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Mark S.

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Everything posted by Mark S.

  1. Dervishd: You can measure air pressure both when the circuit is running and when it's off. I think that your regulator may not be calibrated. Either that or you don't have enough flow thru the regulator to hold the pressure. Do you have a tank or are you running directly from the compressor? The best is to just measure the pressure as close to the airbrush as you can get with a pressure gauge. Mark
  2. Mark S.

    ANG Eagles!

    Jake: Great shots!! Know if the decal guys would only get the hint. Mark
  3. I'll be there. I just don't know yet which day. Mark from the Youngstown area
  4. Mark S.

    B-52 HSAB

    Gentlemen: I see on the Great Models Website that Golden Dragon has released the B-52 Heavy Stores Adapter Beams for both the AMT an R-M B-52 kits. I've looked at the review sections of both HS and MM and can't dind any reviews. Has anyone bought these kits? If so, are they accurate and what is the casting quality like? Thanks in advance. Mark
  5. Eagledriver That 600 cfm is driven by the typical solvent load in the old days in the auto industry. The amount of solvent we modelers use is far less. 200 cfm should be adequate as it gives you about 14 air changes of the volume per minute. With an airbrush your not putting much into the air. Mark
  6. Gents: Here are a few pics of my attempts at resin kits and one vac kit. They are: Tacit Blue, Have Blue, and the RQ-4 Globalhawk. Mark
  7. QHoneyBorne If you can find fluorescent tubes with a wavelength at or above 6300 Angstroms. they closely match noon day sun. Additionally they are less expensive then color corrected full spectrum tubes. I've been using them in my photo area and paint area with good results. Mark
  8. Gents: Does anyone know who stocks this kit in the states? Mark
  9. I'd be interested in buying them as well. Mark
  10. Sounds like Mr. Surfacer is what we'd call a primer/surfacer in the auto industry. It works both as a primer and a surfacer. A Surfacer flows once it's been applied to create an overall paint thickness that is uniform throughout. Works great under basecoat-clearcoat finishes on vehicles. If someone is daring you might want to experiment with adding a surfactant to the surfacer. Surfactants reduce the suface tension of the material hence reducing overall thickness. My guess maybe a little dish detergent? Take a look at the car paint stores. You can find a lot of supplies for finishing
  11. I'm planning on building an early F-15A which was painted Air Superiority Blue. Back in the late 70's Polly S. had the color. I can't find any manufacturer with that color today. Does anyone know of a website or other source that lists tinting instructions to create colors not in the manufacturers lists? I'd prefer tinting for Testor's MM paints but any ideas will do. Thanks in advance.
  12. John: I'll take some pics this weekend time permitting and hopefully post them or e-mail them to you next week. Mark
  13. John: If your looking to do the X-47 in 1/72 scale then just go out and buy the Unicraft Kit. I built one last year and other than the normal resin issues it went together well. Unicraft has a bunch of UAV's and UCAV's. I have the X-45 complete, Goblahawk about 90% done and plan to start the DarkStar shortly. Mark PS: http://www.unicraftmodels.com
  14. Thanks All. I'm going to experiment on a test aircraft before trying it on the F-22. I like the idea of thinning down the paint an using as a tint. Murph I downloaded your pics when I saw them on ARC. Thanks I'll let you folks know how it works out and if possible post a pic. Mark
  15. Habu: Thanks for the reply. Yep it's not going to be easy. I though say taking the correct color grey in a paint line and adding it to the clear coat to tint the clear coat would work but I'm not sure. The other alternative is to take a sample of the colors to a do-it-yourself store and see if the guy behind the counter in paints would run it through the paint analyzer. Then use info and the clear colors in tamiya paint line to tint the clear coat. I'm not sure it would work but thought I'd ask to see if anyone had already done it. Mark PS I haven't forgot the .dwg files for you just
  16. I'd like to paint a F-22 Raptor but it seems that the paint has a metallic look to it. On a previous build I used 36176 and 32251 as directed. It looks good but doesn't match the photos. Has anyone tried painting a base coat of chrome silver and then applied tinted clear coats over top to try to match a semi-metallic finish? Similar to candy colors on cars. I use Testors MM but you can't tint their gloss coat which is a laquer with the colors from their MM line. Is there a paint line that uses the same base ie: enamel, laquer or arcrylic for both the colors and the clear coats?
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