Mackie

Thanx, guys. Me and my friends in our Il-2 squad were trying to figure out what the heck those things were. Some of the ideas were (mostly in jest): rearward facing pitot tubes, aileron weights, antennae, fuel probes, etc. =)

On the rear of both wingtips on the Sukhoi Su-26 there are some poles with a triangle looking thing on them. What are those? Thanx, Mac

OK, so I saw a good deal on a Hasegawa F-104G kit and got it. I didn't know much about the aircraft and didn't realize that the 'G' was basically the export model. I would like to do a natural metal US F-104 so that basically means it has to be an F-104C, right? So... what are the major visible differences between a G and C? Can backdating be done on the G kit? thanx!

Try sneaking that past your spouse! I bet Eduard is already coming up with a PE set...

I hear constantly (and have myself experienced) people complaining about going on a job interview, everything seeming great, then..... nothing. No phone calls, no e-mail, no post card, nothing! It would be nice for a prospective employer to at least send an e-mail thanking one for their time for applying and interviewing but the position is filled - ya know, just so you won't turn blue holding your breath. Just for that, in protest for all the rude prospective employers out there, I'm gonna stay home from work tomorrow and not call in! Best wishes with the job hunt. -t

Thanx guys. Nice links. There's a bunch of pix in clicky 1 I hadn't seen before. The jug in clicky 2 is pretty darn shiny but I don't want my kit to be so shiny it hurts to look at! I'll go with the plain 'ol aluminum and take it from there. I am doing the Hasegawa kit with Verlinden update. I have a set of SuperScale decals devoted to all of Johnson's famous jugs. Penrod and Sam (according to SuperS) has the 13' prop and the other 3 have the 12'2" prop. I broke out the calipers and calculator and determined the kit prop is the correct 13' CES prop - smack dab on the scale money, within a co

Ah, I was just going to report on Promodeller's washes today... I just received some the other day and tried them out this weekend. They work just as advertised on the promodeller.com web site video! They're freeking great!!!! Thank you Promodeller - you have my vote for the Nobel Peace Prize! For me, trying to do panel lines with oils was the most aggravating, time consuming, frustrating thing imaginable. -- I used the PM wash on my 1/48 Ar 234B-2/N which was sealed with a good layer of Future and the weathering is perfect. It brought out the panel lines beautifully and made some nice

With the ever increasing prices of kits these days Zvezda is a breath of fresh air! I got their La-5FN kit for $15!!! (from LHS - not and auction or discounter) and it is just as accurate, fits just as good, and is a heck of a lot more detailed in all the usual problem areas as the big Japanese manufactured kits. Full engine and weapons bays! Way to go Zvezda!!! LHS has a few of the ARK kits in - A Hurricane and a couple of Yak's. They aren't sealed in plastic so I took a peek in - they look really nice too! Lots of detailed parts, good quality plastic, nice fine panel lines etc. $30 retail r

Ok, so I've got myself a nice shiny black P-47 ready for the natural metal finish. I'm doing Bob Johnson's "Penrod and Sam" P-47. Here's a picture. I have 2 questions: 1) What color should I use as the main metallic color. In my inventory of Alclad lacquers I have Chrome, Aluminum, and Polished Aluminum. I almost picked up a bottle of Duraluminum from LHS - isn't that technically what aircraft skin is made of??? I plan on masking some panels out and using other shades to break things up afterwards. OK, so those of you with a little experience in all things NMF where should I start? I've onl

I read Robert S. Johnson's book Thunderbolt a while back and was inspired to model his plane Penrod & Sam. I remember he talked about using the pressed paper fuel tanks but don't recall him ever mentioning using bombs or rockets. So, I am partway through making the 1/48 Hasegawa Razorback which comes with the big 'ol 150 gallon centerline tank but I think that thing is pretty ugly. I'd like to find a pair of the 108 gallon tanks to put on the wing pylons or as plan B a pair of 75 gallon tanks - I don't want to leave the wing pylons empty. So my question is - is there an aftermarket sou

I recently picked up this kit. When I opened up the box I was amazed at all the beautiful plastic I got for $15!! This manufacturer raises the bar for quality and price in the industry. Excellent work! The kit came out awesome! BTW, how were the kit decals?

Most of the e-pin marks seem to be the indented type rather than the raised type. I'm wondering if I filled them in with Krystal Klear, etc. would do the trick? Experimentation time...

OK, here's another thing(s), - The wheels; if I put a piece of Evergreen between the wheel halves of all the wheels should that take care of the inaccuracies? This particularity is not very high on my priority list but an easy fix like that would be good. - As this is a gift, I want to put the model on a wooden plaque either in a flying pose or taking off pose - this would take care of the flat tire problem as the rear wheels would still be on the ground or up in the wheel bays. However, if I do this I'm going to need some 'pilots'... Any advice on making a thingy to connect the 'flying' pl

Thanx a lot guys! I've been back in the hobby for a while now, but only doing WW2 stuff. I don't necessarily want to do an exact loadout as the picture, I just want to make a fully loaded bird which would be accurate for the 336th in OIF. If I can use kit parts and minimize the aftermarket purchases that is the plan. So, to recap: Wolfpack OIF update for Revell + Hasegawa Weapons pack D + Quickboost seats should do the trick? Thanx again!!

Ok, that link to the Phantom was just ridiculous! Anyway, your progress looks great so far. Keep us posted. I'm very interested in any tips you have because I have 4 'clear edition / visible' projects in the stash. Anyone know how to fill in ejector pin marks in clear styrene or should I just leave 'em be?