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Air-Craft

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About Air-Craft

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    Jet Bomber Fan
  • Birthday 11/27/1969

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    http://www.air-craft.net

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    Male
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    Scotland
  1. Good read on an awesome aircraft - thanks for posting!
  2. Another thing to be conscious about is what you are wearing when painting - woolly / fibrous clothing, particularly tops / jumpers can retain quite a bit of dust'n'stuff that will see your model & jump on it, so try to avoid these. You don't have to go to the length of a Tyvek suit, but it's worth knowing.
  3. Try to avoid draughty or "high traffic" areas for spraying & just prior to starting to paint give the room / area a quick misting of water from a trigger spray bottle (into the air as you would with an air freshener). As the spray drops down though the air, it will capture quite a bit of the dust that's naturally floating about. When you've finished painting, place a "lid" like a Tupperware container or the likes over you work to avoid further contamination when drying.
  4. Have OKI not been marketing white toner printers for some time now (4>5 years)?
  5. A slightly better copy of the image (no further info from the site it came from though);
  6. That sounds a pretty reasonable price to be honest - paint chips have never been cheap.
  7. This can happen if the nozzle isn't fully screwed into it's seal (don't over tighten though!!)as the conical nozzle will protrude too far into the nozzle cap, narrowing the air outlet. Or as has been suggested, if the wrong nozzle has been supplied. The Neo CN's nozzle part number is 0801 - if the 0.5mm nozzle (0802) has been supplied it will virtually fill the nozzle cap orifice & consequently partially or completely block the airflow....
  8. Bill, It's pretty hard to say if the leakage is of any real concern - as said it's common for freshly filled units to expel some oil until the optimum level is found, after which is should become negligible / non existent, if cylinder wear / scoring are the cause however, the leakage will continue.... Generally speaking oil level at just below the centre of the sight bubble is ideal. The thermal switch should be sitting against the motor casing without an air gap. The regulator in the image looks like a standard bleed regulator & turning the knob should only open / close the bleed port to allow X to the outlet port & Y to be vented, although it may also have some form of overpressure protection - I would strip it, clean & lightly lubricate it (white grease or similar) & see how you get on.
  9. The thermal protection switch doesn't adhere to the duty cycle & is there to prevent motor from cooking rather than being a normal part of the compressors operation & I imagine that the compressor would easily pass the duty cycle before the thermal protection switch would cut the motor out. I've never seen the manual for the non-auto models, but imagine that it may have more clearly stated instructions regards 15on/15off. If you still have doubts on the thermal protection switch, its located inside the connector box at the rear of the motor casing / sump. I think models of this vintage rely on the plastic connector box cover to hold the switch against the motor casing & that a damaged (they can become brittle) plastic cover can prevent the switch from being held against the case, which in turn can prevent the switch from reacting at the correct temperature.
  10. 99.9% certain that its a rebranded Sil-Air compressor, its an older model but is very similar to the current Sil-Air 15 Export. Any manual for the Sil-Air 15 Export from that era (20 years ago plus), or any of the similar rebranded units like Aztek, Rotring or Revell should be fine. Regards oil in the output, if the unit has recently been serviced / refilled, it's common for oil to be pumped through the compressor until the oil reaches the idea level in the motor housing, after which the problem should become minimal / non existent. Unfortunately if the head has become worn or the bore scored leakage / bypass may persist... I only have a manual for the later automatic models, but with the exception of the pressure control unit, the auto / manual models are largely similar. There is little information on the motor itself in the manual, only replaceable external parts being detailed (Chassis P24, Motor P43); Sil-Air Manual
  11. Mr Hobby Aqueous - similar in usage / quality to Tamiya, but a far wider colour coverage.
  12. I've got a Mr Airbrush Custom 0.18 as pictured above by G_Marcat_Italy, design & quality are typical of Japanese airbrush products, so it's a pretty good airbrush. I don't believe that the GSI Custom 0.18 uses the matched head "system" of the CM's though.
  13. I'm not sure if this is specifically for filling or painting, but for painting I've has some success using quick drying flat acrylics like Tamiya XF-2 through an airbrush (double action); Trigger for air, start spraying a low / small volume of paint & work around the area until it starts to become wet, then back off the paint but keep the air flowing, moving around to surface dry the wet paint, the wet paint will surface dry pretty quickly with the air flow & you can start triggering paint again. It takes a little bit of patience & some finger control, but allows the job to get done in one go (basically keep the air on & trigger paint as required). The same method works well in any awkward, confined area where you risk getting runs while trying to get decent coverage (stuff like deep narrow landing gear bays).
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