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Simon

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About Simon

  • Rank
    Canopy Polisher

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  • Location
    UK
  • Interests
    1/48 Aircraft - from WW2 to modern.
  1. Hmm, interesting ideas. I am interested to see if any of you folks have any alternate ideas to help answer this question. (For a number of kits I have cheated and gone with Moskit exhaust stacks which are great, but I have not been able to find any Moskit Spit Mk V stacks and have gone with great detail Ultracast items instead: but any other thoughts on great weathered effect colours/treatments?) Cheers.
  2. To align tanks you can drill very tiny holes in the tank and pylon and use thin wire stuck in each hole to create a plug. The glue can gradually set but the tank is held in the correct position by the wire plug. Nice model and I like the Nato/Litchen green combination.
  3. I second that! :) B) Posting here is not a contest and all of us learn this and that and I´m no expert, so I try to contribute and to learn, also :) Happy modelling! Looking forward to see your next kit! :) :P István What ever gave you the idea that this was a contest?? Posting construction and configuration errors gives guy a heads up for the next time, nothing more, nothing less. After all, it was posted in the "Critque" Forum. Mike V Hey Mike, I think you gave really useful feedback.
  4. Just seen a 1:1 Thud at RAF Duxford yesterday. (It is in Hanger 3 being refurbed for static display) That is a great looking model of a very important aircraft type: a good tribute to the guys that flew them.
  5. What a great plane! Very well done. What does it say on the wing leading edge? Can't make it out on the compressed picture file. Oh and I agree the yellow round the canopy is a real neat job. Not easy at all.
  6. Superb job: Very good weathering. Worth touching up that tyre however: there is a bit of grey paint on the black that looks weird. But the rest is flawless.
  7. I'd agree with this critique that the panel lines are too black. I prefer to use a black-burnt siena oil wash for panel lines on BMF. However, it is a small nit pick and the overall built and result is top class. Good job! :)
  8. Bill, that is so good that you ought to do a write up for Steve to include in his daily update. It is also a very interesting subject. - Simon.
  9. Isn't that the Highline series? I would consider that series overkill for modeling. Maybe not overkill but definitely over priced. Mike Ohh - that depends on how much you pay...
  10. It is a fantastic model all round. I agree with the earlier comments about the subtle and effective weathering and great exhausts. But you know the most impressive thing is the superb satin quality of paint finish and that fact that the tricky decals have ABSOLUTELY NO SLIVERING at least that I can see. Not easy on this kit. Good job! - Simon.
  11. Looks very, very good. Well done getting the panel colours right with the fin, gun covers etc.
  12. I find it hillarious that Iwata salesmen in the past have tried to sell the Iwata as an airbrush that was so smooth it can control the amount of air coming out by how far down you press the trigger and now they come out with this airvalve gimmick on the airbrush. B) Which is it guys? :huh: Adjusting the regulator on the compressor is all you need, not some gimmick that helps sell these airbrushes. No offense Simon. ;) Mike No problem Mike. It is good to have a debate without... ;) Randy's comments are fair play too. - Simon.
  13. Hey Andrew: it is actually a great question. I do all my modelling in the garage where it gets pretty cold. Randy's explaination is spot on. And like he says humidity is the main factor for good results. As far as temperature goes, I have not had problems with acrylics or enamels in the 2-5 Deg C we are getting during British autumn/winter, but if it is colder than that ---- I ----- don't functions properly so I never find out if the paint will!!!
  14. No Mike: I know that you are a bit of an airbrush expert, but I paid $165 - so hardly over the odds, and the nib control gives you great detailed control over airpressure. You just set the compressor to high - so you always have the power there over continuous bursts and fine tune with the nib to get the minimum pressure neccessary for your paint and target. Easy and accurate to change pressures too. Anyways, HP-C or HP-CH are both brilliant airbrushes.
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