Grey Ghost 531

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Fiddly stuff is mostly done. I added lead foil belts with buckles made out of some bits of 1/700 ship railing photo etch. Also added arm rests and the rail on the back and some ejection handles made out of wire. Made throttles and control sticks from styrene rod suitably chopped up and shaped and added consoles and rudder pedals out of styrene sheet. Boxed in the wheel well walls, the actual wheel well detail will have to wait until the wings are glued together and that has to wait until the interior is painted and installed. For scale, the grid on the cutting mat is 1/2 inch squa

It's not that rough in real life. Roughness would manifest as drag in flight. Flat paint would be accurate in 1/48, especially if you used a satin or semi-gloss for the rest of the airframe. Ns were pretty glossy up until they went to TPS in the late '80s. They were painted with DuPont Imron epoxy paint which held its gloss very well. I use a 50/50 mix of gloss and flat to varnish aircraft from that era.

I stand corrected. I did a GIS and found that plus the black RF tail with three white bars and a special scheme on BuNo157346 that had a red tail and a red "film strip" painted on the spine.

An F-35 can pick a target for, and then guide a Standard missile launched from a destroyer to that target.

I know, right? It's missed EVERY TIME they've used it! 100% failure rate against live targets!!!

Hasegawa T-33 with Leading Edge "Silver Shark" scheme from VU-32 out of CFB Greenwood, Nova Scotia in 1992. I saw a warbird in these markings at Hamilton a few years ago and had to do it. It's an OOOOOOLD Hasegawa kit with poor detail. I'll be redoing the wheel wells and putting some belts on the seats but that's about it. Even considering my past group build history, I should be able to finish this by the end of the year, we'll see what happens then. I do have a bunch more in the stash. Note, for all the Photo Bucket haters out there, this was posted on FaceBook to see how it work

Hasegawa T-33 with Leading Edge "Silver Shark" scheme from VU-32 out of CFB Greenwood, Nova Scotia in 1992. I saw a warbird in these markings at Hamilton a few years ago and had to do it. It's an OOOOOOLD Hasegawa kit with poor detail. I'll be redoing the wheel wells and putting some belts on the seats but that's about it. Even considering my past group build history, I should be able to finish this by the end of the year, we'll see what happens then. I do have a bunch more in the stash. Note, for all the Photo Bucket haters out there, this was posted on FaceBook to see how it work

I'm not sure if P-3 was ever gray over white, the squadron didn't form until '75 when the Marine Corps split up the VMCJ squadrons by airframe type into the VMAQs and VMFP-3. They might have been over-all gloss light gull gray from the start. They were by '77 when I got to El Toro. They went gradually to a tactical paint scheme starting about '82 or so. What decals do you have? That would determine the paint scheme.

We had a bird lose a radome in flight over Pendleton. The radome bolt on the upper left fractured, the lower left ripped out of the frame and the radome swung to the right and down. The aircrew knew something happened because the right engine fodded but they didn't know the radome left. The angle and curvature makes it difficult to see over the barrel part of the fuselage ahead of the windscreen. The RIO said, "all of a sudden the elevation bar went to the bottom of the scope and it stopped sweeping..." Another aircraft had to tell them the radome was missing. They landed safely. All the rada

and it's on the Canadian dime!

Feet and breeches, dishpan hands and the smell of rotten eggs! I've done it and I was in the radar shop!

Probably so they can use one piece molds and still pull the part out without destroying the rubber. If they did the bomb in one piece they'd need a split mold and then THEY would have to worry about misalignment!

One out of one AIM-9Xs missed. I see this as a trend, all AIM-9s should be thrown away immediately. They are clearly junk....

I'm done with the extensive interior, most of which will never be seen again once the fuselage is glued together. So, I took a some pictures before it disappears. Out of the box except for I made some epoxy putty cushions and seat belts for the pilot and copilot seats. I didn't put any belts on the rest of the crew's seats as no one would ever see them. I also added the motor for the chin turret under the bombardier's seat. The rest is from the kit except for a couple of Mike Grant instrument decals on the bomb sequence control panel. Those just might be visible through the nose bubble.

There are small extruded aluminum miter boxes available. They have a v-groove in the bottom to hold cylindrical parts. I've never tried to do what you are describing but I bet it would be hard to do even with a miter box. Maybe, cut as close to square as you can and pin the two halves with a bit of wire, Fiddle with the pieces until they're straight and then fill the gap with super glue to hold it that way?

If you don't mind enamel, my choice for tire color is about a 5:1 mix of Model Master flat black and DAK Afrika Braun '42. I've had a number of people comment on it and request the mix. I find that NATO black looks a little too greenish for me.

The last page of the Ginter book has what looks like a page of the NATOPS manual titled "performance summary" and it has a column listing 4 sidewinders and 2 300 gallon tanks. I do not see any pictures in the book with four, or even two visible on the same wing.

Not bad.... shakes head, looks at modeling desk... gently weeps...

I built this about 40 years ago back when it was just an old kit. The one thing I remember is that it doesn't have a center sustainer engine bell, only the two booster engines. Other than that, it has all the warts of any of the other really old school Revell missile kits. I sure wouldn't try to talk anyone out of getting one. It was fun to build. I actually remember my father building one about 20 years before I did.

What about something that only came with a 351 Windsor??? just kidding. I've got some decals for the blue shark mouth CT-133, even I should be able to get that done in time!

Oooh, I've got the Otaki kit built (years ago) maybe it'll be due for a repaint, its decals aren't the best anyway!

I use lead foil. I've still got a stash of it from when real lead was used on wine bottles. I'm a 1/72 guy so I don't worry about every little buckle and keeper and just do an impressionistic seat belt. The lead foil has some thickness and it's soft enough to pose and drape. For buckles I just cut a small square of the foil and maybe shape the corners a little and glue it on or under the end of the belt to give it some relief. I'll make the adjuster buckles with a little piece of wire bent into a square "U" shape just wider than the belt. I tap it with a hammer to make it flat and then glue it

Low frequency means long wavelength. Long wavelength means low resolution. The LF radar will detect a target but it will not locate the target. They'll know something's out there, somewhere. With bi-stable radar (separate transmit and receive stations) they'll do better, but it will take lots of computing power. It's possible to track stealthy targets, just MUCH harder. The post you saw was probably a Su fanboi site and to be judged for accuracy appropriately.

Rivet counting a joke, I hope that this is a meta-joke...