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Hooker169

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Posts posted by Hooker169

  1. Some 2 years ago now Boeing proposed the 777-200LR with the by then largest engines ever put on an airliner. I don't know what type they are but I thought 300 were produced before the release of the LR (which I think has no orders yet...)

    Delta has an order for two of the 200LR right now with options for three more later. These will be powered by GE-90's instead of the Trent's we have on the 200ER's now. These are actually orders we already had in place just upgraded to the LR's to try to keep expanding to asia and the middle east. Anyway sorry for being off topic.

    Mike

  2. How expensive is the metal leaf adhesive? My modeling budget is fairly tight at the moment, but I want to finish my Ki-44 and F3F-2 before too long.

    I just got some of the Mona Lisa foil adhesive from Hobby Lobby for $2.99. I tried it on a scrap SU-27 and it took some time for it dry but once it got tacky it worked well. I used a thicker tin foil this time but I think I will get the no name brand thin stuff tomorrow and try it. I thought I would be a slicky boy and get some silver leaf while I was there with the thought of using it on complex curves to reduce wrinkles but when I looked at the stuff it is soooo thin I felt like I would tear it before I could lay it down. Has anyone ever had good results with silver leaf?

  3. Yup, it can keep flying depending on its weight, altitude, ect. There is a sprag clutch in the engine transmission which free wheels when the engine is lost or shut down. This keeps the dead engine from dragging down the rotor RPM's. Usually loss of an engine was followed up with a "roll-on" landing. Dont really want to be hovering all over the place on only one motor.

    Oh, and no I'm not a pilot, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn express last night! :thumbsup:

  4. ...the wire aerials from the tail horizontal stabilizers to the vertical fin on top of the fusalage?

    Hi Albert,

    First of all I havent built this kit but from looking at some pics I had an idea how. The way I would do it is first cut two equel lengths of string, then glue the standoff to one end of the string with CA glue, then I would drill the smallest possible hole in the leading edge of the horizontal stab and glue the other end of the string inside that hole with CA. Then hopefully I measured right and I would stretch the string end with the standoff and attach that side to the fusalage with more CA glue holding the required 10 seconds till bonded. And with any luck continue the build with out breaking the string 5 or 6 times :thumbsup:

    Hope I atleast gave you some ideas. Let me know how it goes.

    Mike

  5. Don't feel bad, when I was first learning how to use Illustrator, I got so frustrated that I wanted to chop my own hands off. Once you "get it" though, it's a sweet feeling. For me the key was one book. I don't know if there is that "one book" out there for Draw, but the one I got for AI had all the answers and a great index where I could look things up by subject.

    If you're interested in getting a book on Draw, I suggest going to the nearest Borders (or whatever) and grabbing all the Draw books they have and grabbing a seat and look through them all. Try to pick a subject and see how each book handles it.

    Good luck

    Thanks guys I do appreciate the encouragement. Im going to check these sites out and search amazon to see what they have as far as instruction. I received some help from at least a half dozen guys last night and this morning so I cant thank ARC enough. Its a good feeling knowing guys who have been through the same,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Jeez, starting to sound like Im at one of those meetings, uh um, anyway Thanks Men.

  6. Well I guess I just did, sorry. Ive been at this for 9 hours and its killing me. I took some advise and down loaded the free trial of CorelDraw and began trying to draw the November Delta insignia for VA-304. Its a really nice program but extremely brutal for those who arent familiar. So I got the outline down in 4 hours then when I tried to color it gray for some reason it didnt take. So the next five was spent trying different combo's and layers and still nothing. I guess I'm venting more anything although ANY suggestions at this point would be warmly welcomed. It just seams to me that 9 hours to draw one basic design is rediculous. Anyway, here is what Ive got so far. Maybe someone can give me a hand with this. Thanks guys.Backup_of_DeltaNovember.jpg

  7. Let us know how you do on the nose conversion and if you were able to get the canopy replaced. I think you are right about trying to make a bad kit look good but my kit was completely demoralizing when I opened it. So last night I actually found an Academy Su-27UB and ordered that and regained my motivation somewhat. Good luck and let us know how it goes. :thumbsup:

  8. I have the same kit but this one is the Hobbycraft boxing. Both of which are 10's on the crappy copy scale. They are cheap knockoffs of the Academy kit. I tossed mine when I looked at the canopy and saw the seem running down the middle. Ya, no big deal, dealt with em before,,,, but on the inside? Flash everywhere, the fuselage wouldn't even line up(the bottom was shorter than the top), and the surface had the texture of 60 grit sand paper. So as far as after market stuff lining up and fitting, I sincerely doubt it. Dont waist your money on this pig. Sorry to burst your bubble but I wanted to keep you from waisting your time, money (and your sanity :D ) trying to build this heaping steamer. B)

  9. I ran into the same problem two years ago. After searching high and low, dustiepal's link was the best I could come up with. Maybe if you PM a guy named Pavelow44 on here he may be able to help you. From what I recall he is still active in the Pavelow community.

  10. You are right about us having no business speculating about an accident but we are not in the business of accident investigation. Atleast 50% of the people on this board are or have been pilots or mechanics in the aviation industry so talking amongst ourselves on possible causes shouldn't be out of bounds.

    There will be multiple factors that contributed to this horrible event as in every incident. Wet runway, non-grooved surface, T/Rev locked out, and attempted go-around will all come into play. We will have to wait and see. But for now I'll pray for the families.

  11. Simple Green, its the name of a house hold cleaning product similar to Fantastic or Clorox bathroom cleaner only it is green and comes in a spray bottle. I use it to clean my brushes after applying future for decaling. It cleans the acrylic based future right off so it should work on your kit no problem.

  12. Rich, that would be great! :thumbsup: I'll shoot ya a PM. I was pretty angry about the whole situation. You know when you take the kit, which isnt cheap, add the Cobra Co conversion and the spare -60 kit I got just for the decals, I had some change sunk into this one. And then it is sitting there with no head. :D Its pretty frustrating, but hopefully things just got better!

  13. Anyone got a Revell 1/48 ch-53 in the parts box? Not likely but what the hey. Just moved to Atlanta from the north east and packed the rotor head seperate from the fusalage. Yup you guessed it. Gone. Someone tossed the flat box containing the main rotor. So now I got a MH-53J/M with no head. Any help would be appreciated guys. Thanks.

    Tried to upload a pic of the "complete" model but says Im not allowed.

  14. I just got some FCM decals from Brazil depicting an F-5E "Senta A Poa" sheet FCM 48-21. Anyway, I noticed that they were wet transfer decals. Never heard of such a thing. So I was reading through the directions (well, the wife was trying to interperate since they are in portuguese) and it says to lay them down like any other decal, wait 24 hours then lift off the protective film and seal them. But,,,,, I use future on all my decals. Question, future wont work on these right? Im afraid that I will seal on the film and even if I could lift it, it would leave an obvious outline of where it used to be. Does anyone have a suggestions on the best way to put these down. I also read that these are difficult to remove the film on complex surfaces without removing the decal or tearing it. Anything would be a help. Thanks guys.

  15. Flat black. Chip up the leading edges to duplicate wind and sand errossion using silver to expose the titanium caps (if I recall correctly) under the black. They do fade pretty quickly so maybe a drop or two of light grey or just use aircraft interior black which has a grey hugh to it. I would guess that the new CSAR would also have flat black blades since all would be manufactured in the same factory and would be interchangable across both services. Hope this helps.

  16. First, I would like to know what colors everyone uses for detailing modern day pilots. Last night I used MM marine green for the flight suit, MM dk gull grey for the helmet, mask and MM gunship grey for the sliding parts of the helmet. Dont know if it is right though. I looked on the web for pics and this was the closest I could come. For the web gear I used a MM european green from my FB-111a kit a while ago. If you guys could give me a current color line it would be great.

    Second, I am having problems with over sanding raised panel lines on my 1/48 Monogram Brazilian

    F-5E "Senta A Poa". I was thinking that if I outlined the lines with tape and then ran a beed of thick CA and then knocked doen the edges it would be ok, but I'm not sure. So instead of trying and messing up and sanding all night I thought I would ask. Well, thanks boys, I appreciate the help.

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