempt to get some honest feedback rather than just sit back and let the fluffy compliments pile up. Not everyone fee
  13. No problem, Eri - the mud splatter was done by loading very thin brown paint into the airbrush. In a double-action airbrush, if I pull the trigger back to open the nozzle without depressing the trigger to let air flow, a little paint seems to escape and sit inside the airbrush. Then I depress the button to allow air to flow with the trigger all the way forward, and that small amount of paint spatters out onto the model. It's not an exact science, and I'm not sure I'm in love with the scale of all the splatter marks. Next time I may try the old toothbrush splatter trick and see if the results a
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