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Joe Hegedus

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About Joe Hegedus

  • Rank
    Life Member (Mon-Key Handler)
  • Birthday 10/11/1965

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Patuxent River, Maryland
  • Interests
    US carrier aviation, post-WWII; Modern RAF/RN; Flight Test aircraft; some odds and ends...

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  1. Can't help you with the kit parts, Brent (don't have the kit myself), but if you don't have any success finding them you can try using clear 2-part resin (the kind of thing they sell in crafty stores that people use to encase rocks, bugs, etc...). Cover the outside of the window openings with a piece of wax paper (to prevent the resin from bonding with the cover) and then a piece of something like heavy paper cardstock (manilla folder) taped in place. Fill each window from the inside, when cured remove the outside cover and polish the resin windows. You can also use something
  2. Yes, the 40% coupon is going away, but for the past several weeks, they've had all kits 40% off every other week. This week is one of the weeks that has all kits 40% off.
  3. Airfix has a separate part for closed tailwheel doors - they have you cut off the open doors from the sides of the tailwheel well, and add the closed doors after the fuselage is assembled.
  4. For a wheels-up Mustang, I think you'd be hard pressed to do better than the recent Airfix release. It includes a wheels-up option in the box and also alternate flaps designed to be raised. Plus, it's a pretty good kit overall (some might prefer the Meng or Eduard kits but I don't recall Meng having an option to raise the gear without surgery, and Eduard is rather fiddley with a lot of small details that would be invisible with retracted gear, a pilot in the seat, and a closed canopy). I've built all 3, and of those 3 Airfix is my kit of choice for the best balance of detail, buildability,
  5. Use the default autoblade settings for Washi sheets (it comes up blade setting 2, force 17, speed 7, and 1 pass on my machine).
  6. Agreed. I built one (converted it to a C-152 II a few years ago) as the airplane I soloed and took my checkride it. Biggest problems were self-induced due to the conversion bits required (wingtip droops, modifications to the cowl), the basic kit was quite decent. I think it may be a tad underscale though (close to 1/50?). https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=3874724083260&set=a.3874723963257
  7. OK, I just checked my spares; I don't have that specific tank (odd, as I have a Monogram Razorback built that I used a flat tank from the bubbletop on - I should have the leftover but I don't). I do have an extra flat tank from the Monogram Bubbletop, and a crap-ton of cylindrical paper tanks from various other kits. You're welcome to either.
  8. Just to clarify, you need a cylindrical tank from a Monogram P-47? I may have one in the spares box; I'll take a look and let you know.
  9. If the XP-51G used a Griffon engine, then yes you can use that prop. If it had a Merlin (or Allison, or pretty much any other engine), then no. The Griffon turned the opposite direction from the Merlin, so it used a left-hand prop. Merlins and most other engines used right-handed props.
  10. No alcoholic beverages at the bench. No computer in the shop (too much distraction from actual building).
  11. Off the top of my head, a boxing of the Revell 1/32 WIldcat included a book on WWII USN Fighters, the 1/48 TBD Devastator had a book on WWII USN bombers, the 1/48 F9F Panther had part 1 of USN Jets. There was also a part 2 USN Jets that I t hink was in a 1/72 F-14 boxing of the newer Revell AG kit, one on the Century Series that I think was in a 1/48 F-105 kit, and one on the Blue Angels. I don't know what kit the Blue Angel one came with. All were from written by Bert Kinzey.
  12. That WAS the rollout scheme. It was painted over the white/orange flight test markings, I believe. The white/orange ships had ejection seats, basically the same seat as an FA-18A/B (not NACES).
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