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Everything posted by RichardL
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The only time I can see the need to gently shake the AB once in a while is when spraying NMF to prevent the metallic particles from settling down to the bottom of the color cup.
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The RAM tape is not covered with the metallic coating, hence the sheen differences. Here is one from Hill AFB: In this case, the RAM tape is almost the same color as the base color, but it reflects light differently.
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I forgot Victory Models All these online stores are in the US, assuming you are located in the states. Some modelers have good experience ordering from Lucky Model in Hong Kong for newly released kits that have yet to arrive in the states.
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One of the best online sources is Scalehobbyist. The others are Sprue Brothers, KitLinx, MegaHobby, and Hobbyworld-USA to name a few. As for paints, I like Tamiya and Mr. Hobby Aqueous for acrylics, Mr. Color and MRP for lacquers. MRP can be airbrushed straight out of the bottle. The other three spray beautifully when properly thinned.
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My favorite: Saab 37 Viggen in splinter camo scheme Northrop F-20 Tigershark in Mercedes Anthracite Grey Metallic Convair B-58 Hustler
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All of the mentioned airbrushes with 0.2mm nozzle are good if you are on a budget. You don't need the MAC valve; it's just one more thing to worry about. Unfortunately, all of them require the use of a small wrench to remove the nozzle for cleaning. Chances are you will strip the threads on the nozzle even if you are careful.
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How about adding a little bit of white or light gray to plain red or insignia red until it matches the decal? It will take some trial and error, so brush paint on a scrap piece of plastic.
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Protect clear parts from super glue fumes...finally!
RichardL replied to Night Owl Models's topic in Tools 'n' Tips
Absolutely. It's perfectly fine to repost about a subject. -
Thanks. It appears to be dark aluminum or painted dark gray, although it's still hard to determine from the pic. The picture of the tip is interesting. Some type of paper covering strapped on with white tape since I can see creases/wrinkles?
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Chances are you know how to calculate a 10% tip when you go to a restaurant. If you order a $10 lunch, how much would the tip amount be if you plan to tip the waiter/waitress 10%? It's the same math.
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The color coming straight out of the bottle is not as light/bright as its non-faded counterpart, at least from what I've seen from my AKAN acrylics. In real life, green and gray tend to fade to slightly darker shades. To lighten a color by 10%, you would add one part white or beige to 10 parts color. For example, add 1 drop white to 10 drops dark gray. It doesn't have to be drops of paint. It can be milliliters, liters, fluid ounces, gallons, cups, or what have you. 1/10 = 0.1 x 100 = 10%.
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Looking for reference photos of Swedish RB 74 and RB 71.
RichardL replied to RichardL's topic in Research Corner
And yes I did stretch the airframe to scale length to accommodate the longer and more powerful Volvo RM8B engine:- 12 replies
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Looking for reference photos of Swedish RB 74 and RB 71.
RichardL replied to RichardL's topic in Research Corner
It's almost done. The only thing missing is the 4-fin centerline drop tank, which I misplaced several months ago and can't seem to find it. Still waiting for a piece of scale airfield tarmac before taking some outdoor pictures.- 12 replies
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Based on my own personal experience, faded paints are actually "darker" than regular paints.
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Protect clear parts from super glue fumes...finally!
RichardL replied to Night Owl Models's topic in Tools 'n' Tips
Found the page that mentions about Future protecting clear parts from super glue fumes, dated 2003: The Complete Future So nearly 19 years ago. -
Protect clear parts from super glue fumes...finally!
RichardL replied to Night Owl Models's topic in Tools 'n' Tips
Yes, that has been discovered nearly a decade ago when people first started using Future for dipping canopies. I use canopy glue for clear parts, which is very strong and clear. Plus, it doesn't have any fumes and doesn't craze plastic. -
For a few dollars more than your basic circle cutter, why not invest in either the Cricut Explore Air 2 or the Sihouette Portrait 3, which can cut any shapes (including circles at any diameter larger than 1mm) with ease?
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Compressor & airbrush preferences & recommendations
RichardL replied to echolmberg's topic in Tools 'n' Tips
I used to have an Iwata Eclipse also. You mentioned your budget is in the $100 - $125 range, but I would spend a little bit more and get the H&S Evolution CRplus. It is an excellent, fully solvent-resistant airbrush with PTFE seals. Midwest Airbrush Supply often hands out 15% off. -
Compressor & airbrush preferences & recommendations
RichardL replied to echolmberg's topic in Tools 'n' Tips
I second H&S airbrushes. I've switched from Iwata over to H&S, and H&S airbrushes are much easier to take apart and clean without using any tools. I also own the Paasche Talon for large area coverage and spraying primer since it doesn't perform as well as the H&S at fine detail work and freehand camo. -
Yes, I still use my Cricut to make my own masks. It's handy and easy to use.
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MRP would not want to compensate their paints for scale effect because: People will complain that the colors coming straight out of the bottles don't match actual colors What scale should they compensate for? 1/16, 1/32, 1/35, 1/48, 1/72, 144? If the paints are lightened for 1/144 scale, then the people who build 1/32 scale will need to darken the colors appropriately, which can be a real pain. Basic rule of thumb: 1/32 - add 7% white 1/48 - add 10% white 1/72 - add 15% white 1/144 - add 23% white
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Looking for reference photos of Swedish RB 74 and RB 71.
RichardL replied to RichardL's topic in Research Corner
Thanks 👍. The journey is almost over. Will post some more pictures after I glue the canopy on.- 12 replies