Grey Ghost 531

Hey Kursad, Is there any action on the Revell box scale missile sheet you were considering a while back? Thanks!

Thanks Paul, but, if it's not already in my stash, I don't need it. I've already got enough to last until I'm 250 years old and I kind of like old, crappy kits. I can't wait to see your build of the new one though.

Does anybody have the Ginter book on the FH? I'd like to know if the engine ducting intrudes into the main gear wells. Also, is the ceiling of the well the undersurface of the wing skin or is the well not as deep as the wing thickness? I don't really need a picture as I'm not super detailing, I'll guess as to details. I just want to block out the open hole in the MPM 1/72 FH. I haven't been able to find any undersurface pictures on the inner tubes. Thanks Dave

Depends. They've gotten better over time. Stuff from 15 years ago is pretty rough. Soft detail, approximate fit... sort of like Dragon from 1990 or so. I haven't actually held them in my hand, but some of their new airliners look awesome in pictures.

That might mean the site has a virus your system can't detect...

Awesome. I like little tanks.

I think Hyperscale has got something weird going on where their server is sensitive about what you're posting from. There's talk of them finally changing hosts so maybe that will fix it. I like that site.

Mock it up and see. I think it might be okay. Mine is too low right now, just above knee level when sitting down. I think I'm going to build a cabinet for it and move it about chest high sitting down.

Hmm, I don't even pay attention to what sub I'm looking at. I click "unread posts" and scroll down through and open the stuff that looks interesting regardless of the sub category. I do get a little bugged when the same thing is posted in 8 or 10 places...

Head start is authorized? I guess I'm in with a Revell 1/96 scale Saturn V with New Ware resin and decals. I'm going to pick and choose which resin I use, some of it doesn't look like a great improvement over Revell's parts. Also Rick Sternbach did a lot of art on Science Fiction books and magazines too. A good reference for the Saturn V is the newish "Haynes Manual". Not the Apollo 11 one but the Saturn V one. Lots of color pictures and details I hadn't seen before.

I need some moto for the 1/96 Saturn V that's been gathering dust for about 20 years. It's over in the corner, just staring at me... No way I can wait until next January if it's to be done in July though. I've got the New Ware set for it and I'll need to do something about the tank skins. Lotta work there.

We called it a SATS loader in the Marines. I'm not sure what SATS means but the aluminum runway plates used at expeditionary airstrips were called SATS mats so it may be "Short Airfield for Tactical Support" (picking from the list on "acronym finder") I think the bladder fueling system had "SATS" in the name too. A little googling shows the designation for "SATS loader" is A/S 32K-1A/1B/1C, the pictures look the same. I think "MJ-4" might be the old Air Force designation. SATS loader

Is the MJ-4 the same thing as an MHU-83?

Malwarebytes seems to have pretty good reviews and it's found stuff that AVG missed on my computer. They've got a free version. It also will remove "PUPs" (potentially unwanted programs). These are the tracking stuff that business puts on your computer to target you for ads. They got all touchy when these programs were called "malware" since they don't do any damage so they're called PUPs now.

I use flat black with about 5-10% Panzer Yellow added by eye. It works with either Tamiya acrylic or Model Master enamels for me. NATO black is a little green tinged and I don't think it looks right for tires.

Pay attention to the basics. Examine where your last model had shortcomings and concentrate on not repeating that. If you see a mistake in your current model, restrain your self from saying "good enough" if you know it will bug you later. If something's not working with the paint, modify it to see if it improves, thin it, adjust the air pressure, try a different brush...don't just keep doing it the same way if the results aren't to your liking. If you're building armor and you see a mistake, slop some mud on it. Don't worry too much about it. Unless someone's pa

The Radar Control Stick retracted a little down and forward (toward the front of the aircraft, away from the RIO). It remained in the same orientation (stick pointing up) and you're correct, it was to the right of the scope just in front of the RIO's right knee. That's why it retracted, so he could get out in a hurry without needing a peg leg after he got back on the ground. The Radar Control Panel on the left side also retracted but it just pivoted on the top front edge and tilted in a little.

I think there are apps that let you do that at home. It would be worth looking into if you have a bunch of stuff. I think stamps.com is one of the ones I see advertised. I have no personal knowledge of any of these sites though. Our club once inherited a whole bunch of kits, almost 1000, that we sold at shows. It took a bit over a year to sell them off. We started by looking on line for any kits that were still available on line and priced them at about 75% of that if the kits were still in the bags or at least had their parts still on the sprue. Kits with a lot of loose parts (I c

The quality and usability of Academy decals vary all over the place. I built that F-16 kit using the VTANG decals and they are on the terrible end of the range. I used a mix of Solvaset and Future to get them to stick and they eventually worked satisfactorily, but it was a struggle.

Not an FG1 but when I was on the Coral Sea they left off the forward Sparrows sometimes for weight considerations. (when it was hot) We often flew with 4xAIM9 and 2xAIM7 with a centerline tank. Note that the tank must be jettisoned before firing forward Sparrows or the missile fins will can-opener it when they eject. There's an electrical interlock that prevents doing that. That's why they mounted the Sparrows in the rear, those can be launched with the tank in place.

From my research when I built a Skyray, the area under the slat is the same color as the top of the wing. Also, there is no step or ridge on the top surface of the wing where the slat edge is when the slat is closed. There is no sort of recess where the slat goes, it stands proud of the wing (maybe 2mm in real life) I also found that almost every picture of a Skyray on the ground had the pitch trimmers angled up about 20° or 30°. They are not hydraulically actuated, they are moved by a jack screw and electric motor so they stay where they were last left when the power is removed. I

One way to do a greenhouse canopy is in two stages: Mask all the frames in one directions, that way you're just masking straight lines. Paint. Remove masks. Mask the frames going in the other direction. Paint. Remove masks. You end up cleaning the airbrush twice and maybe it costs a little extra paint but it takes about 10% as much time to mask compared to masking each individual pane in the canopy. Plus the frames will be more straight and I find I can make them a bit more narrow this way. This method also solves the above mentioned issue of poorly defined frames on th

WOW! I love the resin tweezers. I'd need a resin optivisor too! Those are way beyond my scope but I wish you success!

If you just google the BuNo, Airliners.net will probably pop up with a few.