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TomcatFanatic123

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Everything posted by TomcatFanatic123

  1. Steve, Beautiful job on that engine fairing ;) . I'm in the process of converting my 1/32nd Tamiya from an A to a B, so I'm going to be doing this job myself here pretty soon. May I please print these out to use as reference pics? :(
  2. Well! So nice to be back here after spending the last week and a half in bed with the flu. Oooohhhh, makes me mad ;) I hate the flu. Got a seam that I filled, but somehow it developed a hairline crack. Anyway, here's my questions... 1. Should I try and pull the crack apart a little and drop the glue in the crack, or should I just drop it right on top of the seam and then sand it down? 2. Will CA glue mar the surface of the plastic? 3. Do I need adjust the drying time of the CA glue if I plan to sand it (let it dry longer, don't let it get quite set, that sort of thing)? 4. And finally, what grit sandpaper should I use to sand the CA glue? This is my first time using CA to fill a seam, so please excuse the stupid questions
  3. Awesome! Thanks so much, really appreciate it!
  4. Andy, It's in this area right here, and along the other intake, just not as bad... Brady...Thanks for the input, man
  5. While building my Tamiya Tomcat, I filled in some seams between the intakes and the fuselage. The filler dried, I sanded it, and thought all was well, but as I was working on it today, I happened to check the joints I filled and noticed that the filler had all cracked and separated from the joint. It's really only a hairline crack and it's hard to see, but I have a feeling it'll get worse over time. The gaps I filled are really long and quite narrow. Any suggestions on how to fix this? I was thinking putting a drop of CA glue on the joint and sanding it once it dried, thinking that may seal the filler and prevent it from cracking even more, but I wanted to ask here first before I went and screwed something up. Thanks for the help
  6. OK, got a quick little something that I need help with. I have a set of Black Box GRU-7 ejection seats for my 1/32nd Tamiya Tomcat, and I also bought the Eduard Seat Detail set for the F-14A. See link - F-14A Seat Detail Set Can I use this with the Black Box seats? I realize I won't need to use ALL of the parts, matter of fact, the only ones I'm really interested in using are the ejection handles (both overhead and crotch handles), and the little warning placards.
  7. OK, so I know I should already know this, but here goes anyway. I'm about to decal an AIM-54 Phoenix from the Tamiya Tomcat kit, and I was wondering what the proper procedure for Future and decals is. My first question is this - I put Future before the decals go on, and then another coat afterwards right? My second question is this - Do I just put Future where the decals will go, or do I put a coat on the whole missile? My third and final question is this - How long should I let the Future dry before I decal the missile, and how long after I decal should I put on the other coat of Future? Thanks for the help, guys, and hopefully I didn't confuse the hell out of you. :P
  8. I'm just wondering which one's right. The IPMS Stockholm website says that FS 32019 - Tan - is a match to Tamiya's XF-52 - Flat Earth. Another website (click here) said that FS 30118 - Field Drab - was the match to XF-52. Which one's right?
  9. Wow, this helped me out too, I was just about to post a similar question!!! ;)
  10. Has anybody ever heard of using a black Sharpie marker to preshade panel lines? Does anybody think it would work? Just kind of curious, as I'm quite far away from preshading anything on the build I'm doing now.
  11. :) Thanks to each and every one of you for the help. I never really thought of the two shades creating a weathered look - that could be sweet. This is my first attempt at making a filthy bird with preshading, weathering, patch-up jobs and all that crap. :D
  12. OK, I don't know how well I'll end up explaining this, but here goes: My question is this. Once I put the intakes on and mask off the duct openings so I can airbrush the fuselage, will I be able to touch up with a regular brush around the areas that I might have missed with the airbrush (or may have been covered with the masking) without it looking like 2 different shades of Light Ghost Gray?
  13. OK...I've NEVER airbrushed anything in my life. This will be my first attempt at it. I'm about ready to airbrush the fuselage of my 1/48th Hase Tomcat. I've heard the paint should be about the consistency of milk, but I'm just curious, all you experienced airbrushers out there, what is a good ratio of paint to thinner?
  14. WOW!! To be honest, I'd have never thought of sponge dabbing as a modeling technique. Sweet work, man!!
  15. Thanks guys for all the pointers. I can't wait to get started on this project! Oh, and thanks a lot for the heads up about not breathing the resin dust - I have a heart/lung condition that makes it EXTREMELY important for me to take extra precautions when I'm around anything having to do with inhaling any type of fumes/dusts. Well, if I have any more questions after I get started, I know that all I have to do is come here and all you smart people will help me out ;) . THANKS AGAIN! :)
  16. I ordered a BB cockpit for my Tamiya 1/32nd scale F-14, and it arrived today. When I opened the box, I was a little intimidated... :D. So I figured I'd come here to ask a few questions... What exactly do I use to cut the large parts (seats, instrument hoods, etc.) It looks and feels like it's too tough for an X-acto knife. On the other hand, the smaller parts (control stick, etc) look like they probably could be sliced off with the X-acto knife, but I'm afraid to even try, because I can just see them snapping. Secondly, what grit sandpaper should I use, or would a file be better? Thirdly, I'm assuming I just use superglue for assembly. Do I assume correctly? Thanks in advance for all the help...I know I can always come here for answers to my silly questions ;)
  17. Just Futureized a gear well, and wondering how long does that stuff take to dry?
  18. I found the article on Future in the latest FSM extremely interesting. When you think about it, it is really amazing what that stuff can do. The whole model-building scene is relatively new to me, and to be honest, I just learned about this stuff when I discovered this website about a month and a half ago. I bought a big bottle of it about 2 weeks ago, but haven't had the opportunity to use it yet, because I'm not at a point on any of my builds right now where I need it. I'm actually really anxious to try it, though. Hey, kind of makes you wonder if there's any other undiscovered miracle products out there that you'd never think would work wonders on models...hmm <_<
  19. What size brush should I use to drybrush cockpit details with? I'm getting ready to drybrush a 48th scale Tomcat. Any help would be appreciated...Thanks ;)
  20. Question: I'm about ready to start the cockpit assembly on my Hase Tomcat, and I'm going to use the Eduard superdetail set (the color one). The way I read the instructions, on some of the instrument panels, it's a combination of the PE parts and a little painting. Should I paint the panels and THEN put the PE parts on, or should I put the PE before I paint. Oh, and another thing...I'm not sure if I'm the only one that has this problem, but my gloss and flat white paints won't adhere for crap - even when I use primer. I end up doing about 3 coats of it to get a good solid shade of white. I either use the little bottles of Testors, or I use Model Master, whichever is readily available to me (if I use Model Master, it's Insignia White, if I use Testors, I use the regular whites). Any help would be appreciated!! Thanks a lot!
  21. Help! I'm not real sure about what I've gotten myself into...I hope I haven't jumped in over my head. I started building the Hasegawa Pacific Fleet Squadrons 1/48th "A" Tomcat a few weeks ago. I was going to start with the cockpit, but decided - if I'm going to build this thing, damn it, it's going to look perfect! I ordered the color PE cockpit detail set from Eduard, and downloaded the instructions from the Eduard website. I have never, ever used photo-etch in my life. I was reading the Tools 'n' Tips section here in ARC regarding working with PE parts, but I'm still a little confused. I think the thing I'm most concerned about is gluing...is there a special type of glue, or is the cyanoacrylate that it talks about in tools 'n' tips the same as just regular model glue, or is it a special glue you use for the PE The great people here at ARC have made me feel comfortable asking silly questions like this, and any help that anybody could give me would be wonderful. Thanks a bunch
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