Jump to content
ARC Discussion Forums


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Romanator21

  1. That's crazy! Really nicely done. The detail is incredible!
  2. Sharp work! Well done, keep going!
  3. It's not MM metalizers, I'm using a regular MM color in gloss, and Testor's silver. But I've actually read that you can use MM metalizers with a regular brush and create very nice metal effects. http://www.essmc.org.au/Natural_Metal_Finish.html I'd like to try it sometime. It would save me a bundle if I could do it that way instead of having to rely on Tamiya sprays.
  4. Thank you. I'll be sure to wait at least a week next time. Sadly, that means I won't be able to finish my model to take it home for winter break.
  5. Small update - no pics: I'm trying to work out the paint for the underside. I've bought 2 different bottles of blue which turned out to be green, and finally I bought a dark blue hoping to lighten it. After adding white, it also turned out to be duck-egg green like the last two. That got me fairly upset. I guess paint manufacturers are really just using the same pigments in different concentrations and giving them totally different names. Also a side window popped out. :) This build is pretty discouraging at this point. I also think it looks like crap. Maybe I should have wasted my time on an easier kit.
  6. I would just like to say thanks for the advice everyone - I'm getting some decent lines now :)
  7. Of course. I've been told that I can re-coat after 6 hours, but I let it dry for over 24. Surely the paint shouldn't lift then, right?
  8. Hi everyone, I've got a couple questions for you all today: 1) Testors metal enamel colors are really good stuff, and for my normal purposes (details, interior, etc) they work just fine. However, I've been having trouble when covering larger areas with it. Usually I use Tamiya silver-leaf spray, but I wanted to save a buck and try it old-fashioned style (with a hairy-stick). I'm having trouble getting a good result in one coat. If I try to re-coat later (which is what I usually do to get even brush-painted finishes) the original layer lifts off and gums up the new layer, and looks ugly. I was able to strip off the day-old layer completely using simple enamel thinner, which leads to the conclusion that metal paints don't use a bonding agent. So, how do I lay down this stuff evenly in one pass? 2) The surface of my model has been polished to a gloss after filling, etc, and is lint, dirt, and oil free. When I paint, I keep the model in a closed drawer to prevent dust from settling on it. However, when painting with gloss, I can't help but notice little dust-like particles in the finish. So, how can I avoid this? Can I wet-sand with fine grades to restore a smooth finish? Thanks EDIT - the color lifting seems to happen with the gloss enamel as well. Well, this sucks. It seems I wont be able to apply any secondary coats, and simply have to get it perfect the first time. Unfortunately, I'm not infallible. What can I do about this?
  9. Thanks guys. I haven't gotten to the canopy frames just yet, but if the paint will creep, then we've got a big problem. I tried holding the model upside down, and painting with an un-loaded brush. This has helped a lot, but the line still isn't perfect. I hope it will come with practice Thanks for the tips so far guys.
  10. I should add that I'm using a "hairy stick" for this build. I have been burnishing with a fingernail only. Should I try something else? I will try to take advantage of gravity next time, that may do the trick. Thanks, and if anyone's got any more suggestions, I'd be happy to hear them!
  11. Hey guys I'm having a problem with Tamiya masking tape and my Humbrol enamels. The paint is creeping under the edge of the tape, and leaving a "jagged" line. I made sure it wasn't lifting in any places, but here we go. I managed to "save" my work by pushing back beyond the demarcation with a brush wet with thinner, allowing me to try again after it has dried. It has not harmed the underlying paint layer. So, what am I doing wrong? Is the paint too thin? I thought the consistency had to be "like milk", but I guess mine must be more like skim milk, rather than like whole The paint also seems to bleed regardless of the direction of my brush strokes. I would appreciate any advice guys, this is somewhat disappointing me right now.
  12. Where do I "sign-up?" And can I also enter a partially built kit (about 2 weeks old)?
  13. Little update. This is my fifth attempt at making the aileron actuator fairings and navigation lights. I tried sculpting putty, and a few other tricks which failed, but this method seems to work OK. When it dries, and if I'm satisfied, the plane will be ready for paint. I took Tamiya tape, cut an ellipse, applied some white glue with a tip of a meat skewer (which has a looped end which is great for opening Humbrol tins without damaging them). Afterwords the tape is pulled off, and a bit of glue remains in the proper shape, position, and volume. Spartan. Any suggestions for next time?
  14. I finished one landing light with clear sprue sanded to shape. One more to go ;) It's the first time I've ever attempted it, so I know it's not so great. After that I just need to add the nav lights, and aileron actuator fairing/blister and I'm all done with the airframe and can begin painting.
  15. It seems the group build is over, but I'm not quite done yet. Good work everyone who finished. Anyway, here's my progress - I got the canopy parts on at last. I was trimming the rear fuselage windows, and one pinged off to nowhere, and I couldn't find it. I scrounged the carpet for an hour, with a bright light, to no avail. So, I set about scratching one, and I was tinkering with the plane when I heard something rattling inside. It was the piece! So, now it's in place. The clear parts are thick, but very clear after some polishing and future. The cockpit is still easily visible.
  16. Awesome! I need to try something like that as soon as possible for my models. It probably won't look nearly as fine as your example though!
  17. Last pic is spot on. Looking at that photo alone, I would say it was a real one taken in 1944/45! You could really doctor history, making models like that. Can I ask how you made the base in that photo?
  18. Hope it arrives soon, I really want to see this one
  19. Aw, that's too bad, it looked like you were doing well. Will you submit something else for the GB?
  20. Although the 1946 is $10 with a direct-to-PC download, it was only $15 for my DVD (including shipping). I vastly prefer having a hard-copy of something in case things go kaput! With 1946 you will only have to download two patches, 4.08 and 4.09. I reinstalled my game a couple months ago, and the downloads worked without any problems. You will also be able to play online with everyone else if you have 4.09!
  21. ^Yes that's true - what a nice detail included by MPM! :) Check your references though - some didn't have bubble turrets like that, and simply had a bird-cage like this: I imagine that could save you some trouble. If you were into 1/72, you could just go ahead and build the ICM, MPM, or Frog version of the kit, ICM being the best from what I've read.
  22. Don't get too exasperated friend :) First of all, does Pacific Fighters run on your computer as it is, without any patches? Did you create a new folder under "My Computer" called "Il-2", or "games", etc. and install it to that location?
  23. First and second shots are golden - it really longs to fly!
  • Create New...