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About little-cars

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    Canopy Polisher
  1. Odourless terps is a good place to start, as are Mig's range of very fine pigment oils made in shades for modellers, not artists.
  2. Both brushes are meant as area/general brushes, although you can get reasonably fine with them. Out of these two the Eclipse CS is the better brush and easier to clean. But it really it depends on the sort of painting you are going to be doing. General purpose work, or fine detailed camo. For fine detail work on 1/72 and 1/144th you will need a finer needle/ nozzle set. Some thing like the Harder & Steenbeck Evolution (around the same price band as the two you mentioned )or the Iwata High Performance HP-B or Hi-line BH (both next price band up) would be better suited. They both come w
  3. I suspect these two brushes are related, and may even take the same spares. Both Iwata and Tamiya brushes are similar quality, these two are a similar spec. The plus part of the Tamiya brush is that you can take the paint cup off to see the nozzle easier for doing small fine detailed work & you don't have the lump under the bodu in front of the trigger, that tends to leave a dent in your finger. The price is good, so if you want two brushes or have a problem with the tamiya brush, then I'd get it
  4. JLC saw is the best thing for small resin blocks. It is a rasor saw, the blade is rasor blade sized and very very fine toothed blade. Small and very thin. I sell them in the UK and there is a US retailer as well. Washing detailed resin pieces, try and ultrasonic cleaner, works a treat and you don't have to handle delicate parts. Paul www.little-cars.co.uk/toolsacc.htm
  5. On the Eclipse air can bubble back to the cup if the nozzle is not centred properly before the air cap/head is screwed into place. As it's a compression fit, any gaps at the base of the nozzle means that air will bubble back into the paint cup. I have seen this once on new brush, the paint nozzle was jammed solid in the front of the brush. Or it could be a split in the pointy end of the nozzle. or that the air cap/head isn't screwed on tight enough. This can also happen if the rubber has had a good soaking with an agresive airbrush cleaner. The o ring swells up and the head feels like i
  6. I usually suggest the micro-mesh craft set. Has nine 2" square pads of micro mesh, from 1500 to 12000(1micron) and a bottle of polish and three sanding sticks. The pads are sodt so mould around curved surfaces.
  7. I've been supplying them for years. And have a lot of happy customers. They come in dropper bottles, 55ml and 500ml bottles. The only thing I would say is use Vallejo thinners with them. Paul little-cars.com
  8. I use & stock a tool called the JLC rasor saw. It uses a tough steel blade that us the same size as an old style rasor blade. It has very fine teeth on one side and even finer on the other side. This is mounted on a wooden handle. You can use the leading edge to cut into the plastic to open up doors and panels. To help even more their larger set comes with a set of spacers so you can mount two blades for parallel cuts. There is an old review of the tool here. http://www.internetmodeler.com/2006/septem...es/tool_saw.php Paul www.little-cars.com/toolsacc.htm
  9. H&S EVo & infinity need cleaning, but they are modular and designed for the most part to be taken apart without any special tools. The only exception is the gold waist on the Infinity which they supply a metal dowel to loosen. As has been said the nozzle, with a teflon washer at the back, fits in the aircap/head an compression fits onto the body of the brush. The cleaning routine I would go for is to blast through some cleaner to shift most of the leftover paint. Then put some cleaner in the paint cup, remove any dried on paint with an old paintbrush, then tip the bits and the c
  10. Interesting, I noticed that they are not on the K&S web site, but they are still in catalogues over here in the UK, but I don't knowwhat the stock levels are.... I can make enquiries to see what the minimum number of angle headed sanding sticks I need to buy to be able to get them manufactured in 400 grit if that is any good ?? Got it wrong last time it's the grey not the orange that is the 320, bit id shows that other grades are available. I have a feeling that your best option longer term is to get hold of a micro mesh sheet that fits between the 320 and 600. Depends on which numb
  11. There aren't any published figures and it depends on distance, pressure and what you are spraying through the brush. The Guide I use is; 0.15mm is for very fine detail up to and inch or so. 0.2mm nozzle, general detail to area coverage on up to 1/48th fighters. 0.4mm overlaps a little with the 0.2mm, but is good for general work and as a backup set incase you damage the 0.2mm. 0.6mm is for larger areas and larger grain paints like metalflake car paints. Paul www.little-cars.co.uk/airbrushes
  12. The mylar backed abbrasives are availalbe in a 400 grit, K&S do the sheets as part of a general pack. Personally I get these made up into padded sanding stocks, but I have never stocked the 400grit. I get them made in 150, 280, 320 & 600 grit and everyone seams to be happy with these. I did have an occasion when the orange 320 grit was not availalbe and I took the Yellow instead, that was probably 360. If you want a full range of grits I would look at the Micro mesh system. The craft set gives you grades 1500 down to 12000 on 2" square pads which are OK for flat areas and can be
  13. As someone that imports H&S to the UK, I have asked the company if they can supply a version of the infinity with the fPc. But the answer I get is that there is no demand for it ! The solution I normally suggest for my customers to to buy the quick release hose connector with a mac valve integrated. It works out at about half the price of the fPc valve and gives the same control over the air pressure. Glad to see some people have mentioned the Evolution Silverline fPc two in one, it's the best price performance compromise for people who want to be able to tackle fine detail as well as
  14. H&S have a similar compression fit nozzle for their airbrushes. Some of the Grex brushes the XA and TG have screw in nozzles that are larger and easier to handle. Paul www.little-cars.co.uk/airbrushes
  15. As an Iwata, H&S and Grex dealer, I'll give you my thoughts. I've been through a Badger 200 and Aztek and couldn't get on with either very well. Iwata have a good range of brushes, not cheap, all have fixed paint cups and most ranges use the older style tiny screw in nozzles. They are also split into general purpose and detail ranges, each with their own nozzle and needle, so you can't one brush to do everything. The custom micro is overkill for most modellers, I point people to the Eclipse range for general purpose and the Hi-line range for detail work. H&S have two main ranges t
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