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JohnS

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Everything posted by JohnS

  1. Here's a brief backgrounder regarding the green maple leaf symbol. The green maple leaf was a symbol of Canada for many years prior to, and after, WWII. There were originally three green maple leaves on the Canadian coat of arms . The coat of arms was included on the red ensign - Canadian National Flag - beginning 1868. The coat of arms included on Canada's National Flag & the RCN's naval jack (including three green maple leaves) carried throughout WWII was authorized in 1921. The green leaves were changed to red in 1957, red being one of Canada’s official colours. On Febru
  2. Another quick update! Just finished the exterior details on the bridge and chart house. One unique feature on many of the Canadian MTB's was a small maple leaf plaque fixed to the centre of the bridge spray shield. I was able to print & attach the tiny plaque for my boat. The maple leaf was used to signify the boats were Canadian, in a similar manner to the green maple leaf painted on the funnels of larger Canadian warships during WWII. Although the green maple leaf was used on Canadian warships early in the war, the maple leaf symbol was formally introduced into
  3. Not a lot of room there, at all. It's really is too bad as those indicators are a nice addition, even though few people will ever notice them. The build looks fantastic. Can't wait to see everything closed up. I figure when it's time to replace the carpet in my den, we'll find enough lost tiny parts to build a whole other model.
  4. Hi again! Well, I've finally completed the bridge interior. Those little bits & pieces really take a long time to build. Here's a few shots of the finished bridge; ... and here's what I was able to include; Next up, I'll be finishing off the bridge exterior. Thanks again for looking in.
  5. Fantastic! Well done! I wanted to add these to my build, but forgot to attach them before I assembled the windscreen to the fuselage. Using tweezers, and a lot of fiddling (with a little cursing thrown in ) I finally got them to fit. I like your approach much better.
  6. Beauty! Nice job! How's the clearance between the windscreen & the top of the IP? I found it was pretty tight using the Aires cockpit.
  7. Beautiful Tomcat! All that converting, hacking and slashing really paid off. Your great photography makes that 'cat jump off the page.
  8. Getting real close to making that canopy fit perfectly. Whew, I'm starting to perspire just reading about your efforts to make that canopy fit.
  9. Thanks! That canopy repair was the worst part of the whole build. Those lightning strips were adhesive PE parts included with the CrossDelta Anti-Skid Walkways & Formation Lights set. I ended up removing the PE strips to re-polish the canopy after the repair. I replaced the PE strips with dark grey decals, cut from spare decal material in the parts bin. I applied the decals to the inside of the canopy. The PE strips were a little too wide & thick & the decals looked more realistic. I used CA glue for the repair for added strength, & masked t
  10. I had a similar problem on my Hasegawa build. I ended up spending way too much time fixing the problem. I tried carefully sanding the canopy, but the overhang was too wide & I ended up removing too much material. The canopy cracked. To fix the problem, I glued thin strips of plastic over the cracked area & tried sanding it down again. After many hours of sanding, puttying, & sanding, it turned out okay. Lesson learned - If your going to try to sand down that area of the canopy, be very, very careful. Here's photo of my repair.
  11. I've started adding the details to the MTB's bridge. Although there aren't many photos of the bridge, I was lucky to receive some invaluable information about the bridge details from the Naval Museum of Manitoba. Here are some in progress photos showing what I've done to date. 1) A photo of the actual bridge and my model bridge; 2) Some of the larger components; I made the canvas instrument covers from scrap pieces of close weave silk material (Note to wife: No clothing was harmed for this build. ). I used a gauge face found
  12. Just finished downloading my 13 years worth of photos off Photobucket & deleted my two accounts. Luckily, most of the Internet forums I frequent allow image uploads (e.g. ARC-thank you!).
  13. Test #2 Wow, that's a big one!
  14. I took a little detour to make the hull number decals. I've made inkjet printed decals before but I tried something new, this time. Instead of spraying the recommended glossy lacquer decal sealer over the detail printout, I experimented with using matte clear lacquer. A thin coat of matte lacquer worked really well, sealing the decals and not affecting the decals' ability to stick to the model. Unlike most aircraft model builds, I'm not planning on applying a clear coat over this model. As a result, I wanted the decals to have a matte finish to blend in with the flat paint finish. I'm re
  15. Thanks for the reply. I'll give it a try. Hopefully, it'll work okay (fingers crossed).
  16. Hi, all. I've printed a set of home-made decals for my current MTB project. In the past, I've used Testors decal bonder to seal the printed decals. The Testers bonder is a clear gloss lacquer. On this project, I'm not planning on using a final flat or gloss clear coat overall on the model. I'm painting most of the model with flat paint & it would be nice if the decals were flat as well (with no additional top coat). So, I was wondering if anyone has had experience using a flat clear lacquer as a decal bonder, to seal the printed decals? Does it work, or should I stick with the gloss
  17. Hi Steve. Glad to see you back. Thanks again for your comments. The 6 pdr did turn out pretty good. I still haven't mastered painting the smooth brass photo etched parts, right the first time. Now that it's done, I'm going to try & not touch it for fear of chipping the paint off the brass parts.
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