Grey Ghost 531

From the vendors at Can/Am Con: 40 bottles of Model Master enamel at 50 cents a pop!!!!! Several different sizes and shapes of Evergreen plastic strips Alclad II in Chrome and Stainless Steel 1/24 Revell Corvette "Stars and Stripes" from Sebring in 1971 From a model shop in Plattsburgh, NY that's in an Art and Picture Frame shop: 1/12 Tamiya Tyrell P34. I believe this kit is out of production but the guy had one on the shelf for 57 bucks. and a bottle of Ambroid cement.

I got a batch at the vendors at Valleycon. 4 1/144 kits: Heller F-4 and Dragon F-16, Tornado and AV-8B Hasegawa 1/72 QF-4N (NOT going to be built as a DRONE!) Hasegawa (real old kit) 1/72 Saab Viggen and a couple of targets: Hasegawa 1/72 M5 High Speed Tractor Hasegawa 1/72 Mercedes Benz staff car (six wheel - includes Hitler figure!)

The Paasche H is a good single action airbrush but it is kind of big and heavy. One of the others might be better for a young'un.

Pretty ding-dang nice!

I don't agree. They don't look tan to me at all. It is a milky, traslucent grey. You can see the gimballed seeker in there if you look through it with the sun behind it. I've done it by filing the tip flat and putting a dab of epoxy tinted with a little gloss grey paint. If you use just a little it doesn't seem to affect the epoxy's curing. Ghost, The ones I've seen (live abd CATM Mikes) have been a dark tan. The AIM-9P's had a definite grayish tint to them. Regards, Murph I guess color perception is an individual thing. I've loaded hundreds (or a half dozen of them a hundred times

I don't agree. They don't look tan to me at all. It is a milky, traslucent grey. You can see the gimballed seeker in there if you look through it with the sun behind it. I've done it by filing the tip flat and putting a dab of epoxy tinted with a little gloss grey paint. If you use just a little it doesn't seem to affect the epoxy's curing.

I cut a circle out of cardstock a little larger than the cowling's opening. Slit it from the center to the edge and curl it into a slight cone. If there's a prop shaft you can cut or punch a small circle in the center. Overlap the slits edges to make the diameter of the base of the cone smaller than the cowl's opening and insert the edges of the cone under the lip of the cowl. Let the cone spring back until it is tight against the inside of the cowl's lip. Tape the overlapped slit edges. I usually then daub liquid masking at the edges of the cowl to keep the paint out.

I've read, but not tried this trick that figure painters use for straps and such. Scribe into the floor or wall of the wheel bay or wherever it is gently on either side of the pipe or wire. That way you can paint it with slightly thinned paint and the paint will stop at the scribing and not run all over the place. It sounds like it may work but I haven't had an occasion to try it yet.

Go to www.bearair.com. You can order any part from a Paasche VL from them. Note there are differences between very old VLs and newer ones. One difference between my 1974 Paasha VL and my 2003 model, the air hose isn't interchangable! The hose for my old one won't screw onto my new one and vise-versa! They look the same but they won't interchange. The needles do look different too, there is a step on the new one and no step on my old one.

If I could build a model that nice I'd be a happy boy.

From Wilkipedia In 1808, Humphry Davy originally proposed the name alumium whilst trying to electrolytically isolate the new metal from the mineral alumina. A couple of years later he changed the name to aluminum to match its Latin root, but was finally persuaded to restore the -ium ending in 1812 giving aluminium. This had the advantage of conforming to the -ium suffix precedent set by other newly discovered elements of the period potassium, sodium, magnesium, calcium, and strontium (all of which Davy had isolated himself). However, for the next thirty years, both the -um and -ium endings we

I used to 1976-1982 F-4N Radar - VMFA-531 1985-1986 F-4C Radar - HIANG 1986-2000 F-16A/C Weapons Loader - VTANG

I like it!

and to build on Karl's comment, while it would stick the parts together it wouldn't be as strong or permanent as a fused joint you would get from using cement formulated for styrene plastic. You would be able to unstick the parts fairly easily, and probably not when you intended. Also, you would never be able to hide the seams. Go ahead and spring for the specified model cement. 3 bucks worth will build a lot of models. If you only get one type, I would suggest you go with either the old-fasioned tube glue or the Testors liquid cement for simplicity. You can keep the Tacky Glue for canopies

I like it!

I might have gone with a little lighter a color for the panel wash on the light colored part of the fuselage. Paint chipping and fading is very nice. Restrained and not charactured looking. Canopy frame is very well done. Oil staining, if anything, could be a little heavier. The big round engines tend to leak. Tires should be a little lighter grey. Antenna needs to be tightened up a bit. Overall grade: 8.5 of 10.

I wouldn't go too dirty on an overall gloss gull grey bird from the '70s. It was two part urethane epoxy and it held up very well and didn't collect dirt the way the TPS paint jobs do now. A paint job a couple of years old would still clean up on the wash rack pretty easily and they (we) washed them every day on ship and at least every week or so on land. Shipboard, we washed them with spray cleaner and rags every day and fresh water about every 10 days. Caveat; I worked on Phantoms, not 'Cats but I believe the paint was the same.

A "W" should be pretty easy to build with four strips of white decal if'n you can't find a ready made letter.

I used silver Rub-N-Buff for the undercoat for the masking tape paint chipping. As it is a kind of wax the top coat paint pulls off with the tape. Rub-N-Buff is marketed for antiquing picture frames and stuff like that. It's usually available in the craft sections of stores here in the US. I haven't done it in a long time and never with an acrylic top coat. I'd worry about big sheets of paint pulling off with acrylics as the paint isn't as hard and brittle when dry as are enamels. Lately I have been using a silver prismacolor pencil like many of the other folks in this thread and really like

I see in the new MicroMark catalog that they are selling little foam pads on sticks that they say you can use to sop up excess water during decal applications and for pressing the decals down. It looks like a pretty good idea but the items look suspiciously like the devices women use to apply eye shadow...

Aztec, the MAC of airbrushes.

The plastic is probably ABS rather than styrene. That's what the grey sheet that Plastruct sells is made of. Look for cement that is formulated for ABS. Or, get styrene sheet like you planned on.

Is the garage insulated? If not, it may be a losing battle to try and heat it with a space heater. As far as igniting paint fumes, I wouldn't be too afraid. I doubt the ratio of combustible vapor to air is high enough to ignite. If the fumes were that thick you'd pass out. I used to use a kerosene heater in my insulated garage while modeling and managed to avoid blowing myself up. I now have an externally vented propane heater made by Rinai. It's cheaper to run than electric space heaters and far simpler and less stinky than the kerosene heater was.

My Testors 1/4 scale Visible Chrysler HEMI!

Here's more or less the same technique on the Revell old tool D.VII in 1/72nd. MM "Wood" with a laminate effect brushed on with burnt sienna oil paint with a glaze of clear yellow over all to make it look varnished.