Jump to content

RichardL

Members
  • Content Count

    1,476
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by RichardL

  1. The only time I can see the need to gently shake the AB once in a while is when spraying NMF to prevent the metallic particles from settling down to the bottom of the color cup.

  2. The RAM tape is not covered with the metallic coating, hence the sheen differences.  Here is one from Hill AFB:

     

    Hill_small.jpg.03d94736c8f313012709f31469b81431.jpg

     

    In this case, the RAM tape is almost the same color as the base color, but it reflects light differently.

  3. All of the mentioned airbrushes with 0.2mm nozzle are good if you are on a budget.  You don't need the MAC valve; it's just one more thing to worry about.  Unfortunately, all of them require the use of a small wrench to remove the nozzle for cleaning.  Chances are you will strip the threads on the nozzle even if you are careful.

  4. 16 hours ago, Gwen Phoenix said:

    As I don't even imagine how on Earth I will ever manage to calculate that 10% needed to lighten paint in 1/48.

     

    Chances are you know how to calculate a 10% tip when you go to a restaurant.  If you order a $10 lunch, how much would the tip amount be if you plan to tip the waiter/waitress 10%?  It's the same math.

  5. The color coming straight out of the bottle is not as light/bright as its non-faded counterpart, at least from what I've seen from my AKAN acrylics.  In real life, green and gray tend to fade to slightly darker shades.

     

    To lighten a color by 10%, you would add one part white or beige to 10 parts color.  For example, add 1 drop white to 10 drops dark gray.  It doesn't have to be drops of paint.  It can be milliliters, liters, fluid ounces, gallons, cups, or what have you.

     

    1/10 = 0.1 x 100 = 10%.

  6. 4 hours ago, boom175 said:

    If you look at "Some" of MRP's paint labels it will give the color then have (FADED) in parenthesis next to it. i.e. MiG-29 Grey-Green (FADED) 

     

    Based on my own personal experience, faded paints are actually "darker" than regular paints.

  7. 13 hours ago, dai phan said:

    I would like to know if there are any tools that allows me to cut/punch circles at various diameters?

     

    For a few dollars more than your basic circle cutter, why not invest in either the Cricut Explore Air 2 or the Sihouette Portrait 3, which can cut any shapes (including circles at any diameter larger than 1mm) with ease?

     

     

    viggen_side_mask01.jpg

    viggen_tail_mask01.jpg

    insignia_01.jpg

    insignia_02.jpg

  8. 2 hours ago, echolmberg said:

     I actually do have an Iwata Eclipse from about 25 years ago.  Using the special tool they provided, I accidentally over-tightened the tip from where the needle protrudes.

     

    I used to have an Iwata Eclipse also.  You mentioned your budget is in the $100 - $125 range, but I would spend a little bit more and get the H&S Evolution CRplus.  It is an excellent, fully solvent-resistant airbrush with PTFE seals.  Midwest Airbrush Supply often hands out 15% off.

  9. On 10/27/2021 at 8:27 AM, echolmberg said:

    I wanted to thank everyone for the great input and suggestions!  Believe me when I say I am going to look into each and every one.  Chuck, you've piqued my interest in the H&S airbrush.  I like the thought of having a range of needle and especially cup size options.  I am going to look into it for sure.

     

    I was wondering if anyone had any experience with the Paasche Talon airbrush.  If so, what are your thoughts on it?  

     

    I second H&S airbrushes.  I've switched from Iwata over to H&S, and H&S airbrushes are much easier to take apart and clean without using any tools.  I also own the Paasche Talon for large area coverage and spraying primer since it doesn't perform as well as the H&S at fine detail work and freehand camo.

  10. On 11/26/2021 at 11:08 PM, serendip said:

    Does anyone know if MRP paints are already compensated for scale effect?

     

    MRP would not want to compensate their paints for scale effect because:

    1. People will complain that the colors coming straight out of the bottles don't match actual colors
    2. What scale should they compensate for? 1/16, 1/32, 1/35, 1/48, 1/72, 144?  If the paints are lightened for 1/144 scale, then the people who build 1/32 scale will need to darken the colors appropriately, which can be a real pain.

    Basic rule of thumb:

    • 1/32 - add 7% white
    • 1/48 - add 10% white
    • 1/72 - add 15% white
    • 1/144 - add 23% white

     

×
×
  • Create New...