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Dndieje

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Everything posted by Dndieje

  1. That is VERY smart Sir ! Excellent build and display
  2. Belly and nacelles are Pantone COOL GREY. Closest match I could find is FS16515 (Canadian Voodoo Grey). As David says, wings and engine pylons are proprietary Boeing / Airbus grey depending on type. You could use a Light Gull Grey but an easier option is to spray them the same colour as the belly. After decalling spray the fuselage and engines semi-matt and the wings and pylons matt. This will create a subtle difference in hue between the two.
  3. Adding vinegar essence to the water will also help softening decals. It will "attack" Future / Klear if you have used that as a gloss cote but that is easily repaired by simply applying more Klear when the decal is dry. I had something similar happen once but that was with very old decals.
  4. Here you have some reading material that might make the choice easier :D Revell instructions: http://www.revell.de/manual/03093.PDF HB instructions: http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10139888 hope this helps.
  5. Excellent news man, congratulations ! Mine's a Stella
  6. Oh man, got to get myself one of these ! Might need to move to warmer country first though.
  7. I believe that is indeed the intention of the Xtracolor paint. X302 Is the blue used up until 1996 and X312 is used from 1996 onwards. Main thing is to match the colour with the blue of the KLM logo on the tail. In the pre-1996 colourscheme the KLM lettering on the tail was dark blue. For this scheme you "should" use X302: http://www.airliners.net/photo/KLM---Royal/Boeing-737-2T5-Adv/2025563/L/&sid=e228a840aab041f29bd78b4ae2166b5d After 1996(ish) the KLM lettering turned to light blue which should be the same as the upper fuselage: http://www.airliners.net/photo/KLM---Royal/Boeing
  8. There was a thread on this forum about the 1/35 Academy one: http://s362974870.onlinehome.us/forums/air/index.php?showtopic=195722 Personally I only know of the Italeri 1/72 one which is quite nice but does not have the attached stretchers as far as I know. Pavla used to do a Bell-47 with a very nice etched fret included. The plastic was bloody awful though.
  9. The actual colour is Pantone 299. Model Master 28127 seems very close and is available in a rattle-can.
  10. I have done some experimenting with vacforming canopies and small items like landing-light covers myself. Like yourself I had trouble with bubbles but that was (in my case) always due to heating the plastic too quickly. Maybe the reason you don't get the problem with thinner plastic is because you have to be gentler heating it. The structure of the plastic does get a bit "pebbly" but probably that is because you're doing things to the plastic it does not like. Once shaped it doesn't like to be altered and you will never be able to re-shape it keeping the plastic at a constant temperature.
  11. Got to love the Iranians. First they come out with news of the glorious successes of the Iranian armed forces: Posted 18:55 local time. They managed to shoot it down causing "slight damage" ! http://www.irna.ir/ENNewsShow.aspx?NID=30697771&SRCH=1 Then at 23:11 local time "confirmation" by the despicable West of the loss: http://www.irna.ir/ENNewsShow.aspx?NID=30697932&SRCH=1 Word for word from sources found freely on the web. They found the thing after it had gone AWOL.
  12. I believe so, I think it's C-135FR specific. What got me snookered is that you get 2 of them but that might just be because it's on the engine sprue which is included twice. Don't have the kit at hand (it's safely boxed away for the moment) so I couldn't tell you if you get one for the "standard" intake already present on part 102A and an optional one for a C-135FR or if it's just a duplicate casting because of the double engine sprue. I do recall it's a airco part that goes on the lower wing insert. Hope this helps.
  13. From what I gather part 314 goes on the inside of part 102A of the Italeri boxing, believe it's a cover for the airco inlet.
  14. As far as I know the Marines are actually a Dutch invention. The Dutch Marine Corps (Korps Mariniers) was founded in 1665. The idea was to create a seaborne infantry which not only could be utilized in naval operations, as a sort of boarding party to take close combat to the enemy on their own vessels, but could also be used as a landing force on enemy soil. Naval conflicts in the 17th century were no doubt impressive but really only involved lines of ships shooting the Bejeezus out of one another from some distance away. The idea was that, if you got close enough, suitably trained infantr
  15. I might have one, I'll have a look. Send me a PM, I'm in the Netherlands so no trouble posting it :D
  16. Can't help you with the Carpena ones but you can have my leftover Kinetic ones (complete) if you want: http://www.hyperscale.com/2007/reviews/kits/images/kinetic4801reviewmk_2.jpg
  17. Wow .... just wow. You've outdone yourself again Chris !
  18. Stunning model of a very beautiful aircraft
  19. If it's any help there's a little trick I tend to use in larger scale models. If the windows aren't too curved I always glue them in on the outside of the fuselage. If they are included in the kit as a strip I cut them out individually. Always works best if the fuselage isn't assembled yet. It's a bit more work getting the windows flush with the fuselage but this way there are no "steps" or gaps. If you use a fairly aggressive decal-setting solution or maybe even Klear there should be no noticeable decalfilm on the windows anyway I think.
  20. A Volga-Dnepr one would be cool. Paintscheme is pretty easy and someone might have some AN-124 decals left over.
  21. This site might help a bit: http://www.jbg37.de/html/dreiseitenriss.html The text reads (roughly translated): The camouflage scheme of the Mig-23BN in JBG-37 (Fighter-Bomber Sqn. 37) was inspired by the usual scheme used by the countries attached to the Warsaw Pact. There was however no uniform camouflage scheme for the aircraft in the squadron. Every aircraft had a more-or-less "individual" camouflage pattern. Reason was that periodic maintenance, depending on the situation, was done at a local level. There were also differences in the manufacture of the BUNA paints that were used. T
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