Hooker169

Im building a North Central DC-9-30 for a friend at work and was wondering what the correct color for the wing to body fairing at the wing root was. The decals say light gray but what would it be specificaly in model master colors? Thanks in advance guys. Mike

I am going through the same issue right now with a DC-9-30 Im building. I foiled the entire wing then masked the Coroguard area then painted. The model master enamel went down well but when removing the Tamiya tape some of the foil lifted towards the wing tips. I re secured the foil which was no big deal. Now Im moving on to the white over natural metal fuselage. I thing Im going to paint the whole thing white then foil up to the demarcation line. I expect issues with the foil wrinkling around the filet panels near the wing root and around the raydome where the nose progressively gets sh

I just got some of the Mona Lisa foil adhesive from Hobby Lobby for $2.99. I tried it on a scrap SU-27 and it took some time for it dry but once it got tacky it worked well. I used a thicker tin foil this time but I think I will get the no name brand thin stuff tomorrow and try it. I thought I would be a slicky boy and get some silver leaf while I was there with the thought of using it on complex curves to reduce wrinkles but when I looked at the stuff it is soooo thin I felt like I would tear it before I could lay it down. Has anyone ever had good results with silver leaf?

Yup, it can keep flying depending on its weight, altitude, ect. There is a sprag clutch in the engine transmission which free wheels when the engine is lost or shut down. This keeps the dead engine from dragging down the rotor RPM's. Usually loss of an engine was followed up with a "roll-on" landing. Dont really want to be hovering all over the place on only one motor. Oh, and no I'm not a pilot, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn express last night!

I was wondering the same thing. Thank goodness for the search function. So RBF streamers for the 3 gear pins, one on each pylon. What about the seats. I remember seeing streamers on the seats but how many and where are they positioned? Thanks guys

Another visual differance for the D model is the cutout on the leading edge of the aft pylon for the combining transmission oil cooler. The C model doesnt have it.

Hi Albert, First of all I havent built this kit but from looking at some pics I had an idea how. The way I would do it is first cut two equel lengths of string, then glue the standoff to one end of the string with CA glue, then I would drill the smallest possible hole in the leading edge of the horizontal stab and glue the other end of the string inside that hole with CA. Then hopefully I measured right and I would stretch the string end with the standoff and attach that side to the fusalage with more CA glue holding the required 10 seconds till bonded. And with any luck continue the buil

Thanks guys I do appreciate the encouragement. Im going to check these sites out and search amazon to see what they have as far as instruction. I received some help from at least a half dozen guys last night and this morning so I cant thank ARC enough. Its a good feeling knowing guys who have been through the same,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Jeez, starting to sound like Im at one of those meetings, uh um, anyway Thanks Men.

Thanks so much guys. I really do appreciate the reply's. I owe you guys a drink.

Well I guess I just did, sorry. Ive been at this for 9 hours and its killing me. I took some advise and down loaded the free trial of CorelDraw and began trying to draw the November Delta insignia for VA-304. Its a really nice program but extremely brutal for those who arent familiar. So I got the outline down in 4 hours then when I tried to color it gray for some reason it didnt take. So the next five was spent trying different combo's and layers and still nothing. I guess I'm venting more anything although ANY suggestions at this point would be warmly welcomed. It just seams to me that

Let us know how you do on the nose conversion and if you were able to get the canopy replaced. I think you are right about trying to make a bad kit look good but my kit was completely demoralizing when I opened it. So last night I actually found an Academy Su-27UB and ordered that and regained my motivation somewhat. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

I have the same kit but this one is the Hobbycraft boxing. Both of which are 10's on the crappy copy scale. They are cheap knockoffs of the Academy kit. I tossed mine when I looked at the canopy and saw the seem running down the middle. Ya, no big deal, dealt with em before,,,, but on the inside? Flash everywhere, the fuselage wouldn't even line up(the bottom was shorter than the top), and the surface had the texture of 60 grit sand paper. So as far as after market stuff lining up and fitting, I sincerely doubt it. Dont waist your money on this pig. Sorry to burst your bubble but I wan

I ran into the same problem two years ago. After searching high and low, dustiepal's link was the best I could come up with. Maybe if you PM a guy named Pavelow44 on here he may be able to help you. From what I recall he is still active in the Pavelow community.

I dont have one but I saw one on ebay last month. I bid on it when it was $10 and eventually got outbid. I then watched it go for over $100. Something tells me they are hard to find :)

You are right about us having no business speculating about an accident but we are not in the business of accident investigation. Atleast 50% of the people on this board are or have been pilots or mechanics in the aviation industry so talking amongst ourselves on possible causes shouldn't be out of bounds. There will be multiple factors that contributed to this horrible event as in every incident. Wet runway, non-grooved surface, T/Rev locked out, and attempted go-around will all come into play. We will have to wait and see. But for now I'll pray for the families.

Sorry Jeff, ya beat me to it.

Simple Green, its the name of a house hold cleaning product similar to Fantastic or Clorox bathroom cleaner only it is green and comes in a spray bottle. I use it to clean my brushes after applying future for decaling. It cleans the acrylic based future right off so it should work on your kit no problem.

Rich, that would be great! I'll shoot ya a PM. I was pretty angry about the whole situation. You know when you take the kit, which isnt cheap, add the Cobra Co conversion and the spare -60 kit I got just for the decals, I had some change sunk into this one. And then it is sitting there with no head. :D Its pretty frustrating, but hopefully things just got better!

Anyone got a Revell 1/48 ch-53 in the parts box? Not likely but what the hey. Just moved to Atlanta from the north east and packed the rotor head seperate from the fusalage. Yup you guessed it. Gone. Someone tossed the flat box containing the main rotor. So now I got a MH-53J/M with no head. Any help would be appreciated guys. Thanks. Tried to upload a pic of the "complete" model but says Im not allowed.

I was clicking through a found this video taken from a "Heavy Metal" documentary about an Israeli F-15 that had a mid air with an A-4 which totally stripped his right wing from the airplane at the root..........and he landed!!!! You guys ever hear about this one? Absolutely amazing! Linky http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=b5a79a516c

Thanks guys, I feel a little better about them now. I should be able to put them on this week. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks again.

I just got some FCM decals from Brazil depicting an F-5E "Senta A Poa" sheet FCM 48-21. Anyway, I noticed that they were wet transfer decals. Never heard of such a thing. So I was reading through the directions (well, the wife was trying to interperate since they are in portuguese) and it says to lay them down like any other decal, wait 24 hours then lift off the protective film and seal them. But,,,,, I use future on all my decals. Question, future wont work on these right? Im afraid that I will seal on the film and even if I could lift it, it would leave an obvious outline of where it

Fifty thousand pounds of bone crushing testosterone!!!! B) NICE!!!!

Flat black. Chip up the leading edges to duplicate wind and sand errossion using silver to expose the titanium caps (if I recall correctly) under the black. They do fade pretty quickly so maybe a drop or two of light grey or just use aircraft interior black which has a grey hugh to it. I would guess that the new CSAR would also have flat black blades since all would be manufactured in the same factory and would be interchangable across both services. Hope this helps.