crowe-t

The years did go fast! The 50th anniversary will be here before we know it.

Manfred, This is great information! The ET was rotated while the foam was sprayed on? Mike.

Manfred, These are interesting pictures, especially the ET in Cell A. Maybe the ET rotates in the cell as the foam is being sprayed on. This is just a thought. Mike.

Manfred, I'm happy for you that the cleaning worked this time. It took a lot of work but the result was worth it. Mike.

Simon Atkinson did an outstanding job on his 1/72 stack. The ET is amazing. I really like the surface of his shuttle.

Thanks for posting this Pete! I can never get enough of your Cutaway Shuttle. Mike.

Manfred, I can't wait to see the stack come together. The Real Space SSME's are a bit oversized but once installed/painted and the whole stack is together they'll look fine. I used them on my Revell shuttle stack. I actually like how they look, being slightly larger than they should be. The Newware SSME's are more accurate looking. Maybe not 100% accurate but are more accurate. I do believe the openings of the Airfix SSME's are somewhat accurately sized and they look about the same size as the openings of the Newware SSME's. With the stack in the upright position the SSME's won't be seen too much. Mike.

Manfred, Have you tried using sand paper in the grooves to remove the wax or tried scraping it out? The WSF IT may still be the better option if you can't figure out a good way to clean the wax. Mike.

Way to go Bill! With all your great designs I'm sure you'll get a lot of use out of this printer. Kididdle, Reemistran, Kidaddle... I feel like I'm watching the Grinch with all the Who's.

Manfred, I haven't used Mr. Surfacer but it seems to be a filler primer which will work. A filler primer goes on a bit thicker to fill minor imperfections and scratches. I used Duplicolor Filler primer on the car body but it doesn't matter what brand is used. The Mr. Surfacer will do the same thing. Mike.

Manfred, For the WSF parts a high build or scratch filler primer works great to fill in some of the texture. I started doing this on a WSF car body to smooth it out. On the IT it won't be easy to sand all the primer smooth with all the small grooves but the IT will look OK with some texture. Considering all the problems you are having with cleaning off the wax and the fit issue the WSF IT may be a better option. Mike.

This looks just like those pictures. Great job!

The White Strong & Flexible(WSF) will have a rougher appearance. It might be good to simulate the IT's insulation but all the small details will also be rough. The FUD still might be the better option for this.

Hotdog, I'm glad to see you posting this build. You are doing a lot of work on this one and it's paying off. This is really a nice kit. The shuttle's shape looks very accurate. I can't wait to see it completed with all your photo-realistic decals. You do an amazing job on your decals. Mike.

Manfred, Here's a good video to watch. TDR Innovations designs and sells 3D printed parts. This video should help you with the cleaning process. I bought an FUD part from them although I haven't cleaned it yet. Mike. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mVYnbsnoB3Q Here is what Tim(who runs TDR Innovations told me about cleaning FUD parts). "For finishing, the steps are very similar to working with resin: 1. Clean the part. For this you can use Bletch White or Purple Power by soaking in solution for about an hour and giving it a good scrubbing with a tooth brush before ringing and drying. You can also use acetone to clean. Just soak for about 3 min, scrub with tooth brush and soak again in acetone for 1 min. Set on paper towel and let dry." Manfred, There is a product called Super Clean that is basically the same as Purple Power.