steel_tiger1

Ok so after loads more research I discovered Lifecolor has the FS16515 in their line of paints. I hate acrylics but I can use it for color matching. So the plan now is to get some Scalecoat 2 black and white and mix it together to get the shade I need. Why Scalecoat, I feel that is the closest thing we have to Xtracolor. I like the way it sprays it goes down glossy just like Xtracolor. So results to follow. Thanks

Anyone use Humbrol #40 pale grey. Opinions? That is the color they are calling out on the wings in th Airfix kit. Thanks

Yeah even though it has been safe for years and years and years, now all of a sudden it could be used to blow up a plane. Give me a break. It's flippin model paint. Oh and checked my odd source today, no joy. Buy all you can find. I've got some Dunkelgelb to trade. :whistle:/>/>

Hmm I thought I had replied already. If this double posts sorry. I have been in contact with Roll Models as well as Hannat's directly. Roll Models doesn't have that color in stock. I did however buy most of the ones he did still have in stock. Hannat's says that they have not been able to restock any suppliers in the US due to the Royal Mail no longer taking paint for shipment. Nor can they ship it at all via Royal Mail. Hannat's has not been able to send Xtracolor to the states for over 18 months. So that makes finding it impossible although I have found some misc. tins here and there no Boe

I know this topic has been beat to death. Having acknowledged that however since Xtracolor is no longer available in the US, and Testors has discontinued Canadian Voodoo grey, what are people using to match those colors? Is there anything available right out of the bottle that is a close match? I have checked all brands and no one has FS16515 or any derivative of that in their paint line. Unless someone has some tins of Xtracolor they want to get rid of I need advice. As most of us that have been modeling for years usually have stocks of paint for our interests (I know I do) I haven't don

And finally a not so good thing to report. I had been doing some priming of some of the parts, and the afterburner section was part of that process. I usually use Floquil Primer through the old airbrush, but since I didn't have a proper spray booth since I moved, I have been using Tamiya Primer out of a rattle can. I have had awesome results using this stuff and since it is near a idiot proof primer (and somedays I am nearer that than not) I thought what the heck I'll use this. Well I got way to much on the exhaust ring trying to paint the inside of it. So it was too thick for my liking on the

Been awhile since I updated. I am a slow modeler, like I've said start your calendars. But I am making some progress. I have been working on all the components that need to be finished before I can close up the fuselage. I am nearing that point and will need time to start painting some things soon. I have purchased a new spray booth to help with that and now all I need is a small compressor with tank, waiting for Harbor Freight to have a sale again. First up are the door for the gun covers. In typical trumpeter fashion they are open, not my plan so they must be fit for closing. So I drilled o

Try the model railroad part of Microscale decals. There are a lot of sheets with those warning labels on them for the big GE locomotives. Also I believe the is a set for buildings as well that is just those kind of safety labels. Tom

I thought I would post a couple of pics of the aircraft I will be representing with this build. It's always nice to have pics of both sides. Thanks

It's a huge project especially since I really want to crack open a Tomcat. But I am exercising a huge amount of restraint as I have to finish this before breaking the seal on one of my big cats. Thanks Tom

Since you can measure my modeling progress by driving stakes in the ground I have an update. I have been working on the front office some, but have been concentrating on the area beneath the wind screen. I have looked at nearly every photo I can find both online and in books and couldn't get that perfect shot. You would think that with all the Huns around in museums and the two still flying I could find that elusive perfect shot. So I came up with what I think it may look like based on what I could find. I am sure I will find the photo just after I button it up, and won't be able to change it.

Anyone have pictures of the area behind the windscreen? I can find plenty of shots of the front of the HUD/ gunsight but the front part has eluded me so far. Thanks

Thanks for all the replies. Det1460 your comments seem to make sense, and my buddy was positive as he had to crawl up inside every preflight. Said there were a few times they tried to soak him from the rat hole. I guess a common prank for Hun crews. Thanks again.

Small update. I have dry fit the complete intake and engine/exhaust into the fuselage to see if I was satisfied with the length that I cut off of the Aires engine set. Turns out that I think it looks pretty close to the reference photo I found. From the nearest I can tell the afterburner section should protrude aprox. 8-10 scale inches from the rear end of the fuselage. I think its pretty close and will be satisfied with it for now. Next up Cockpit parts ready to work on. I think the biggest challenge will be to match the color Eduard chose for the cockpit. No way it is righ,t but I

Okay, I have another question regarding the Hun. What was the evolution of the intake as far as painted or not. My friend who was crew chief claims it was white. I can find no definitive photos to confirm his claim. All I can find is natural metal, painted silver or to dark to tell. Any help is appreciated. Thanks

So I really needed to get a handle on where I am at to know where to go. I took a few more pictures of my past progress. First up is the Master details engine improvement set. This replaces the stock fan hub that Trumpeter includes in the kit that is totally wrong. However I do not think any of it will be visible once the intake is applied. So the only saving grace is that I will know it's there. I assembled the engine section just as the directions indicate, with all the goofy etched parts. Since I will not be displaying the engine on the cart with the tail off I left off the additio

Thanks for the tip. I have to cut the exhaust section of the Aires set to make it work. I think I found a photo to work with finally, at least so I can SWAG it. I have started a build log in the in progress section. Thanks Tom

First up let me say this will be my very first build log ever. I am always inspired by the lets "kick it up a notch" builds that Chuck does. The photography is always awesome as well as the descriptions and tips. Two thing are my goals, build an awesome F-100 Super Sabre, and relearn how to use my way to complicated camera a Nikon D200. And if I can inspire someone or at least maintain your interest that will be a bonus. Please speak up if you see something that needs attended to along the way or is just plain crap and needs to be done over. I have thick skin so don't be bashful. I have so

I have been trying to find information on how far out the exhaust nozzle sticks out past the end of the airframe on ANG Super Sabres (f-102 exhaust). I have looked at 100's of photo and can't find that perfect shot. I want a dead on side view of where the engine exits the fuselage. I have found plenty of shots showing the nozzle and close ups. But need to know how far out it is. I am working on the 1/32 Trumpeter kit with the Aires exhaust & Master Details burner can & exhaust nozzle. If built as described the exhaust nozzle would be partially inside the airframe, which is inc

I echo the above, I will wait to order til you are more caught up. Prayers for your daughter.

Make it scale.

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I keep three loaded at all times, one with each of the grits I normally use.

I prefer one of these. Makes the job much quicker. Was $75 on sale at sears. http://www.tedharris.com/shoptour_06_bandsaw.htm

Just by the sprue shots it is not a scaled down version of the 1/32 kit. The fuse is completely different. There are no large sections at all on the 1/32 one. It builds up in sections.