Jim S

Hey Andrew. You're right, it is a nice kit. Glad I came across your spare decals too because I went from the two kit options I didn't really like to too many options! Thanks for stopping by!

After reading some good reviews about this kit, I picked one up on eBay. Despite being a snap fit kit it has good levels of detail and accuracy. Heck, the pilot is molded in 3 separate parts. Unfortunately, the copy I received suffered from sink marks. Issues in the rudder, on the cowl, with the worst being a distortion or "bubble" in the top of each wing opposite of where the lower wing/wheel well part attaches. Not wanting to deal with returning the kit I came up with a fix that didn't require copious amounts of Bondo and sanding. I provided pics of the fix for others in a similar situa

I started this kit two weekends ago while waiting for the layers of oil paint and Future cured on the I-16. Managed to get quite a bit done that weekend but not much since then so anyway, on with the pics. Andrew D came through with some spare decals, right now I am leaning towards white 23 but we'll see how it goes. Major parts off sprues. Where we are at now. So far the fit has been good. As the "weekend" edition there is no PE though Eduard included their unique fabric seat belts. My only dislike so far is the vapid expanse of nothingness behind the pilots seat bulkhead. In the

Update time. Experimented with oil dot filters, had to do the upper filter twice and spent a fair amount of time working on the La-7 and Yak-3 from the proposal thread while waiting for layers of Future to cure. It's not perfect but I'm satisfied for a first attempt. Initial dot filter of bottom. Payne's Grey panel line wash on bottom. Payne's Grey panel line wash on top. Next on my agenda is to shoot some clear satin varnish, tie up the loose ends, add a little bit of weathering and it'll be done. Sorry for the lack of updates. Had to figure a thing or two out and beyond that.

Thank you Martin!

Decals on, working on North Star Models PAK-1 gun sight, going to attempt oil dot weathering after the Future dries. The Begemot decals responded well to my ham fisted application without any setting solution. Managed to muddle the aileron joint with a too heavy coat of clear varnish though it looks worse in the pic than it really is. I might make a pass with the JLC saw or similar tool to better define the joint before weathering it. Think my next attempt with Vallejo's gloss varnish will be at around 15 PSI and I will try thinning it with Future and possibly water. More to come, thank

Thank you. I was doing pretty good until the clear coat. Having never used Vallejo's Gloss Varnish I should have spent more time dialing in the PSI and thinner. Anyway, I sanded away the worst of it with 3600/4000 grit micromesh and applied some Future with a Q-Tip. Hindsight I should have skipped the varnish and went with the Future. I hope to apply the decals in a few days depending on when the tackiness goes away. Thanks for checking in.

The clear varnish is still curing on the I-16 so while that is transpiring I hope to start a parallel build of Zvezda's 1/72 scale Yak-3 and Eduard's 1/72 scale La-7. The Yak is actually a snap fit kit while the La-7 is Eduard's "Weekend Edition" so I'm hoping these builds will be less complicated than the I-16. The Yak has some sink mark issues but I came up with a fix for the worst of it. Yak-3 La-7 Hope to have something to share by next weekend. Jim S

Thank you! I was hoping to have the decals on by now but need to sand the varnish with micro-mesh first. The Vallejo Gloss still has a slight tack so I'll have to wait... Thank you for stopping by.

Email sent on LaGG and La-7 decals.

Stumbled across this on another site looking for I-16 pics and thought it was kinda cool. Pretty sure it is an IL-4.

This weekend's update- Touch ups done, painted the cowl ring. Spent a lot of time cleaning the wet tissue masking from around the exhaust pipes. It'll be a really long time before I do that again... Tried spraying a gloss coat on. Used Vallejo's gloss varnish. I thinned it with water, then 91% IPA and at 20 PSI I was coming away with a slightly grainy finish. Kinda' frustrated but it should be good enough for decals. Ordered a set of decals from Linden Hill- Came up with an option that will work for me. Found a Type 18 with the Green over Blue camouflage and no tail wheel. Huzzah!

Thank you!

Hello, Without assuming too much try G**gling Window Exhaust Kit or AC vent kit. A quick search shows adjustable panels that are made of plastic or sheet metal made for double hung sash windows such as yours for venting standard vent hose through. Install the panel, close the window, connect the hose and vent through the screen. http://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Whynter-Portable-Conditioner-ARC-WK-12SP/dp/B0048ELAA8 Hope this helps. Jim S

Update time. Spent a fair amount of time masking today and was able to spray the top color on the I-16. Managed to break the tail wheel off of the strut I have repaired already so...If I can find a pic of a Baltic Fleet Type 24 without a tail wheel I'm going to file the tip of the strut flat and leave it for the sake of my sanity. Anyway, on to the pics- I used Bare Metal Foil to mask the windscreen.Figure I'll use a little section on the landing gear struts before it's all said and done. Foil burnished on windscreen, then I trimmed the foil to expose the framing with an X-acto blade. So

This is my first experience using Akan and so far so good. I prefer acrylics myself and since the beginning of this year have invested quite a bit of money in Vallejo Air after having a really good experience with their Model Color range. I think I like the Akan more than the Vallejo Air though I have yet to try brushing it. By the way, Vallejo Air primer is junk. I am not familiar with Mr Paint. Polly Scale was my go to acrylic for ages but Testors couldn't help but ruin that... Anyway, I mainly tried the Akan for the WWII VVS colors but might branch out from here to at least some modern So

I want to say it will spray without thinner. It was my first real application of the stuff, beyond a simple test. The first partial cup I put a drop of rubbing alcohol in for good luck, the last partial cup I put two drops in not wanting to start losing details with a heavy layer of paint. As far as durability with five days of cure time it's hard as heck. When I spray the green this weekend I will try to set do a pull off scratch test for you.

Update time. Put down some Light Blue paint today. First experience using Akan and I like it a lot. Added a drop or two of white to lighten the blue and a drop or two of 70% Isopropyl Alcohol for a nice wet final coat. Inside of gear door Outside of gear door (foiled side) Exterior colors I am using That's all for now. Thanks for looking! Jim S

Thanks for taking the time to share your progress. Really looks like a nice kit. Keep on keepin' on.

Thank you. Two weeks ago I almost bought the 1/48 Eduard I-16 you mentioned in the proposal thread but instead I picked up an Airfix 1/72 Spitfire XIV & Eduard UTI Mig-15. Think I should just bite the bullet and have my Optivisor surgically attached! Lol! Anyway, I want to participate in either the Far East, Test Group, or Spitfire Group Builds but seems like things are slow around here so I'll pick another model for this group build. It's going to be on the simple side so it won't be the Pe-2 or Pe-3 I've mentioned. Stay tuned! Jim S

Update time. Sorry for the lack of timely progress. My work schedule has been all over the place and I had to figure out a thing or two. After fixing a broken tail wheel strut and punching out foil bezels for the two "windows" I started masking for primer. Used just about every form of masking I know from Blu-Tack, foam wedges, wet TP,Elmer's Glue, and good old masking tape. My trusty Paasche H. Took a pic of it for no other reason than I received this 39 or so years ago and all I've ever done is clean it and replace the needles. After priming with black Stynylrez I painted the whe

Thanks for following along. I used the Nashua brand tape that Home Depot sells but I imagine you could use household foil and the adhesive the people use skinning their NMF models too. A word of advice- Try it on a scrap piece first. I found burnishing with the Q-tip did a nice job but when I used the tweezers to pick the door up the tweezers left a footprint in the foil where the adhesive compressed under the foil. Don't know if burnishing it with something more dense would help, maybe even your thumb with a cotton rag. Anyway, I really liked the way it turned out but the technique needs a

No paint as planned but most of the loose ends are all tied up. Exhaust pipes were mounted to the access panels, fit of the panels was "Fiddily" to say the least. I spent copious amounts of time dry fitting, sanding, shimming the doors, and restoring panel lines. I am glad that task is behind me. Added tubing for gun barrels and pitot, CA'd the tail wheel strut to the tail after reinforcing it with brass wire. I want to try MacGyver-ing a venturi tube for the starboard side of the fuselage so well see how that goes... A little bit of sanding and we'll be ready for primer. Thanks for

When I receive their flyer it's nice to see the wide variety of stock they offer but some things just make me shake my head. Telescopes? Hawaiian shirts? See-saw pricing?Hardbound Squadron/Signal books, really? If they want to draw business their way they have to look no further than the competition. Sprue Bros., Hannant's, Hobbbylinc, etc. Sensible website with a smart search engine. Stock levels with real time quantities, reasonable (actual) shipping and reliable service. Squadron's competition may have my email address but they refrain from filling my inbox with desperate "3 hours left" ema

Nice to see the work of somebody else who has a blatant disregard for kit instructions! Lol. But seriously though it looks like a really nice kit and I am amazed the cockpit is OOB. This really is a great era for our hobby, between the kits, decals, and aftermarket options it's astonishing. Anyway, I'm no 109 expert but this will be awesome when it is all said and done. Thank you for sharing your progress. Jim S